Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/22/2020 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    This is lhe latest colaberation knife made by myself and Petr Florianek. Inspired by saxon swords the 11" blade and handle are made by me and the carving and Sterling silver handle ornamentation is by Petr. going for the bling bling! Hope you like it.
  2. 11 points
    Forging the Blade The raw material for this blade spent most of the last century on a former homestead. A large portion of the steel was used for another blade, this was the piece cut from half of the left side. Slowly drying the clay for yaki-ire over the embers in the charcoal forge. After yaki-ire, an #80 grit Sun Tiger stone reveals the approximate hamon as the geometry is set. Habaki Habaki forged to shape in preparation for silver soldering in the charcoal forge. The habaki is textured with files and patinated using a blend of copper salts similar to rokusho. Ireko Saya A two part black buffalo horn (ura) and blond cow horn (omote) lock keeps the two halves aligned when joined. The omote half contains the edge entirely and has an oil collecting reservoir at the tip. The ura half does not contain the edge, keeping it entirely in the omote half. Kataki Tsuka & Saya The hardwood block is split and carved out to fit the ireko saya and the tang and then rejoined using sokui (rice paste glue). This wood is very hard on tools and they require frequent sharpening. Nori-urushi, a mixture of natural urushi lacquer and sokui is used to reinforce certain areas, particularly the koiguchi where the wood is thinner. Mixing the urushi and sokui along with a bit of extra water to help it cure inside the joint. It can take at least a month to fully cure nori-urushi inside a wood joint, more time is better for strength. After the nori-urushi is fully cured the tsuka and saya are shaped with kanna and smoothed with fine rasps and the horn mekugi peg is fitted. An antler crown and tip are used to form a very organic kurikata (栗形, a cord loop) and obidome (帯留, “belt stop”), usually called kaerizuno (返角, “turn-back horn”). The antler kurikata is fit to the saya using a carved sliding dovetail, with no room to spare! The kurikata slides in from one side and then tightens as it reaches the final position. The obidome has a tenon that fits into a mortise carved in the saya, again carved right to the ireko saya. The obidome/kaerizuno will be attached with sokui after the saya is lacquered. In preparation for lacquering, the open grain is cleared of dust using a stiff brush. Ready for fukiurushi, the thin layer of wiped on urushi will preserve the interesting surface texture of the wood. After the lacquer has cured the surface has become a rich, glossy dark chocolate colour. Polishing Once all the parts are made and fitted the blade can be taken through the final polishing stages using Japanese waterstones. The natural #700 used to remove the last of the arato/kongo-do stone scratches. Several stones later, hazuya and jizuya fingerstones made from flakes of uchigumori-do and narutaki-do koppa attached to washi paper with natural urushi are used to even the surface and add depth. This stage is very time consuming as is the uchigumori-do before it. The fine surface grain of the steel brought out by the uchigumori stone throws multiple colours in sunlight. Final Assembly A look at all the koshirae parts before assembly Antler kurikata and obidome attached using sokui and tapped into place with a small mallet. Inserting the ireko saya into the koshirae. Completed aikuchi koshirae. Furusato tanto forged from reclaimed antique steel. View of the spine with peaked iori mune. Macro detail of the interesting texture of the Tshikalakala wood pores.
  3. 6 points
    A little more progress: The tang end sticking out will be penned over. There are some weld flaws there but I don’t think they extend to where it will be peened. I plan on doing all the engraving before I put it all together. Now we are too the blank canvas stage. I get really nervous because one cut could ruin a lot of work... Getting the design right and then getting over that inertia for the engraving is the hard part.
  4. 5 points
    Here’s some of my forged stuff form the last year .
  5. 5 points
    Following the lead of one of my early role models, Daryl Meier, I found a new use for my Damascus drop offs. These two came from a cannister that I made earlier this year:
  6. 4 points
    Latest two brut blades. Think I'm just about satisfied with this and ready to move on to something else.
