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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/26/2018 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Hey everyone! I finished this piece a few days ago, so I took some photos and thought I would share! This began as a small billet for a demo at NESM for their annual hammer in, and upon finishing the blade a client signed onto the project, so I designed the hilt and we went from there! I still have to make the sheath, and when it's done I'll update this thread. The blade is seven bars of pattern weld, wrought iron on the spine, four twisted bars, more wrought iron, and then an edge of ~400 layers. The handle is moose antler, bog oak, silver, wrought iron, and rubies. I guess I'll do the usual and post a few finished photos and then a WIP! WIP time! So this piece started off as a billet about 8 inches long. I twisted everything extremely tight and laid up the wrought iron and edge bar. I tacked the billet on one end and brought it to Maine with me. I was invited to demonstrate on both days, and first gave a lecture on the historical seax and then did a practical demo the next day, forging a long seax. I then brought the blade to Zack Jonas' workshop a while after it was finished and began to work out what the design should be. Drawing from a few different artifacts I designed something that intrigued me. I used a few drill bits and a set of needle rasps to get the bolster fit properly. Here you can see the fit bolster next to the sawn bog oak and the drawing I made for the client. I used the needle rasps to file and clean up the slot for the tang to seat in the wood properly which is a new trick, I promptly went and bought my own set after! That's as far as I got at Zack's, and upon returning home I began to shape the handle. I always do my rough shaping on the belt grinder to establish the lines I am after and then use files or sandpaper to refine the shape. In this case I am going for a slight hourglass shape and need to do some careful firework to establish my lines. After about an hour the work is done and I can polish to about 400 grit in preparation for the rest of the detailing. At this point I figured I would set the half moon shape on the bolster as per my design. I did this freehand on the grinder and then polished with some paper on a flat surface. Here you can see there is a slight inletting in the edge side of the bolster to allow the blade to sit better. I used a jewelers saw to begin the cuts for the silver wire and then a series of files and rasps to make the recess for the wire. After some epoxy and a few wracked nerves the silver is in place. I couldn't remember what size bezel wire I had used in the past on the amber seax, but I did some experimenting and figured it out. Here's the piece next to the scaled up drawing I made to keep with me as I was working. I think I'll start doing this more in the future. I cut out the piece of fine silver and annealed it, then bent it to shape on the back end of the bog oak grip, and because it was so soft it readily accepted its new shape. I took some nice wrought iron I had and cut a small coupon off and drilled and filed a hole to fit it to the tang. My original thought was to make the pommel just a cap and not be held on by the tang, but Peter convinced me I should weld an extension to the tang and peen the pommel on. Here I am using sharpie to get a vague idea of where I should grind to. I never really do this sort of work with a caliper and exact measurements, instead using my eye to get things close. I may change this some day and do more exact work, but for the style of work I do I feel that this gives my work a more 'organic' nature. I roughed in the shape on the grinder and then drilled my holes. I probably would change the order of operations next time. Once the pommel was roughly fit I began to tune the shape with files. Eventually I ended up with this. I began to peen the bezels in place from the inside to hold them properly. I did all of the setting work before attaching to the handle so I could burnish all the way around easily. Once the rubies were set I peened the whole thing together after administering some epoxy. Here you can see the peen isn't cleaned up yet. After some careful belt grinding and 2000 grit paper to clean the peen up, I went out back behind the shop to take some photos! I hope that's helpful or at least informative, thanks for looking guys!
  2. 10 points
    I apologize again for my relative absence, I try to remember to post here but since I know so many of you outside the forum now, I tend to forget I'm sure many of you have already read this and seen the pictures, but for my friends here who aren't on Facebook or Instagram, here you go I've taken the time to focus on improving my knowledge and skills this past month of September, trying to achieve some things I've never been able to do before. This started by spending an entire week in New Hampshire at Zack Jonas's shop as a student of the one and only Peter Johnsson. That week, I took a sip of knowledge from a fire hydrant of information. Peter was an insanely great teacher and was able to get some valuable ideas through even my thick skull, and I got to experience some things that will stick with me for the rest of my career, such as handling 2000+ year old swords, knives, and scabbards, staying up at night having philosophical discussions around a fire... This has all been tied up into a bow with the completion of this sword. It's a British style middle La Tène era sword I've named Epona, after the Celtic goddess of horses, who undoubtedly would have been important to warfare and calvary. It's a happy coincidence that I chose the British style, since through a convoluted string of events, I recently discovered that pretty much all of my heritage comes from the British isles. The blade is a lenticular cross section pattern welded blade, made from a mix of high carbon steel and old wrought iron in the core, and high layer Damascus edges forge welded to the softer core. The hilt is made from ancient bog oak graciously given to me by my good friends Dave Delagardelle and Tony Greenly, and the spacers are bronze in a stacked construction, just like the ancient British swords. During the finishing phase of this project, I spent about as much time wearing an optiviser as I spent without one. I put more skill and attention to detail into this piece than I have on anything I've ever made, and I feel that it marks a new era in the quality of my work. Thanks for reading everyone! If you've read this far, thanks a lot! Let me know if you've got any questions, critiques, comments, etc!
