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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    I have been playing with feather patterns recently, started up looking at illerup idal blade fern patterns and later evolved to a feather pattern , trying to get a stand alone feather...Its been fun. and has lots of spin offs running in my mind. firy , flamy frondy stuff!
  2. 7 points
    I've been working on a second slip-joint, and decided to try a bit of filework on the spring Here is the blade for it...
  3. 4 points
    First dry fit-up: I've yet to do some final hand sanding & polishing but it's getting close. I think that I'll save that for doing in front of the public tomorrow.
  4. 4 points
    Id like to credit this award to all the foundation work and help i acquired over the last couple years directly from this forum! Without you guys I don't know how far i would have progressed but i wouldn't be where i'm at for sure. Anyway, Im still in shock. I wanted to show and give credit to Alan and salem and the other 100 guys on here that have given me A LOTTTT of their time answering dumb questions. Also, to encourage the newer guys to keep cranking out stuff and trying and making knives! 320 layers Laddered (appears random until you see the chatoyance) -trippy forged integral 2.5" tall at the heel 9.25" long Amboyna 5 stack of g10 spacers 5.5 oz
  5. 4 points
    My latest project: 95mm Scandi ground blade, brass bolster with peened finish, black fiber spacer, padauk handle and bison leather sheath.
  6. 4 points
    Hmm, all I see is a damn good knife maker showing off. That is essentially quilting with steel...
  7. 3 points
    If kitchen knife violence is that big of an issue, just make everyone eat baby food. No cutting necessary outside of tightly controlled government run food processing plants.
  8. 3 points
    Leafspring from a Hilux that got a suspension upgrade close to new, while making the sheath I found out it's 6mm at the guard and 6.5mm at that Lynn Thompson tip. Hollow ground to decently thin, I may have posted a facebook video referencing piercing taxi bonnets as well as shaving.......manly bits Had an idea, took a while but the sheath is flat linen micarta, the same linen I used for the handle, only rolled. Doesn't match, but it works. Leather frog by my dad, he turns 74 on Sunday, and they need to reset his ticker tomorrow, heart issues, thoughts and prayers appreciated.
  9. 3 points
    That is just stupid.....so they can be slashed instead of stabbed? How about getting rid of the violent partners? UK has gone full retard.
  10. 3 points
    Been working on this one for a while, I probably reetched it and polished it enough to finish 6 blades. W2 steel ( Aldo's ) with peened brass bolsters and Black Palm scales with Brass pins. As you can see I got a bit of cleanup to do on the blade as it did get a bit of gunk under the tape while I was working on the handle then I am going to buff the handle and bolsters and sharpen this one up and give it a whirl.
  11. 3 points
    Thanks Ken. The blade was dead straight until I water quenched in my clawfoot soaking tub. I ended up with 0.75" of sori. I just forged out a Tsuba from a piece of wagon wheel.
  12. 2 points
    So, the pattern welded one is a sanmai with 80CRV2 centre core, blued mild steel fittings and ironwood. 7 3/4" long blade with a beavertail hide sheath. A fella saw it but wanted one made from stainless, so it's 8" blade is ground from S35V with stainless fittings and ironwood, also with a beavertail hide sheath. Clint
  13. 2 points
    It's been while since I have posted anything here so I thought I'd show some progress in the absence. When I look back at some of my past work it sure shows how much the forum and many of the members have helped me improve. Left to right are the newest to oldest. All W2 except the chef which is 1095.
  14. 2 points
    Thought I would do some kinda primitive thing that would be quick and easy.......... they look kinda rough and that was my initial intention, but really I should have gone a bit more rough or a bit more finished. Anyway, both forged from old Black Diamond files and clay hardend with wrapped wendge handles sealed with marine epoxy. Clint
  15. 2 points
    Soon after I started making knives I made a edge scriber but was having to keep adjusting it for the various thickness of blades I have been using so over the last week I set out to make another two in between doing other things. I cut a couple of lengths from an old farm implement shaft After giving them a clean up they needed a flat ground down the length of them with a hole drilled and tapped for a 1/4 inch bolt and a 3/8 hole drilled for the scriber shaft A couple of 3/8 bolts and a concrete nail are the other parts needed. Bots are cut to length and a flat grond down the length for the locking bolt to seat on and a hole for the scribe pin The scribe pins cut (and sharpened) from the concrete nail And assembled ready to go with one for the .125,(1084 and 12C27) .156 (1095) and .170 (1075 steel I most often use.
