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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    For many years now I was business partners with Peter Swarz-Burt and watched him making wootz . I learned a ton from him over the years. Well Peter left the shop last June,moved to HI infact. After peter left I got an order for a wootz knife . There were a few bars laying around I could use so I took the job.. the bars failed .. so I began my dissent into wootz making . This is the first piece completed from My wootz
  2. 7 points
    Just finished this up as a present for a friend. Blade is 1095 with hamon and coffee etch. Copper habaki and seppas, oil blued mild steel guard, reconstituted malachite and copper spacers, carved maccassar ebony handle with copper lined cut out and acrylic bead. Take down construction assembled with a single copper pin. Sheath is magnolia covered with goat skin and copper chape and suspension ring, with malachite and acrylic inlaid accents: let me know what you think...
  3. 6 points
    I have some progress shots on a 4-bar twist for a commission I'm working on. Surface ground after welding. Pattern reveal after a light etch.
  4. 6 points
    My fencing coach never taught me that parry. I suspect that particular technique was forgotten because it generally sucked.
  5. 6 points
    336 layer random damascus/African Blackwood/ 416 Fittings
  6. 6 points
    specs above, more info and photos on the website: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/07/inome-tanto/ yoroshiku!
  7. 4 points
    Don't think I shared these 2 I made earlier this year, They are Hitachi Blue2 core, with Ni barrier, and a cladding of wrought iron and a high chrome bandsaw blade 'damascus' - from memory about 100 layers per side. The 'K' tip ended up in the scrap pile die to a slight weld flaw, which was a shame as it kind of forged itself to that shape (it was my first 'k' tip!) - Ill make another though. The traditional profile is still waiting for a handle! Both blades are about 220 length. All the geometry is forged in, only the lower bevel ground. They look a bit washed out in the pictures, but there is quite a bit going on in the metal. I will probably re-finish the survivor with a kasumi lower bevel, I did a rough stone finish on it before I went the ferric route, and it looked a lot better than it currently does!
  8. 4 points
    Rubbed in a few additional drops of Lin-Speed.
  9. 4 points
    Not sure about this image... Is this what happens if you lose?
  10. 4 points
    Alright with the knife done, I think the time has come to post some WIP pictures I actually made two similar knives because I want to have one extra to sell and making two is almost as fast as making one. The carving is different because making two exactly the same is boring in my opinion. The person who draws my name will get to choose his favourite. I started by making a layout file in autocad, this made it a lot easier to get the pin placement right. Normally I design all my stuff freehand, but here some extra accuracy was beneficial. For the blades I made a san-mai (maybe ‘’go-mai’’because of the five layers?) billet with a 1095 core, 15n20 strips on either side and wrought iron sides. The wrought came from the wall anchors from a early 19th century farm. After surface grinding the steel I cut the blades and backspacers from this material. I chose not forge closer to shape because it is a lot easier, but also because the pattern looks better when ground deeply. They were heat treated and ground normally. Grinding such small blades was a lot more difficult as I expected, I burned my fingertips a lot. After the steel parts were done the real work was about to begin. The copper needed to be flattened, and because copper doesn’t stick to my surface grinder magnet it had to be done with sandpaper on a granite plate. I think this was the most time consuming part of the whole build. The flat copper gets super glued together and holes are drilled. I made some brass washers for the pivot and decorated them with a tiny hammer. I assembled the handle without the blade and shaped and polished it, after buffing most of the copper pins disappeared. The blade is etched and the pivot pin riveted. With everything assembled I could move on to the best part: engraving the handles. I mount the knife in pine rosin pitch and tap away with a tiny hammer and homemade engravers. After some testing of different ways to layout the design I eventually settled on using regular old whiteout, it sticks really good to metal, you can draw on it directly with a pencil and even erase pencil lines when careful. So now I could freehand the knotwork with pencil and just follow the lines with chisel. After carving and removing of very sticky pitch I patinated the handles with liver of sulphur. And Most of the patina rubbed from the high spots. With handling these knives are only getting prettier each day. Even scratches add to the antique look. I just got a new camera, so I made some high resolution pictures for you all to enjoy. Thanks for watching
  11. 4 points
    Teaer pic. Have to get the etching of the discs re-done but it is all starting to come together.
  12. 4 points
    Hello I just wanted to share my first forged knife. I've made two blades before this but they cracked in HT. 20190728_172512.mp4 20190728_172512.mp4
  13. 4 points
    I've traded knives for many things over the years. This time I traded a long time friend, Anthony Verburgt, for a pair of original oil paintings. One is a very nice recreation of one by my favorite artist, Edouard Manet. The second is a recreation of one by the model in the first, Berthe Morisot, one of the few female impressionist painters of the 19th century.