  3. 9 points
    I've been working on a pipe tomahawk head and finished up the filing on Sunday. After taking the last few strokes with a 3" needle file, and seeing the 16" mill bastard next to it, I thought it would be of interest to some to see the results of drawfiling the way I do, the end result, and every single file I used on the project. First, drawfiling. For hawk heads, there's really not a good way to finish them totally on the grinder because of all the odd curves and stepped lines. Well, maybe if I had a small wheel attachment, but not as I am currently set up. I forge to shape, remove the scale and rough profile with an angle grinder, then use the belt grinder to rough in the surfaces, although it's not strictly necessary. Once the scale is gone you can jump straight to filing, I made hawks that way for eight years before I got the belt grinder. Once I have it as flat as it's gonna be on the belt grinder (36, 60, and 80 grit zirconia followed by A300, A160, A65, and A45 trizact), it's time to drawfile. I start with the 16" mill bastard, which immediately shows where the belt grinder did not make it truly flat. Then to the 12" mill bastard, then on to the six-inchers. Mill bastard, Mill 2nd cut, then mill smooth. After the last strokes with the 6" mill smooth, it's ready for 220-grit paper. I originally took this picture to show the carbon migration from the 1084 edge steel to the wrought iron body, but then I realized I had never posted a picture of a properly drawfiled surface. There are still a couple of 36-grit scratches on the edge steel, but that will be ground away after heat treat. Yes, this is not yet hardened. Also, I should mention if you don't have a belt grinder you can do the entire thing with files. Just takes a little longer. Next, here is the result of all the filing, both draw and push. See what I mean about things you can't do with a belt grinder? Every last bit of surface you see is the result of filing. There was a lathe involved in creating the bowl, but files were used on the bowl while it was in the lathe chuck as well. Note this is as-filed, it has not been sandpapered yet. Well, the molding between eye and blade has been cleaned up with a 1/2" sanding drum for a Dremel, but that's it. Finally, the files used in making this hawk: From the left, we have the 16" mill bastard with one edge ground safe (heavy stock removal and rapid drawfileing), the 1/4" chainsaw (setting some of the curves on the lathe), a 14" long-angle lathe file (fast stock removal push-filing, tends to leave a smoother surface than the 16" mill) 12" round file (lathe work), 12" mill bastard for intermediate smoothing, 8" half-round for setting the transition from eye to blade and shaping that little step on the bottom, the three six-inch mill files (bastard with safe edge, 2nd cut, and smooth), two 6" three-squares, one slim and one XX-slim with a safe edge (these were used to make the grooves and clean up the inside corners on the bowl), and finally, the 3" round needle file that was used to clean up the grooves. The 16" is the workhorse of the family. Used as a push file it cut the shoulders on the transition and the V on the eye. As a draw file it flattened and blended the blade. The long-angle lathe file has two safe edges (meant to be used on the lathe, it won't mar the chuck). The round file and big chainsaw file clean up my sloppy lathework on the neck of the bowl. The other bastard files are just used to clean up after the one before. The three-square XX-slim with one face ground smooth can cut dovetails, but it also acts like a knife to cut very sharp straight lines for the grooves. The slim three-square follows those lines to widen and deepen the cut, and the needle file removes the coarser marks of the bigger files. And that's only about a quarter of my file collection...
  4. 8 points
  5. 8 points
    Hello: Here is this last week's work..One worked and the others are what I call a pattern fail.. well.. as I have said before..experience is what you get when you don't get what you want so...while they turned out OK as a knife in general they are not what I wanted... Materials are 1095/L-6 and a small amount of meteoric iron.. Now the one that worked was the one I was sure wouldn't..that is the wavy feather pattern..THAT one did work and I think it came out pretty spiffy..I just wish I could make a longer piece cause a full length sword in this pattern would be totally unreal..It was a real PITA doing this pattern and I think I found a way that isn't so nerve wracking...More on this later once I work it out and get things sorted.. Hope these pics work.. This old man is back to work... JPH
  6. 8 points
    Ok, I'm too excited about this to not share it. I'm working on my second attempt at mosaic pattern, and just got my first glimpse of the pattern. I'm kind of bouncing up and down like a kid at Christmas right now...