  16. 2 points
    Thats why you dont bring a knife to an alligator fight
  17. 2 points
    I've been wanting to make one of these for ages and finally got around to it. The body of the knife is made from 2mm thick copper sheet which I've beaten and filed the top then applied liver of sulphur to patina the surface. The blade is made from Shiro 2 with a white paper steel core, blade thickness is 3mm, blade length is 75mm, that's cutting edge, overall length of the knife is 186mm and the closed length including the flipper is 135mm. I've called her Tombo, dragonfly, I hope you like her. Thank you for taking the time to look guys and all comments are really appreciated. Steve
  18. 2 points
    Most of domestic violence and murders are done with bare hands. If we use their logic, It certainly is the hands fault and not the owner of the hands... Darn hands, they're so dangerous and violent...
  19. 2 points
    I like that look a lot...the hand forged buckle is a really cool touch too
  20. 2 points
    Here is a pair of drop point's I've been working on for a viewer of mine. He has asked for a matching pair of identical twins (which is a daunting task). If you are making a single blade, and make a mistake, you can easily adapt. But if you need identical twins and make a mistake on one, you've gotta make that same mistake on the other! Anyway, he has dubbed these knives "The Dingers". They are 1/4"x1.5" 5160. You can see how I bolted them together to get matching profiles (and thats why in a couple pics they look EXTRA thick). I chose to do a full flat grind on them, as well as drill some tang holes for some weight reduction. I hardened them in my little coffee can forge and tempered them down with 2 hour-long cycles at 375F. Currently, the edges are sitting at about 1.4mm thickness, and I'm contemplating how to finish that edge off. Should I stick them back on the grinder (in my jig) to get an apex? Should I adjust my jig angle and create a secondary bevel? I just think it would be hard to use a stone to remove that much metal at the edge. Any help is appreciated. Oh... handles will be a stacked setup of 1/32 coyote brown G10, 1mm fluorescent white G10, 1.32 coyote brown again, then OD green canvas micarta. 08.mov
  21. 2 points
  22. 2 points
    Wow Gary! You really do 10 mosaic blades a week, don't you? You only show us one at a time so we don't feel bad about our own skills...
  23. 2 points
    Thanks Jeff! Here's the end product. Best I could do with the time I had.
  24. 2 points
    Alright, I’ve been hoping a thread like this would be started, but I decided to start it myself. I’d say that the majority of you enjoy a nice steak, or some smoked pork butt. It’d be cool if this thread stayed alive for a while, I like getting inspiration for my steak and steak rub. So this thread will be a place to post your good eats, preferred meat doneness and your steak knives. (And what ever other grilling tools you’ve made) grilling and forging are somewhat similar, so I’m assuming it’s fine to post this. I guess I’ll start it off, I like to put a cast iron pan on the fire and cook myself some food, so a few days ago I cooked myself a nice small Tri-Tip steak, to near perfection, it’s a little to done for me but it was still good. And then me and some friends drove up to a reservoir I think it was called Mormon reservoir? But we caught 6 decent trout, and cooked them up. And then tomorrow, I’m gonna be cooking up another Tri-Tip for a nice campout dinner. I prefer my steak to be between medium rare and rare. So around 130 degrees.
