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  1. “Far over the misty mountains cold, To dungeons deep and caverns old, We must away, Ere break of day, To claim our long forgotten Gold the latest Seax by Myself and Petr Florianek... My blade but Petr has surpassed himself with the blade carving , handle and sheath ...My fave to date. hope you like it. [
    16 points
  2. I have been working on the idea of this for a while...patternwelded inlay(ish) ...this is patternweld with sterling silver spacers and inlay/
    14 points
  3. This is lhe latest colaberation knife made by myself and Petr Florianek. Inspired by saxon swords the 11" blade and handle are made by me and the carving and Sterling silver handle ornamentation is by Petr. going for the bling bling! Hope you like it.
    14 points
  4. Forging the Blade The raw material for this blade spent most of the last century on a former homestead. A large portion of the steel was used for another blade, this was the piece cut from half of the left side. Slowly drying the clay for yaki-ire over the embers in the charcoal forge. After yaki-ire, an #80 grit Sun Tiger stone reveals the approximate hamon as the geometry is set. Habaki Habaki forged to shape in preparation for silver soldering in the charcoal forge. The habaki is textured with files and patinated using a blend of copper salts sim
    14 points
  5. hi everyone! Alright, so I'm spending somewhat of an eternity working on the sheath of this thing - so I've decided to post at least half of the thing... the knife itself. Let me present - Draumr Gripnir - the "Dream Grip" - with some unintended fingermarks and all! Blade in two bars of folded and twisted railroad steel, with a third bar (edge) of 15n20 and ferrier's rasps. Handle i copper, brass, camel bone and vulcanized fiber. The runes engraved in the brass reads "keep your blade sharp, but your mind sharper". The nut on the
    13 points
  6. Blade: 1080 & 15N20 Handle: cocobolo Fittings: 416
    13 points
  7. All: It's been about two years since the death of my father. He died unexpectedly and suddenly. Him and I were working on our jointly owned boat in Cordova, Ak and he got a stomach ache. A few days later he was diagnosed with stage 4 Pancreatic Cancer. Ten days later he died. We had a few days to say goodbye. The very last beer I shared with my Dad was sitting on the flying bridge of his Boat in what was going to be his retirement home in Florida. I asked him what he wanted done at his funeral. In my Dad's characteristic humor he said he wanted me to build a Viking shi
    13 points
  8. First go at one if these, just too cool not to try. had some issues that were mostly as a result of rushing or not paying attention but I’m happy with it over all. Would like to make another with some twists and stuff. Inlay on the socket would be cool too but I only have so much patience! wrought socket and core, wrought and mild teeth, en42j and 15N20 edge.
    12 points
  9. It only took 5-6 years. The blade is a two-core interrupted twist. The handle is sea cow bone, the fittings are about 2lbs of silver with niello inlay, and there are two opals set into the sheath, which is the same from front to back. The stand is black walnut.
    12 points
  10. Hi all! After a long time I signed there because I made new knife which is available. It is small knife overall lenght is 22,5 cm, blade 10 cm and handle 12,5. Welded blade is forged from old, broken springs of agriculture machine and from the bearings. These springs I found unders old oaks on Kovalovec meadows. Guard is from patinated bronze and on handle is small patch of cow bone, which I found on the way to the Skalica hills. Last part I bought from my friend and it is Palisander Honduras burl wood. Hand sewn scandinavian type sheath with leather inserts in the b
    12 points
  11. Finished another folder. Little bitty bugger, 2.5" / 63mm closed, 4.5" / 112mm open. O-1, brass liners, nickel silver bolsters and pins, ebony scales. Still needs an edge and some cleanup, but it's assembled.
    11 points
  12. Hello everyone, The last month or so I have been working on a Damascus hunting knife with a stabilized beech handle. Since I am taking pictures for my Instagram account anyway, I figured it would be nice to post this on the ‘’old fashioned’’ forums as well. For this hunting knife I am going for a more traditional design than I would normally do, this is a ‘’simple’’ drop point hunter with a guard and hopefully a takedown handle. On this knife I really want to focus on my fit and finish, normally one of my weaker points in knifemaking. As I normally make historic
    11 points
  13. Just finished this up. I'll try and get proper pics and say more about it at the weekend, but It's 1075+Cr, bogoak, steel, copper and silver: let me know what you think...