  7. 4 points
    Furusato (故郷, pronounced “foo-roo-sah-toe”) means home place or hometown and contains the ideas of being rooted or grounded wherever one may sojourn, and a confidence and longing for return. "When difficulties come, I remember my home place…Someday I shall fulfill my task. And, then, return to my home place. To the green mountains and clear rivers of my home." Takano Tatsuyuki, Furusato Materials for the wabisabi aikuchi style koshirae mounting include Tshikalakala (Wenge) wood for the kataki tsuka and saya, Hounoki (Japanese Magnolia) wood and cow horn for the ireko saya, copper bus bar for the habaki, buffalo horn for the mekugi, and pieces of shed antler for the kurikata and tsunakuchi. The tsuka and saya are finished in a thin layer of kijiro fukiurushi (wiped lacquer) made from natural source urushi lacquer. One of the most technical challenges of this project was creating the ireko saya (入れ子鞘, nesting scabbard) lining within the tight constraints offered by the original block of wood. A refined detail that is normally hidden from view, the ireko saya protects the blade from the hardwood. A focal point for the koshirae is the unique antler crown kurikata which is reminiscent of a mushroom contrasting against the dark wood of a tree. Specifications 長さ/刃長 Nagasa: 7 sun 3 bu 5 rin (227mm) 元幅 Motohaba: 7 bu (21.25mm) 重ね/元重 Motokasane: 2 bu (6mm) 反り Sori: uchizori 中心/茎 Nakago: 3 sun 2 bu 3 rin (98mm) 柄長 Tsuka: 3 sun 7 rin (93mm) 拵全長 Koshirae: 12 sun 9 bu 5 rin (392mm) 形 Katachi: hira-zukuri, iori-mune 刃文 Hamon: suguha 帽子/鋩子 Boshi: ko-maru 中心/茎 Nakago: futsu, kuri-jiri, one mekugi-ana, signed near the tip 銘 Mei: hot stamped katabami-ken kamon 拵 Koshirae: aikuchi, issaku more photos and info here: http://islandblacksmith.ca/2019/08/furusato-tanto/
  8. 3 points
    This landed today...... Im a bit in love already. Bit of a mission to unload it from the wagon this morning. Not due to the weight, as we have sufficient cranage, but it was loaded with a fork truck, and we needed to top lift it, so had to partially strip it on the back of a snow covered trailer to get a good lift on it without damaging! took an hour and a half. Safely on the deck now
  9. 3 points
    Nope. No you do not, you lousy spam-farmer for Amazon. Get thee gone from here. Sorry all, fake name, posting from Ludhiana, Punjab, 141015, India, trying to get you to check out a link that increases hits on Amazon affiliates. We do not allow such indecent crap here, and in fact I may send a cease-and-desist to Amazon. Not that they care in the slightest, but they just lost me as a customer for anything I can get anywhere else.
  10. 3 points
    The bedding went really well. No cleanup to speak of and a very tight fit. I stole a little time yesterday and today to create the rough finial. I thought I'd share the process. The tang is threaded for 10/24. So I take a 10/24 hex coupling, put it on a short piece of rod with a small nut, tighten them against each other, and chuck it in a drill. Then I turn it round against either the flat platen or the disc grinder. I put a short taper on it and measure the fat end with calipers to get it just a few thousandths under 5/16" I have a chunk of nickel-silver that I cast from all my scrap. I cut a piece off and sanded/milled it so all faces are flat, square and parallel. I then marked off a square section, and the center of it. This gets a 5/16" hole drilled just deep enough to create about 1/32" straight sides. I flux the hole and the fat end of the hex nut and tap it into the hole. Eyeballing it for straight & square. Drop a chunk of silver solder down the tube. Then I steal off to Liz's workbench and solder that puppy in place. Cut off the excess (save the piece for later) and I have the rough made finial.
  11. 3 points
    Got this one finished up, bar for the sharpening this evening. I forged the blade last year, and it was not very pretty, left it too thick from the hammer, and its fought me right the way through as a consequence! - Core is not centered, but its servicable. The blade is from pre-laminated san mai, with stainless cheeks, and aogami super blue core - The handle is home stabalised spalted beech, and stabalised bog oak. Not sure if I like it yet, but that might be a consequence of it kicking around the shop for so long. I will put it away for a few days, and look at it with new eyes when I sharpen it! All feedback appreciated, as ever
  12. 3 points
    Keep this up and y'all may get a pin. Just sayin'.