  25. 2 points
    I hate to brag, but I'm going to anyway My daughter Rachel (married mother of three boys) recently started a blog. She is a very talented writer. She talks a lot about healthy eating and farming, but today she posted a Father's Day tribute to her Daddy (me): https://www.jandrfarmstn.com/blog/blacksmithing-my-father-s-day-tribute I truly wish I was half as good as she thinks I am. If your into healthy living and farming and such, you can check out the rest here: https://www.jandrfarmstn.com/blog/
  26. 2 points
    This is my vacuum chamber (built by dad) powered by a fridge's compressor.....until that went...turns out my pontoon boat's pump works just as well Messed up the sharpening, it is sharp........and I think I can fix my mess. The polisher slammed that burl-first into the cement floor......solid, strong, good to go. Cuts dry biltong like a dream
  27. 2 points
    You won't go wrong with the Cades Cove Loop. Be prepared to stop and watch the animals and take lots of photos! When we went they took us thru there on the drive tour and there was probably 15 cars. The dude behind me kept blowing the horn every time the procession stopped to take pics of the animals! After about the fifth time, I got out of my car and told him, Dude I have no idea why you came on this trip if you didn't want to see the scenery and the animals! Then I paused and told him if he didn't want to see this then pass or turn around but, if you continue to blow that horn every time we stop I am gonna come back there and shove it up your ^$$! Everybody in the procession started to cheer. He must have got the message because he quit blowing the horn!! But you won't regret the trip unless you run in to some like the dude!!
  28. 2 points
    It's starting to look more like a knife: The more I look at this pattern, the more I see a pair of dinosaurs getting ready to attack each other.
  29. 1 point
    And I don't know enough about gladii to say if they have distal taper or not.
  30. 1 point
    Always nice to see you perform your magic Gary, and this one is special. Learned something from how you do that checkering, thank you very much!
  31. 1 point
    Swearing is a subprocess of burning, which yall forgot.
  32. 1 point
    I dont think there is a notable secondary grind like the tip of a Japanese sword blade. I could be wrong.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    It's ready for a butt cap & pommel nut. I'm thinking that I may go with 416 for the butt cap rather than damascus. This one is pretty "busy" already.
  35. 1 point
    Just finished, Skinner/Utility with gut hook. Handforged 1084 blade, with 500 grit working finish. Blued steel bolster w/ red spacers. Whitetail handle (customer provided, from his own hunting). OAL- 9" Blade - 4.25"
  36. 1 point
    I taught a kid how to heat treat. I thought it went really well. I showed him how to spark test using a wide range of iron and steels, what grains should not look like, how to spot decalescense, and refine that grain in normalization, how to harden, and finally, what grain should look like. Something about teaching I really enjoy... Imagine, as a kid, finding an old vacant smithy; full of the finest blades you had seen. Things of old, of legend, and beauty. Imagine the joy... But, I say that smithy is real; it just awaits the smith... I hope I helped the kid find him today.
  37. 1 point
    hmm, Yep, I couldn't put that in better words. This is something that has become all too true in my stretch of the world in the past few years. Its changed the way of life a lot anymore. I do see a lot of "walking sticks" among the early morning joggers these days, I guess the old pilgrim staff still has a place in society.
  38. 1 point
    Yeah, but you can't ban stupid people. Unfortunately.
  39. 1 point
    Note on safety...I do not remember seeing a warning about welding on rims with tires mounted. Unless the bead is unseated, the welding heat could result in a tire explosion. Bad news.