  14. 3 points
    OK, it isn't pattern welding, but the similarities won't be lost on this crowd. Apparently there are areas of rock where layers of iron and other contrasting materials were laid down. These layers were then manipulated by geologic forces over a couple billion years to produce some striking patterns. I didn't know this was a thing. I'd love to see this in person some day... http://www.gigapan.com/galleries/7754/gigapans/94833
  15. 3 points
    I started welding wrought iron tangs onto my swords and seaxes for the reason that when I'm pattern welding it is easy to distort the pattern when forging the tang in and peening modern or even mild steel just sucks. In order to combat that I would forge a stub tang, weld a wrought iron one on for ease of peening, and then grind the shoulders up about 1/8-1/4 inch to deal with the distorted material. The softer material helps a lot with the peening, particularly on smaller blades. I'm gonna be doing a forge welding demo at Ashokan this weekend starting with a bar of wrought iron and a piece of pattern welded steel, and show a method for forge welding without wire or tack welds, then forge weld a wrought iron tang onto the blade, preserving the steel where it's needed. I'll also forge two blades from this material, hot cutting in the 45 degree angle to create the tip of the blades. My intent is to show an old school approach to forge welding and the additive nature of this technique which allowed historical smiths to create larger objects from bloom iron. I think the key feature here is the fact that all work back then was additive. It's hard to get in that mindset as a modern smith especially with how ease stock removal is for us. When you have a couple small bars of bloom and need to make a large sword, you get really good at thinking in puzzles and solving the problem of how to create a workable and useful bar of material, you need to maximize the steel in the edge and maximize the iron for the rest, including the tang. Having steel in your tang doesn't really net you anything besides maybe resistance to bending as far as I'm concerned. Seeing as so many war time Japanese swords also had iron tangs welded on, and not a lot of them have broken at the tang, I would posit that this is a really durable method, and isn't likely to fail. I have clients that abuse the work I do in the field, and none have ended up with a shorn tang. I think the video was well intentioned but he made a lot of claims that don't make sense. It's true, that was and still is an important way of making use of the various properties, but most people nowadays don't do this technique for the same reasons as it must have originality been done. I've held and documented several larger seax blades, all of which had the tell tale signs of a forge welded tang and sandwiched contribution. In making bloomery steel swords I have also welded a tang on, for ease of peening but because when you have a ~15 bar sword made from dirt you don't want to lose any more material than you have to. I don't know if that helps anyone, but I see this method as an extremely practical one. I have a hard time believing it was done originally for any other reason
  16. 3 points
    If you have been trying to register and it seems like your attempts never pan out, it's because you didn't read the "read before registering" post or the stuff you have to answer "yes" to when you register. As in, no numerals, actual name, no "knives," "swords," "Smith (unless it's your name)," no business names, that sort of thing. This is a constant issue, but it seems like it's getting a lot worse lately, at least three per day, often the same folks. Read the instructions!
  17. 3 points
    Next the curve back needs attending to and again hot fingers require a number of dips in the water bucket. Finish shaping is done on the 2 inch mandrel I had made so it was time to replace the 80 grit paper I have this block clamped to the drill press table as it allows for 2 inches of wind up adjustment before I have to add another block under it but with a 6 inch tall mandrel it allows a reasonable ammount of sanding before the paper needs changing. I get quite a few bolster sets out of the paper for the horn bolsters but for the metal ones I still get three sets and it dosent take much to shange the paper. The spray adhesinve holds well and is reasnably simple to remove with thinners and a rag with a bit of a rub. With pins removed I have a set of bolsters ready to fix in place. These ones will be done wit brass pins to have my 3 dot mark subtly visible in the stainless bolster. Customers have made this request on a number of the curve backed bolstered knives when discussing upgrades
  18. 3 points
    6.75 inch "Gothic Style" Integral Nakiri:Details:- Hand Forged- 6.75 inch Blade- 2 inch Heel- 4.75 inch Handle- 0 Degree Grind- Damascus Pattern forged from 1080 and 15n20 High Carbon Steels- Partially Hidden Full Tang- Precision Machined African Blackwood Handle for a Pinless Construction- Faceted Front Integral Boster- Gothic Style Faceted Rear Integral Bolster This was my first ever attempt at a feather pattern and as I'm sure some of you know my layer count was too high, and the straight horizontal lamination muddled the effect a bit especially when forging out the blade. Asking $1100 (free shipping within the U.S.) and offer a 10% industry discount for other makers. Contact me at hollandaise.in.the.sun@gmail.com or check out my etsy/instagram for other knives and details. https://www.etsy.com/shop/olympickitchentool and https://www.instagram.com/olympic_kitchen_tool
  19. 3 points
    After changing the both the blade & handle multiple times, here's the completed cutter that I will be taking to the show: (W1 blade/checkered bocote handle)
  20. 3 points
    It is not a stabber in the general understanding of stabbing but it is used point first for the initial cut. The quickest way to do the job is with the animal on its side (with my left leg in front of the sheeps back legs for a left handed cut) and the neck stretched with the head held round my right shin by my right hand so the point of the knife goes in and through at the corner of the jaw bone which severs all the neck muscles and blood vessels in one quick cut and this exposes the spinal cord for the reverse cut. The start to finish is about 1.5 to 2 seconds and is as quick as it gets for this part of putting meat in the freezer, but the knife does need to be very sharp and very directable.