  13. 3 points
    I got the action settled into the wood today and made a start on the bottom metal.
  14. 2 points
    D2 is incredibly hardenable. It can also be used to remove the abrasive from sandpaper with no harm to itself. It is also good hammering practice because you can't dent it easily...
  15. 2 points
    John, I think it is worth mentioning that with great power comes great responsibility; and also that absolute power corrupts absolutely. I would fear to own such a machine, for the mischief I would get myself into.
  16. 2 points
    I had been having trouble with the lid of my vacuum chamber with the first lid that came with the unit, becoming opaque with cactus juice contact and the second one is a piece of plexiglass but was starting to star fracture out from the vacuum guage hole, so I got a piece of 8mm alloy and cut a smaller window so there was complete support with no starting point for any of the fracture starring to start from. There are still the end points of the fracture visible but with all round support and no intrusion through the plexiglass, they should not continue to develope, but I will get in a fresh piece to have on hand just in case.
  17. 2 points
    Just finished an overhaul on this hammer today, and I think its too pretty not to share! Ram weight is about 600lbs in american measuring (5 cwt)- a bit to 'full fat' for most bladesmithing duties but still a nice 'smaller' sized hammer. I would love a hammer this size installed for myself (I have a 2 cwt) - but im in a rented building, and planting one in the ground is an expensive and time consuming affair. Ive not looked up the age of this one yet, but at a guess she is 80+ years old. The only thing im sure of is I will be dead long before this hammer! shes good for another 80 years now, and these beautiful old machines are appreciated so much more now I think they are safe from the scrappers.
  18. 2 points
    Hwzt all. Another big project with a few firsts out the way for me. It's a 17" total length bowie, take down construction with a copper frame handle. The steel started out as 3 separate pieces of 1070 that I forge welded into one big billet. I did clay it and differentially heat treat it but no hamon showed up in polishing, so not sure what happened there. Here are the details Steel: 1070 (3 layers forge welded together, hada technique I believe) Riveted langets: copper Guard: 5160 Spacers: copper and African blackwood Frame: fileworked copper Handle scales: African blackwood (dalbergia melanoxylon) Pommel: copper Pommel nut: 1070 Sheath: hand carved and stitched veg tan Here is the final shots (also tried my hand at some editing), followed by pics of WIP. Original design work Successfully forge welded the 3 layers of 3mm 1070 plate together. Was surprised to get an average of 8.5mm thickness across the billet after setting the welds my forging is still very much on the safe side. Forge thick and over scale, grind to final shape and dimensions. I did get some distal taper in at least. pre heat treat grinds just after quench. Nice and straight and I thought the hamon took but it never showed up again. planning the frame and langet combo blade polished up and langets riveted on handle pretty much all together but guard not bent yet guard bent up handle polishing Final shots
  19. 2 points
    Forged my first sword. I'm going for a crusaders 2 hander. I still have more forging to do. Blade length is 28 inches Over all length is about 38 inches. As of now it weighs 44 ounces.
  20. 2 points
    Where's that popcorn emoji when you really need it? Love it.
  21. 2 points
    I made this little belt axe head. That crud on the poll is what happens in a coal forge. I usually wire-brush things before I take pics, but I didn't feel like it today.
  22. 2 points
    My camera is not cooperating on the pictures of the edge, but I did get the profile finished: Theres a big part of me that wants to take a torch and crescent wrench, or fire the forge back up, and start tweaking the edge to center, but theres a little voice in the back of my head that keeps saying that I should bring it in to work tomorrow and use the height gauge to lay out the true center line before I do that. The really weird thing is that the voice sounds eerily like @Joshua States............ I think I'm going to listen to it and call it good for today.
  23. 2 points
    I found this clamp, bought a nice new plank and screwed it on there, realized very quickly it will need to move......so I bird-shit welded this contraption together. Need to make a plan with the little foot and it's adjustment, but so far so good. Also made two 2/3 sized blades of the ones I need to make to test the 1070's behavior during heat treat, one with bevels, one without so I can test if post-HT grinding is viable (for me)
  24. 2 points
    First dry fit-up: As you can see, I opted for a bold pattern in this blade.