    11 points
  14. Finished this just this afternoon. Haven't put an edge on it yet, but just couldn't wait to show it off! Time for critiques.
    11 points
  15. 1080/ 15N20 crushed W's eyed with Stainless fittings and maroon micarta scales.
    10 points
  16. Howdy, folks. Been a busy, productive year, and not as much time has been spent on forums as I used to. But I have had a couple of interesting projects I wanted to share. They are the two largest carcass splitters I've made so far, one completed in February and one in August. The first was a commission from a chef who owns multiple restaurants who wanted as large a carcass splitter as I could make as a gift for a friend of his. The second was a commission from a fellow who butchers a lot of hogs. Both started out as bars of 5/16" x 4" 80CrV2 steel, and both ended up with hemp cord ov
    10 points
  17. Antiquity and Early Middle Ages, axes. Four of the engravings are forged from old-welded iron.
    10 points
  18. Finished this today. 10.5 inch blade forged from a 7 layer billet of bandsaw blade, horseshoe rasp and center core of chainsaw bar that hardened nicely. Guard is a scrap of 300 layer, spacer blade material, and buttcap an endcut from a radial pattern billet I made forever ago. Handle African blackwood. Through tang construction with a nut welded underside the buttcap to squeeze it all together. Had to try fullers after seeing Jason Knight grind them into an apocalypse tanto in one of his recent youtube videos. Thanks for looking, Clint
    10 points
  19. I'm on day 27 of not leaving my property. Thank god I've got a blade project to putter with. Here is a blade I just finished grinding/etching. I started it up in Alaska last Summer and mailed it down to FL for the post heat treat work. Standard 1095/15n20 mix. Twisted crushed W's make up the alternating bars under the fuller. Edge bar is a san-mai type w/ a 1000 layer core and 200 layer wrapping. Some highlight stripes between the bars. More when the fittings and grip are applied. I'm not going to rush, however. It's the only blade I have to work on, so o
    10 points
  20. I have made a few of these recently with riveted pivots but getting the action right is very tricky, so I have used a threaded pivot pin and nylon washers which has made a world of difference. Smooth as silk now. The blade is approx 3" and about 6 1/2" overall.
    10 points
  21. All Finished I decided against copper spacers. I call this one "Smoke and Mirrors" I made it for my wife for Easter.
    10 points
  22. Hello: Here is the first sword I finished in 2020...The blade is 1070..the Hamon.. well, I dunno what to call it... Togari Gunome maybe?? finished with temple lion motif fittings from my art foundry guys in Taiwan..They do a great job..yes they do!! Much better than an old ham handed reprobate like I could do..... Black samegawa under that black and gold Chevron Tsuka-ito that I adore.. This is another proto for book IV which is coming along splendidly even if I do say so myself.. The siya is black lacquer that I dripped/ "flicked" Testors model airplane paint (m
    10 points
  23. I wanted to make a very traditional folder, something as traditional as quaffing mead, boar hunting, getting into a long boat and raiding the coastlines of Europe. So I designed and made a pocket seax. This is the second one, the first had the thicker, more rounded handle of a fixed blade seax, so I decided to trim the handle down while retaining a bit of a rise towards the end. This one is 4" long from bolster to the end of the lanyard loop. I am thinking of doing a smaller, 3 1/2" version as well. SAE1070 blade and spring, Brass bolsters and liners, p
    10 points
  24. Hi guys, Today I decided to forge the pommel. Back to my scrap heap for inspiration. I made a slot punch from an old rasp and cut the end off of a dumbbell bar for the pommel. This was also a bit more work than I thought but I am happy with it as it sits roughed in. Still got to fine tune the Tang fit and then to decide on handle material and shape.
    9 points
  25. Hi All This knife was made for a presentation unfortunately due to Covid it was postponed to a later date. It had to have a New Zealand flavour The handle is made from New Zealand Native Pohutukawa and fittings are made from sterling silver and coin bronze, (NZ one and two cents coins) The pommel is set with a New Zealand Greenstone The total length of the knife is, 27.5 cm. the blade measures 14 cm.