  21. 3 points
    Ok, so roughed out a few parts to prototype one of these. The spring is still oversized so I can grind it to match the scales, but I think I'm going to like it. I'll report back when it gets further along.
  22. 3 points
    Everything finished now so was through to see friends this morning and fitted the grip sets to get some picsl The story and data card to go with the boxes
  23. 3 points
    Here's five of them completed. The other has found a new home and two of these are promised. Whatever I have in two weeks will go to The Central States Show.
  24. 3 points
    Ive got my login for posting piccies from Flickr back so will update my progress..lots of picciees and vids taken so lots of stuff to post.....but not for a week or so!!!
  25. 3 points
    Allow me to add the humor to this thread: If it's not holding, is it really a Holdfast?
  26. 3 points
    I finally finished the seax knife using the first puck of high carbon hearth steel I had made: It's a very simple shape using a brass bolster and curely maple handle. Here is a close up look of the blade to bolster transition: To be honest, I am not a really good knife maker as fit and finish is not something I pay a lot of attention to. There will be a video on my Youtube channel tomorrow that goes through all the steps with occasional quirk comments on my knife making philosophy. Let me know what you think Niels.
  27. 3 points
    Indeed. If I could find the person who spread the idea that sand and plaster make a good refractory I'd make him wear kaowool underpants... if I had my way, that is. Getting plaster that hot just turns it back to gypsum powder. The sand, if it melts, helps hold that together. It can work for an emergency or single-use forge, but if you want to do more than flatten a few bolts actual refractory materials are required. And not expensive. Just hard to find if you only go to big box stores.
  28. 3 points
    My wife used to do spinning show and tells as part of a Mountain Man encampment. The knowitalls talking crap about spinning wheels is always good for a laugh, but my favorite story is the guy who wanted to know "How many times can you skin a sheep before it dies?" Geoff
  29. 3 points
    The best (worst) question that I ever got was, "What do you make your knives out of? Steel?". I SO wanted to mouth off about when the bronze age ended but restrained myself. Another jewel was, "Who buys these knives?". I replied that most of my smaller knives go to deer hunters. He immediately replied, "Well I'll be damned. I didn't know that you could hunt deer with a knife."
  30. 3 points
    Couple of months ago I finished the sword, the photographs were safely stored on the computer and now the time to finish the thread came The sword has plenty of flaws and is far from perfect, but it is suitable for fighting (it is blunt for reenacting). The blade is durable and fully functional. I have learned a lot during forging it - first thing: use more material to do more stock removal to leave less flaws. As always curious cat does a quality check. I hope this time it passed And here You can see all the rest of pictures showing the finished sword. My cousin decided for Petersen type L as this makes the grip more flexible in wrist. The crossguard and pommel (actually filed from one piece) are blackened with linseed oil.
  31. 3 points
    This is my first ballock dagger that I have been working off and on (mostly off) for the past 10-12 months. This is also the fist time I carved a handle and tried to cast something. The pommel is a simple sand cast - I carved a pommel out of wood and pressed it into the casting sand to make the mold and just poured brass over it, cutting and grinding away the overflow. The blade is 5160, handle is boxwood and the fittings are brass. The "garnets" are cast UV resin, also a first for me. I definitely learned a lot in the carving, casting, and resin process. Hopefully, the next one will not have all the of flaws that glare at me every time I look at it. Overall, I am happy with the way it turned out....one more step of progress in trying to make a "perfect" piece. As usual, my photography skills with a phone are lacking.