  40. 1 point
    Get a drill either the same size as the widest part of the tang or a little bit smaller. Drill down as far as you need to go and if needed file little slots to fit the tang all the way in. Take a dowel the same size as your hole and split it in two. From there, sand the flats and size the dowels till the tang fits; you can leave a small gap for glue if you want. This method is SO much easier than drill 2 or 3 small holes and tediously needle file. I did that with the lower part of the handle and for the “bolster” piece, I split in half and filed away notches for the tang to fit in. Again bc it’s easier IMO. If you want, you can put hidden pins through the tang to help locate, I just glued them together. Also, make sure that the shoulder of the tang is seated on the handle! Check and double check to make sure. I didn’t so now there’s an ugly gap in a otherwise pretty good knife.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Alright, so I've finally finished the latest knife... I've named it Járn Haukr - Iron Hawk - with it's handle shaped like that of the body of a bird - with a nice fat chest for good grip. The blade is in bog iron from old tools made by the workers in the Silver Mines of Kongsberg city in Norway. This makes out the body. The edge steel itself is folded and twisted saw-blade steel from an old wood mill and 15n20 for contrast. The edge steel hardened nicely, and ended up at 58 HRC. The handle is in a solid piece of stabilized maple, with brass and vulcanized fiber spacers with a nice piece of mirror polished copper for the bolster. This knife was made extra large and thick in order to accomodate the oversized hands of it's owners, so I took inspiration from some of the more American Bowie style sheaths I've seen on this forum - and made a massive sheath as well. The sheath is 5 layers of leather, died in a deep dark red with brown borders. The iron has some cracks in it - but this is the best I was able to do with the material at hand. If I had more - I suppose I could have kept refining 3-4 kg. down to something a bit more useful. I feel however - that from a historical perspective - it is quite fitting like this. It will be handed over to it's new owner this afternoon. As always, any critique and comments are more than welcome. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  43. 1 point
    Those can still stab and penetrate for sure, looks like they even have a guard to keep your hand from slipping.......... They should remove the handle from the blade and make the entire profile sharp except for the tip!
  44. 1 point
    Thanks Garry. Your work teaches all of us what a good working knife should be.
  45. 1 point
    Just had time to check this out before my Wi-Fi time expires. I love the finished product and am very grateful for the WIP
  46. 1 point
    That's a good looking knife and sheath. I hope all goes well with your father tomorrow. Doug
  47. 1 point
    Steve, that is a very nice friction knife and I especially like the hammering and patina on the copper. What did you do? Hammer the copper apply liver of sulfur then sand it off the high points to show the contrast. I was also given the idea that the authorities in the UK were cracking down on pocket knives. Is it the fact that it's a friction folder that makes it legal? Not trying to get political, just trying to understand the situation. Doug
  48. 1 point
    So after a dissapointing try at etching with the ferric chloride I got some very good advice from Steve (Bladegrinder) so set out to try the hydrochloric acid. 5 liters of 32% was just NZ$20 (US$13) and I got a glass jar to do the heating in. It had a metal cap but a plumbing soil pipe end cap with the thread sanded out was a perfect fit so when not in use there will not be fumes rusting everything in the shed. I made a small bench and used an old gas fire that had had the pot bars cut out but a cake rack was a good fit to hold the pot of water to boil and heat the acid. I had it set in the doorway with a fan about 10 ft back to make a ight air current that would make sure ay fumes went outside. I made a sheet metal shield to keep the air current off the flame and have a soil pipe container with baking soda to nutralise the acid before scrubing the blade in water with a fingernail brush then a gentle sand with 2000grit paper. Water is just about boiling here and the acid is getting warm. I let the water boil for 5 minutes which makes the acid hot enough to do its job reasonably quickly as it only took about 7 minutes to get a nice etch. Note the cake rack (the bars were cut out to take a tray of wood chips for smoking sausage and salami) With hindsight I think the ladder pattern would be much better with a full flat grind but even so the coarse pattern seems to wrok well enough on the larger knife. The raindrop pattern is really quite suited to the ff grind so I am happy with it on this smaller blade. So now that they are etched I can get the handle back on and finished up.
  49. 1 point
    Heat treated these two, both 80crv2 I think. Straight as can be too. Made this for fun, a little short at about 3 fingers which actually feels pretty good. And then this I made a few months ago for my dad and it’s still going great! I really scored a perfect 10 with this board of cocobolo. The picture doesn’t do it justice at all.
  50. 1 point
    Good morning , I'm new to the forum, I would like to present you my work, I only make Japanese blades and Japanese knives on request. Using the original process, in tamahagane steel. sorry if the photos are not in chronological order! you can appreciate in some photos a hamon composed by nie deki and nioi deki. I wait for your authoritative opinions !!
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