    9 points
  26. This type of blade construction was rather common in early medieval in central and northern Europe during Viking age. The blade consists of three parts: high carbon steel on the cutting edge, a twisted pattern-welded bar in the middle, and a simple pattern-welded bar on the back of the knife. To forge it I used a scrap metal (as usual in my projects) but this time the scrap metal was very special. I used old bloomery iron and wrought iron nails/bolts/rivets which were found in the Dziwna River in Wolin in the place of the old shipyard/harbor during the building of the new marina (Wolin is
    9 points
  27. Hi all, I have just joined here but been reading and browsing for quite a while. I've been making knives for around half a year now, with this being number ten (and eleven), but this is my first big one that isn't a simple little eating knife so wanted to share. This is 15th/16th century German style Bauernwehr, I say style as it is not copied from anything in particular and i'm sure there will be something i have not done quite right, but I hope it looks the part. I have done this as a three piece set in the manner of medieval hunting sets, so there is a little byknife and pricker
    9 points
  28. Hello everyone !!! I hope they are well and are taking care of these difficult times. I want to show you this 17th century Spanish style rapier with an iron cup garnish, decorated with a mixed technique, engraved with pneumatic airgraver and opus interrasile (openwork work) with foliar motifs. It has a thin and straight blade, forged style, made of 5160 steel, two-sided, with two edges throughout. Wooden scabbard lined in black velvet with curb and brass tip. Total weight 900 grs Blade length 100 centimeters from the cup. 6.5mm at the fort and drops to 3m at the tip. the total length 117 Cen
    9 points
  29. I recently completed this as a retirement gift for the president of the company that I work for. 21 layers of 1084/15n20, 6.25" blade, black walnut handle w/ African blackwood spacer and mild steel fittings. He told me that whatever I made him would end up in his showcase that he has in his trophy room. Given the caliber of knives that he has in that showcase already, it really pushed me to get outside of my comfort zone with this build and take on things that I had never tried before.
    9 points
  30. Blade: W1 Spinal Wrap: Damascus Handle: Desert Ironwood w/ Fossil Walrus Ivory Spacer Fittings: 416
    9 points
  31. Finishing this up. Water quenched 1095 blade, copper guard plate, antler bolster with carved birds head cartouches , carved box burl handle, leather sheath: let me know what you think...
    9 points
  32. My latest sword a patternwelded single edged viking with patternwelded fittings. hope you like it. stay safe out there.
    9 points
  33. Hello.... For over 11 years I have been working on traditional Japanese edged weapon, specifically grinding and polishing blades and making rim of swords. I use traditional materials and their modern modified analogues. Forging and heat treatment of blades are done by my friend Dmitry, he is a professional blacksmith and gunsmith with experience over 10 years. Since 2016, i began making art knives, in the styles: cyberpunk / bio-mechanics, using some of the best materials and precious metals. I try to do all the work in the highest quality, studying new technologies and do various experim
    9 points
  34. Well here it is all done, I am happy with how this turned out in the end esp since it is my first sheath of this type and also my first go at leather tooling (thanks Josh). I have a confession....I had become a bit stale and board with making knives and I feel this has lit a fire again and inspired me to delve into the artist within me. I am really looking forward to my next project which will be a sheath for my pattern welded broken back seax. I also got some 90cm lengths of 15n20 and 1075 so this year I hope to get creative with my blades too.
    9 points
  35. Hi all! I hope you are well, here I bring you the second part of a work that began with Gib Frid, a sword that we showed earlier and that served as a school sword to perform Dark Sister. Dark Sister is a famous Valyrian steel longsword, one of two ancestral swords of House Targaryen. Not having Valyrian steel, we forged the blade in 400 layer of 5160 and 15n20 in an Oakeshott type XVIIIc designed geometrically as its sister Gib Frid in proportion of 4/1 blade / hilt. Configured with the usual taper distal for this swords. The grip is made of leather lined with leather, finished in silver
    9 points
  36. Hello: Just finished this one for book IV...what a nightmare this one was...the polish is deadly....cut myself a bunch of times but double edges can get yas.. Still it turned out OK I guess.. Not too bad for a broken down old man.. blade length 13 3/4"...1095 and L6 laminate... This one could really benefit from a pro grade polish.. A bunch of stuff going on in there... Hope the photos work JPH