  25. 2 points
  26. 1 point
    Never does a man stand so tall than when he stoops to help another. Remember, wherever you go in life, there you are.
  27. 1 point
    Today I did another run of the same material shooting for a lower carbon content ( which I may regret ) . I am on a mission to destroy my crucible furnace so I can switch back to placing a forge furnace in its place ( either one or the other not both )...it just will not die. The ingot is 1500 grams and should be 1.5 to 1.4 % C. I will be cutting both of these in half before forging.
  28. 1 point
    If that second hawk is a pipe hawk you and Alan Longmire are going to get along famously.... Nice work and welcome aboard....
  29. 1 point
    Hey all, thanks for the responses. It has been a bit since I was last on here and had the chance to respond. Upon starting to follow up on my initial post I had wanted to thank each of you individually for your advice however there are enough that I don't have time to thank each individually. So I will say "THANKS!" en masse. A couple things, yes, I have seen a doctor, not just diagnosing myself. I have a rule in my house- I don't treat (or diagnose) my family or myself. That goes badly all too often. I did abandon my hammer hand glove (my left as I am a devoted south paw, like, pathologically LOL) several years ago as I realized I was gripping the hammer like I was Lenny. heh... Alan, thanks for the link. I wasn't aware that there was a section on this in the shop safety area. I don't get to get on here often enough to be truly familiar with the site. A lot of you mentioned having to lay off for however long it takes to recover before I get back hammerin'. Yup, I got that part on lock. It's bad enough that I uh, don't really have a choice. I tried just a few minutes the other day as I have laid off for like a month and it was starting to feel a bit better- or so I told me. The pain was rough enough that I was unable to sleep that night in spite of all my attempts, chemical or otherwise. Although I'm smart enough to know "right from wrong" in this sense I'm also an alpha male and have always survived and thrived (Army infantry for about 15 years so....use your imagination) by "working through" pain, adversity and so on. But I get older every day and that alpha male mentality seems to haunt me more and more. I can't just muscle through everything. I've been guilty of using brute force, a bigger hammer (figuratively and literally), and generally just mongoloid manners to accomplish things. I started learning this craft without any kind of mentorship, guidance etc. I was doing this without even being aware of this site for like 3 years. So body mechanics, hammer technique etc never even crossed my mind. So here I am, working on those things now. This is the longest post/response I think I've ever made so I believe my free time limit has been reached...time to ghost out for a while. Thanks again all, truly, for all the advice. I've got things to try now beyond just the medical side. THANK YOU!!!!
  30. 1 point
    Okay, thanks for the clarification.
  31. 1 point
    The ol' long arm of Amazon... I'd be glad to see it shortened a bit. My JJ tongs are still going strong! I highly recommend getting a set if he's still making them.
  32. 1 point
    I see it! And I like the subtlety of the carving in that big grain.
  33. 1 point
    Let me start by saying no negativity is intended. I'm sure Mr. Rougeau is a fine gentleman, but I do not agree with his theories on heat-treating either 5160 or 1095. We all have opinions, of course. Mine is that neither of these steels require a soak at 1500 (and that 1095 only needs to get to 1450, and 5160 needs 1525 to fully harden), and that it's desirable to get the blade to room temperature (or lower) before tempering. Keeping the blades at 125 degrees isn't going to hurt these steels, but it really makes no difference. The fact that his as-quenched hardness for 1095 was Rc58 and 5160 was Rc57 shows he is not getting full hardness. Certainly useable, but not as good as it could be, even tempered back to 52 for testing as he did. Again, just my opinion. However, as he said at the beginning, this is just an experiment, he is not saying this is THE way to do it. I like his setup. But I'd like to see the grain on the 1095 blade. I suspect it's a bit on the larger side.
  34. 1 point
    I don't use 1070, but I do use 1075 quite often. I find that I need to be at the top end of that range to get something hardened. I have a couple different heat treat setups. The one I use for small 1075 parts is a small laboratory oven and a container of canola oil (sometimes called rapeseed oil in other parts of the world) When quenching springs for slipjoints, I set the oven to 1525F and quench in oil that has been warmed up to ~130F. I've tried quenching from 1480F which is where I quench my pattern welded blades from, but the 1075 parts don't get as hard.