  32. 3 points
    Handles completed, now on to the blades.
  33. 3 points
    I have not had them do any custom stabilization. I have only purchased their pre-stabilized stock. I cannot remember anything I purchased from them failing my test. I have had other company's stabilized wood fail. I am curious about their stabilization services You probably don't know me as well as some of the other forumites, but I love to argue. I'm Sicilian, and arguing is just something we do to pass the time. So don't ever be afraid to get argumentative with me, just be prepared for the long haul if you do.
  34. 3 points
    That's not far out, that's just the mark of an appreciation for the human side of the story. When I started making folders a couple months ago (only 1.5 so far, btw...) my wife was completely behind the idea until I showed her the finished first one. It has plenty of minor imperfections if you know where to look, but for the nearsighted or unknowing it looks pretty darned good. Now when I show it to people she says "It's too perfect! It looks like it was made in a factory, not like your handmade stuff." I told her that was the idea, since the pocketknife market seems to prefer that aesthetic. It does go against everything I've ever done. I appreciate minor toolmarks. Let me hasten to say I mean MINOR, not stray 36-grit scratches. A patch of drawfiled surface half-polished out in a hard-to-reach place is fine, though. Too many new folks latch on to that sentiment without having developed the skills to do better, which is how we end up with the beaver-gnawed 2x4 handle on a newbie-ground crowbar look. That's not where it's at. Slight flaws remaining with excellent craftsmanship and an eye for detail, that's it.
  35. 3 points
    I'm glad you are due north of me. Otherwise all that iron you drag home would start to mess up my compass bearing!
  36. 3 points
    Ready for final assembly (I'll grind & polish the butt cap after all is assembled & epoxied):
  37. 3 points
    I don't know if they are really any better, but I tried to take some more pictures of these guys before give them away to document them better in my "portfolio"... this is just me, my iphone, and an improvised light box. I may try to get a photographer friend of mine to take some pictures too. Anyway, That is all. Thanks for all the encouraging words. Til the next project. Adam
  38. 2 points
    The broad seax I started a while ago and posted about; see the Pinned Show and Tell (which for some reason no one can reply to) is finally finished. I will have a video up about it soon. Here are a few cell phone photos: Differential hardening on the shallow hardening cutting edge: Pretty long blade and tang: I put a temporary handle on it for testing. This is present for a friend of mine who will make his own hardware: The friction fit was good enough for some simple cutting tests and did not come loose.
  39. 2 points
    I wanted to make a first post around here so I figured I might as well start with one of the key pieces to my start in knife making. A couple years ago I decided to make a knife for my dad for Christmas as well as one for myself. So I set about researching how to make my own kiln and decided that I wanted to go electric over gas so I could have a more accurate control of the temperature. In the past I've made an immersion circulator with PID control and heating elements so I have a little bit of working knowledge on making heat and not electrocuting myself although this gets a fair bit hotter than the 127F I cooked meat at. In the research phase of the build I found myself on a lot of pottery websites researching heating elements they use for firing pottery as well as some electricity sites learning about ohms and volts. In the end I had a full page of notes based on the surface area of my enclosure, the power and heating element I was using. It's been so long now that I can't remember what all went into the calcs but in the end what I used seemed to work. I made the enclosure at work out of some sheet steel I ordered from a local metal supply and robbed the old PID and SSR from my circulator project of past. Packed all the wiring into the the old enclosure. (Didn't die doing it) Got the PID programmed and started making heat. (IIRC that is deg C and that might be as high as my PID will go) The kiln seems to be pretty efficient after it gets up to temp and only draws 10 amps at 230v. I'm still awestruck that somehow all my math has worked out. The fire bricks I used keep the exterior of the enclosure at a reasonable temp for quite a while, you can still touch the top after an hour or so of use and the plastic box on the side has never gotten remotely hot. I completely cooked that poor piece of mild steel to nothing after being in there for a while. I literally fell apart and you could break it with your hands. I've made a few knives with it to date and it still runs well.
  40. 2 points
    And also a cool little bamboo stand I made for my kitchen knives. The bottom one has become my personal knife. I bring it along to show customers how carbon steel will patina over time.
  41. 2 points
    This is actually possibly more problematic as you run the risk of temper embrittlement at the worst spot possible. Differential hardening is less likely to cause undue stresses, I would think. Every time Matt talks about metallurgy I cringe. But generally I like his videos, and I think I have seen them all. In this case he did bring up either not hardening or tempering back a mono-steel tang, so he did at least save himself a little there. He is apparently under the impression that weld failures don't happen and welding is easier than proper heat treat.