    9 points
  37. I received this birthday card from my wife. 26 years together and she still makes me laugh hard.
    8 points
  38. Hi guys, Hope you don't mind if I share a big non-blade project I've been doing this Summer. Last Fall I purchased a very abused boat, a Nordic Tug 26. This is a really neat, classic power boat with whimsical lines. Whoever owned her before me was the equivalent of a violently abusive husband. She was so, incredibly beat up. Anyway, I've spent the Summer gutting the interior, painting the interior hull in preparation for a new engine installation, and spending hundreds of hours fiberglassing, sanding, scraping, caulking, painting, and varnishing the exterior. All teak h
    8 points
  39. Alright, so I got a question from a potential customer as to whether or not the knife comes with a certificate of authenticity... given the absolutely horrendous price-tag. -So, I decided to make one. It has been a learning experience, no doubt about that. And after 42 hours of work, here is the result. Draumr Gripnir - Certificate of Authenticity: Specs: Leather: 2mm vegetable tan, dyed and painted with acrylic paint. Paper type: Original Crown Mill 100% pure cotton, 100gsm, Ivory color. Page size: A6 Pages: 48 Metal details:
    8 points
  40. Greetings Fellows of the forge, While I am waiting for the leather to get shipped to Darwin for the sheath to house my recently finished Seax I have been spending my time making wood carving chisels, gravers, punches and researching how these sheaths were constructed. Well In my research I have viewed countless Seaxes both historical and recreations and have decided that I absolutely love the Broken Back style blades especially the Long pointy ones. I also came across the Baltic style War Knives and after reading the Baltic War Knives thread in History I dec
    8 points
  41. Hi everyone, Though't I'd throw this one out there... Finished it during my "summer vacation" - effectively canceled thanks to Mr. Covid-19.... Long story short though. I've got a colleague of sorts who has helped me quite a bit throughout my career, and as he is leaving due to retirement, I thought he'd need something for his future free time in the wild. I give you "The Knuckle" - which incidentally is his nickname through many years in the industry. Blade is in a san-mai lamination with tool-steel for the core, and the folded steel is a mixtur
    8 points
  42. Hi all, Here is a batch of lockdown projects just finished. These are all late medieval style eating knives and sheaths. The blades are all just very simple designs forged from 1075+cr, with as close to a flat grind as I could get. The handles are a mixture of apple, laburnum, yew and walnut, with brass pins and bolsters, and the sheaths are all inspired to some degree by originals from 'knives and scabbards', though not exact copies. Since making the blades I have acquired a lot more reference for this kind of knife, and in retrospect they are a little br
    8 points
  43. A sad day. I finished this . . . no project to work on in quarantine now. So, the hell with this: I'm driving to Alaska. I start tomorrow. I just bought a 5th wheel camper and got diesel truck to tow her. Should take me 12 days. Wish me luck crossing the US/Canada border. They have closed it, but rumor has it they are letting Alaskan's through if they can prove they are residents. I'll post some photos. The handle on this one is copper, African Blackwood, moose antler, and more copper. Hope you guys like it. Dave
    8 points
  44. Howdy again folks. Following along the same knife pattern as my most recent post, I've gone to my comfort zone and tried to create something clean, sleek, and classy. I think I did alright! Hope yall enjoy!
    8 points
  45. I often mention using alignment pins and a drywall screw to hold the handle piece together while finishing the handle off the blade. I just did a search and realized I never posted the technique on this forum. So here it is. My alignment pins are laid out in relation to the tang, and I purposely offset them in relation to both center lines so that there is only one way to assemble the spacer to the handle once it is made. (pretend this spacer is not shaped yet)Now, the drywall (DW) screw will not fit through that slot. So, you have to grind off the teeth on opposite sides
    8 points
  46. So it's about time for bi-yearly photo dump I mean to just post more often here and it never happens... so I apologize again for the flurry of photos that is to come, but hopefully you guys enjoy! I'll start with a smelt that Matt Berry and I did in January as a follow up to a previous smelt at Dragon's Breath that I ran for their yearly hammer-in. We used local iron sand from the beach a la Japanese and ended up with some really nice steel. I wanted to up the ante with the second smelt and built the furnace to provide a better yield (theoretically). It worked a charm! We charged
    8 points
  47. Here’s some of my forged stuff form the last year .
    8 points
  48. All done except for the leather work. I heat blued all the stainless fittings except the guard.
    8 points
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