  35. 1 point
    I believe some steels will retain more austenite if you don't let it reach room temp, which is bad. I even put my 26c3 blades in the freezer after it reaches room temp. No blade cracked so far. So, depending on the steel, it may or may not be a good thing. Of course, most of the RA can be converted to pearlite/ferrite/whatever during the tempering cycles but if you aim for the highest possible martensite %, you want RA to transform to martensite...
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    The two on your breaker are for your hot wires, usually black and red. Your ground (bare copper or green) and neutral (white) will go to the appropriate bars inside your panel. The three on you plug will be for the two hots and the neutral, there should be a separate screw, usually tinted green, that you connect your ground to. It's pretty straightforward, but then again, I did manage to electrocute the crap out of myself a few weeks ago........
  38. 1 point
    Im not familiar with Kastolite products im afraid. The stuff I use is sold on ebay in 20 kg bags as '1600 C castable refractory' - It mixes like dry concrete, and is very dense (like concrete, again!) when it cures.
  39. 1 point
    Gerhard, I don't think you need that tightening screw on the bottom of your clamp. If it's a full rectangle, the pressure from the adjustable clamp on top should pull the bottom up enough to lock the movement of the clamp for and aft. Slick idea, for sure.
  40. 1 point
    Anxious to see how this works out. What an interesting, but likely effective way of patterning a blade!
  41. 1 point
    Successfully quenched my first straight razor (wrought iron/26c3 San Mai) and ground my first knife with a false edge.
  42. 1 point
    If you want to see an incredibly good use of blind pins holding the handle scales in place, check this out:
  43. 1 point
    A castable refractory like Wayne sells is much more durable in the long run than Satanite. Doug
  44. 1 point
    The pen is not mightier than the sword. The pen does not win battles, nor does the sword write poetry. Mighty is the hand which knows when to pick the pen and when to pick the sword.
  45. 1 point
    Just finished these off... shame I have no gas for my forge. Was keen to give these a try. They are bolted together right now but once I can light the forge I'll use the bolt as a rivet. Any feed back?
  46. 1 point
    Well here it is all done, I am happy with how this turned out in the end esp since it is my first sheath of this type and also my first go at leather tooling (thanks Josh). I have a confession....I had become a bit stale and board with making knives and I feel this has lit a fire again and inspired me to delve into the artist within me. I am really looking forward to my next project which will be a sheath for my pattern welded broken back seax. I also got some 90cm lengths of 15n20 and 1075 so this year I hope to get creative with my blades too. Thank you to all who have come along for the ride and for those who have posted invaluable info throughout this forum esp in history. Anyhow it is Friday night in Australia and I am about to crack a beer and light the BBQ. looking forward to any feedback etc. Oh...one more thing. I would appreciate any info/suggestions on your preferred suspension for this type of sheath as it might very well see active service on my bow hunts.
  47. 1 point
    Be good, and you will be lonesome. Be lonesome and you will be free. Live a lie, and you will live to regret it. That's what living is to me. -Mark Twain & Jimmy Buffett If the wondering is fun, then I'd say, yes. Maybe it's just who your are and what you do. And shouldn't that be enough?
  48. 1 point
    Oh well, Larrin just released test results on this steel. https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/08/12/how-to-heat-treat-26c3-steel/ Here's the numbers to remember. 1475°f 10 minutes hold, quench in parks50 or equivalent. Recommended 300-350°f temper for around 63-65hrc! Maximum temp is 450°f(for 61hrc). Above that, the toughness decreases due to tempered martensite embritlement. However, others steels like 52100 offer better toughness at this hardness level so 26c3 shines the most at very high hardness, just like White#1.
  49. 1 point
    At least four people per day still don't believe me, so one more time: NO NUMBERS. NO NICKNAMES. PERIOD.
  50. 1 point
    Hello everyone! Vorace is the other sword that we brought from wilmot, from Tannery Pond of the Sword Reflexions class of May of this year. It is made in 5160 steel following the directives of the class curriculum. the total length is 122 cm and the blade measures 96 cm. the weight is 1.6 kgs. hope you like. Sorry for my bad English
  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
  • Create New...