  7. 8 points
    At long last . . . Here are the AF 2016 demo videos. Huge thanks to Michael Bergstrom of WildDog Creative who volunteered all the labor, equipment, and massive editing it took to put these together! Michael's a member of the forum and is making some pretty nice swords of his own lately. Enjoy guys! Dave
  8. 8 points
    Hello: Finally something interesting and funny on this end..a while back (several years) a friend of mine's son was joining the US Army so I made him a rr spike knife when he graduated AIT..He carried it for many years and used the beegeezus out of it... No complaints at all...until now I was just notified that the blade has been pretty much destroyed when so Yahoo tank driver drove his M-1 Abrams over his gear and well..it seems that the knife..in one last act of defiance somehow got up into the tread between tread section and the blade was pretty much peined over 90 degrees..( it did not break..) causing the tread to jam and pretty much disabling the tank.. The odds of this happening must be astronomical.. a $45.00 knife takes out a 4.3 million dollar piece of equipment.. I am trying to get a copy of the maintenance report ..Believe me I will use it on my website... Needless to say I sent him another rr spike knife.. Buck has their bolt cutting..Cold Steel has their chop socky/slicey videos..Amateurs!! How many makers can say that one of their knives can stop a tank..in a combat zone none the less?? NONE!! And folks say that RR spikes don't make good knives... Well all I can say is -- Take that!! This news came at just the right time as I needed a major "pick me up" with all that has been going on here.. Thought I would share some good news for a change... I got a real chuckle out of this and I think ya all will as well... JP (Tank Bane) H
  9. 8 points
    Little broke back, wrought and 1075, nickle silver and white tail antler Sword with bloom iron core, 1075 edge, bog oak and copper inlay fittings Wolfs tooth seax, wrought, 1075 edge, brass and maple burl Tiny tiny knife. Micro twist spine of 1075 and 15n20, serpent of mild and wrought, edge of 1075, copper and maple burl Large seax is 1095 ans 15n20 made by my friend and i handled it Serpent seax Little broke back pweld with antler and bogoak
  10. 7 points
    Hey everyone! Recently I've had the opportunity to do some work with Hurswtic near Worcester MA. They had an interest in iron making to explore Viking Age arms in a slightly more in depth way, and as soon as I found out I was very keen to be a part of it. We did a smelt recently that made 16lbs of iron which I cut and forged into small biscuits that we were then able to remelt. I have learned a huge amount from friends both on and off this forum who have stoked my interest in learning and experimenting with this process. Without that I would be more lost than I am now! Here is a link to some of the write up on Viking Age iron done by Hurstwic: http://www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/bog_iron.htm And the video that Bill shot and edited together of a presentation I did with them to teach how to create hearth steel from iron. Hope you guys enjoy!
  11. 7 points
    Dear All, These Anglo Saxon inspired seaxes are finally finished for my wedding two months hence! Some of the WIP (before I broke my camera and had to push onwards) is on this thread: Enjoy! Comments and Criticism gratefully received. I have learnt a heck of a lot on this build, if I were to be making just one I am sure I could have done a much better job of it. However, since there were ten.... yes ten.... with a definite deadline I struggled to spend the extra hundred hours on the sheath required per piece! All in all, I'm happy with them and I'm sure their new owners will be too. A huge amount of thanks must go to Sam Ecroyd, without whom this would not have been possible! Cheers, James P.S. Sorry about the bits of stuff on the blades, didn't realise there was dust on them until I was editing!
  12. 7 points
    Just finishing this one up. 10 3/4" blade of 1095, carved burr elm handle with copper mounts, tooled leather sheath with copper fittings: let me know what you think...
  13. 7 points
    Scythians were dominated by a zoomorphic motif, anthropomorphic and geometrical in Celts. As in the Scythians, the most common representations are images of mythical animals, such as Celtic circles, circles and wavy lines. Circle, sphere, etc as a symbol of the life cycle .... etc ... Long spear with a ball, period of La Tene, Germany. Length 50 cm,widest point 3.7 cm, hole 2.1 cm, weight 430 grams. An asymmetrical spear, period of La Tene, France. The length of 37.5 cm,widest point is 4.6 cm, hole 2,3,cm,weight 390 gram. Long knife, Hiebmesser, period of La Tene, Germany. Length 45 cm, widest point 4.5 cm, weight 440 gram. Shorter, engraved knife, type Durrnberg (in german language Ringknaufmesser) period of La Tene, Germany. Length 38 cm,widest point 3.7 cm, weight 310 gram.