  42. 2 points
    Guitars are like hammers; they all have different uses and it is difficult to just stop at one.......I have an acoustic folk, a banjo, an electric bass, an acoustic 12 string, electric 6 string Les Paul clone, a Danelectro reissue, and a hollow body electric 335 I built from a kit. My name is Steve and I have a guitar problem
  43. 2 points
    Having done that and having three of the Light hunters to do with the Impala horn handles I had a serious look at and some research on the usual handles done with this material and many are in fact bone jiged to resemble the horn so I found where the old time horners(those who work with the horn) would heat the horn to near 350F and it would become pliable so I did that and have it clamped flat so will see in the morning how it has reacted to this procedure. The orders are for handles from the horn that Tony had hunted and wanted for his sons so as there was a set of extra horns in the box I cut these first to check the process. Cutting the appropriate length from the smaller set Splitting them lengthwise and removing the core which is dried and loose inside. Ready for heating and clamping flat
  44. 2 points
    New project in progress ⚔ American Independent War Hanger Blade made from EN45, handle from american walnut with brass, guard from mild steel. Thank you
  45. 2 points
    hey, I haven't visit the forum for a while, busy year...:) I would like to present couple of short videos with one of the latest projects. Thank you for watching. Jacek
  46. 2 points
    Hello gentlemen, I have something new to sell and show you all. This full tang camp knife was forged from 80crv2, a very tough and hard wearing spring steel, on the spine and ricasso the texture from forging is still visible. The blade is antiqued to a matte grey for looks and a bit of rust protection. My makers mark is engraved and inlaid in copper on one side of the knife. The blade is razor sharp and this knife is an excellent cutter. The handle has an integral forged guard and is made of spalted beech scales with copper pins and lanyard tube. The scales have a ``heirloom fit´´ this means that they aren´t totally flush with the tang, when the wood shrinks with humidity or age there will be no ugly gaps between scales and tang. The lanyard/wrist loop is leather with a handmade copper bead. The sheath is hand sewn vegetable leather with a decorated belt loop. Steel: 80crv2 carbon spring steel Handle: spalted beech and copper pins Weight: 395grams Spine thickness: 5.5mm Height: 40mm Edge Length: 215mm Handle Length: 125mm Overall Length: 365mm €225 + Shipping I have also posted this in my Etsy shop, buying from there is convenient payment wise, but please feel free to contact me via PM or e-mail. https://www.etsy.com/nl/listing/732561861/hand-gesmeed-rustieke-camp-mes?ref=shop_home_active_1 Thanks for looking, -Pieter-Paul Derks- mefecit@outlook.com
  47. 2 points
    Some of you may have noticed the white lines travelling along the weld seams in the last two photos. This is an inherent risk in multi-bar patterns. I demonstrated how to avoid this in my 2016 KITH thread using graphite spray on the mating surfaces before welding. (A trick I learned from Tim Hancock) Well, I just plumb forgot to do that on this blade and there are those nasty little lines. Have no fear, @Gary Mulkey showed how to eliminate them after the fact through normalizing. So I took Gary's method, added a little Hancock, and put my own twist on it. I sprayed the blade with graphite, wrapped it up in tissue paper and stainless steel foil. Then I stuck it in the oven at 1350 for an hour. No more lines.
  48. 2 points
    I am done too, I'll have to do a little write up in my kith thread soon. The person who draws my name wil get to pick one of the damascus folders. I'm keeping the monosteel one for myself.
  49. 2 points
    With regards to overheating, when finish grinding, I run the grinder fairly slow, with fresh belts, and the steel is always wet. This allows me to have my thumb or fingertip right at the edge where it is touching the belt. (I do sand my fingerprints off every now and then.) Once it gets warm to the touch, I dunk it again. Using this approach, I avoid getting blue tip, or spots along the edge. I hardly ever use anything more aggressive than 120 grit after heat treating anymore, and final thinning of the tip is usually done with 220. I'll use 300 grit to clean up the grind marks, and then start hand sanding after that. Running slow (probably around 1000 to 1500 feet/min) with a good 120 grit ceramic belt, I get very little heating. I can probably work the blade for 15 to 30 seconds before dunking in the water unless I am working on a very thin area. The 300 grit AO belts cause the balde to heat up more quickly, and I have to be more careful at that point. As with all things on the interweb, YMMV
  50. 2 points
    Religion is like a penis : perfectly fine to have and take pride in It's when you start waving it in my face we have a problem...
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