  14. 7 points
    Hi, I leave you some photos of a little guy ready to open packages. It is made of 1095 steel with red heart wood handles and brass pins. The sheath is made with kydex and leather.
  15. 7 points
    This is mostly what I've been up to of late. I do still love making daggers, fighter, hunters and folders but the Instagram market has been snapping kitchen knives up this year! I like kitchen knives, because I like to cook and have done so a lot, because of the challenge inherent in these particularly performance-first knives, and because of the large canvas they often afford for the pattern welder! Sorry for the few lower quality pics... sometimes you already have it sold, and only have time for a quick snap before shipping... And that's all I've got for now!
  16. 7 points
    Here is the result of about a year and a half of practice. I will not claim to be Sami, or even that this is a Sami knife. But a couple years ago I saw some of the beautiful work done by Sami Craftsman and decided I wanted to learn how to do it. This proved to not be an easy task. First, there is very little information out there on the process. Second, there seems to be a lot of misinformation out there. Third, most people I showed pictures of the knives to couldn't figure out why I liked them as much as I did. But... for some reason I am obsessed. I started following the few makers on Instagram I could find. I studied every post they made for clues. I asked questions and practiced. I found a couple WIP walk throughs and they helped a lot. I tried elk bone, mule deer antler, White tail antler, and Elk antler. I started cold calling reindeer farms for reindeer antler. I made multiple different engraving tools and failed many times before I found what I liked, and I'm thinking about changing it again. When I got to the sheath I spent hours trying to figure out what kind of leather to use, and subsequently the people at the local Tandy leather store thought I was nuts. But I finally found a place in Sweden that knew exactly what I wanted and shipped it pretty reasonably. Here is the result. My 13th knife. My first "Sami influenced" knife. It is a conglomeration of many experiments. It turned out quite fancy for my tastes and I think the next one will be more geometric, but for some reason I wanted to challenge myself with curves. 1075 blade, hand forged. White tail antler and cocobolo for the knife handle. hidden tang construction with threaded tang and holding nut with overlying wood inlay. sheath is leather and scrap walnut. Without further ado: Some in process Pictures: Some of my practice progress over the last year. You can follow along from left to right with some examples of my engraving attempts and also my progression of different engraving blades. I hope this isn't to many pictures. I visit this forum daily. I'm a pretty quiet person in general, and I do not post often because I don't feel I have much to add, but I wanted to let you know how much I appreciate this forum. The level of craftsmanship on this site are inspiring and you all have taught me a tremendous amount. Let me know your thoughts. As always, critique is much appreciated. When you stare at something for so long the eye gets biased... That and all the little mistakes become glaringly obvious. Adam
  17. 7 points
    I finally finished my first viking sword that I made all-by-myself. The big challenge on this one is that wide shallow fuller - I've never done that before and it looks difficult to get right. Here's the sword blank (1075 steel) with the bevels forged in. I shaped the initial blank with the power hammer, and then hand forged the tip and the bevels. I didn't take a picture, but the bevels are forged in with a spring tool whose dies are radiused to 6". Here's the result: Slightly crooked, but it gets a lot of the steel to the right areas and significantly widened the blade. It also made it about an inch longer. I did run the fuller all the way back through the tang. One of the biggest challenges on any sword is getting it straight in all dimensions. Here's how I start to establish a straight edge - marking fluid and a scribed straight line down the edge. It will move during the hardening process, but it's much easier to get back to straight when that's where you started. Doing it this way also means that I don't have to rely on the sword sitting flat on a surface. The fuller being straight struck me as the biggest challenge of the blade, so I made this contraption to grind the fuller straight: It's essentially a really big work rest (with legs) and a sled to hold the blade level as I move it. It worked very well for the rough grinding of the fuller. It got it nice and straight. After that all the grinding was done by hand. Not ruining the nice straight fuller is much easier (but not easy) than trying to establish one by hand. The wooden sled is a prototype and I learned a couple important things from it. First, make it metal as I set it on fire during the grinding. Second, without some kind if repeatable indexing for holding the blade you can never get the blade back in the same position again, so make a better sled or do all the grinding you can the first time. And yes, that's a 6" wheel on the grinder. The finished blade was pretty much straight. The sides of the fuller are a bit wobbly because that line can't directly be made straight - it's created by the interplay of the fuller and the bevels and is affected by the thickness of both. All you can do is make both as straight in all dimensions as possible and then do some cheat grinding where you didn't get it quite right. The guards and pommel are carved from wax. I modeled them after an original that I think is in the Swedish National Museum (but I could be wrong). I get the overall shape completed and fit them to the blade before I start decorative carving. That way if I blow some fundamental dimension or the fit, I haven't ruined lots of hours of carving. Skipping over a whole lotta work, here's the final product: The blade is 28" (711mm) long and the sword is 34" (863mm) overall. It weigh 2lbs 13oz (1146g). The handle is stabilized cherry burl, and the fittings are all bronze (90% Cu, 10% Sn) I'm fairly happy with it. I'm going to make the next blade a touch thinner as this one has a little more forward weight than I personally like. But then again another smith who held it said it was the first sword he really like because of that slight forward weight. It does let you know exactly what it's for - cleaving.
  18. 6 points
    Here's my latest Bowie with the escutcheons added. I think that they work well with the mastodon ivory on this one. This one will be on my table in Little Rock next month.
  19. 6 points
    The blade for this Bowie is made from 1080 high carbon steel, blade length is 256mm, blade width is 42mm and blade thickness on the spine is 6mm. The blade has been differentially hardened with the surface finished with a hand rubbed 600 grit finish. The overall length of the knife is 404mm including the pommel nut. There are three coined nickel silver spacers, two either side of the gun blued bolster which has one central groove. The gun blued D, Lisch style split ring guard has two clam shells and vine file work on either side of the hand guard tine. The Sambar stag handle has been dyed with Fiebings mahogany brown leather dye and sealed with Danish oil. The butt cap is gun blued steel, filed to match the flutes on the stag and has a planished top surface and is held in place with a gun blued pommel nut.The leather sheath is a Mexican belt loop style with tooled edges, dyed golden brown, the body of the sheath has a front panel of python skin surrounded by a black tooled leather frame.Thank you for taking the time to look gents, as ever all comments and critique very welcome.Steve [u
  20. 6 points
    If you've watched all of the episodes then you have watched numerous master smiths be eliminated in the first round. That should answer your question.
  21. 6 points
    I couldn't find a forum for this, so since I'm a beginner, I put it here: Got a dog from the blacksmith down the road.When I took him home the other day he made a bolt for the door.
  22. 6 points
    The manager of my local bar is moving to Oz, and the staff asked if I had anything part finished that I could personalise for him. This is a blade i made a couple of months back to fit a handle that hadn't worked for the blade it was originally intended, which is kind of fitting as the staff of this place are like a makeshift family of waifs and strays (which is what they call their Christmas dinner every year...). The blade is clay hardened 1095, and the handle is bubinga with a buffalo horn bolster and copper accents. The inlaid copper runes on the spine read 'Old Inn', and I was tickled by the All Father hiding within them, and there is a bind rune for the managers name on the butt. Anyway, pics: let me know what you think...
  23. 6 points
    Hi, so I finally finished this one. Many thanks to everyone who offered their advice. So my intention was a fusion of a western fighting knife with Japanese style. Obviously I'm not the first to try it, I certainly won't be the last. I wish I could have done fullers but they were beyond my current skill level. Unfortunately this blade was my second attempt and I have a very similar one with horriibly uneven fullers. Blade is 9" of W2, sharp coming and going. Blued damascus fittings, and curly maple handle. I know the cord isnt traditional, and the knots aren't correct. If any one knows the correct knots for a handle were wrap doesn't pass under handle please let me know. Thanks for looking.
  24. 6 points
    Doug Ritter & Knife Rights is holding their annual auction with the proceeds going toward lobbying against anti-knife legislation in Washington. This Schively inspired Bowie is my donation to the cause and will go to one of the bidders: https://kniferights.org/ultimatesteel/2018-ultimate-steel/
  25. 6 points
    So here it is, just as the title stated. This started off as a cutoff from a mosaic billet I am working on(which will be done sometimes next decade), and I had enough steel to forge out a knife, and this is that knife. Low layer high contrast paired with a crazy burl. The billet is 44 layers that was forged on the bias for some crushed W's, forged into a bar, and then forged on the bias again into another bar. How this is the result is beyond me. Anyhow, the steel is 1080 and 15n20, the guard is bronze and g10, and the handle is stabilized dyed Box Elder burl. The Blade Length is 4.75" and the OAL is 9.75" Thanks!
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