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  1. 8 points
    For many years now I was business partners with Peter Swarz-Burt and watched him making wootz . I learned a ton from him over the years. Well Peter left the shop last June,moved to HI infact. After peter left I got an order for a wootz knife . There were a few bars laying around I could use so I took the job.. the bars failed .. so I began my dissent into wootz making . This is the first piece completed from My wootz
  2. 4 points
    Don't think I shared these 2 I made earlier this year, They are Hitachi Blue2 core, with Ni barrier, and a cladding of wrought iron and a high chrome bandsaw blade 'damascus' - from memory about 100 layers per side. The 'K' tip ended up in the scrap pile die to a slight weld flaw, which was a shame as it kind of forged itself to that shape (it was my first 'k' tip!) - Ill make another though. The traditional profile is still waiting for a handle! Both blades are about 220 length. All the geometry is forged in, only the lower bevel ground. They look a bit washed out in the pictures, but there is quite a bit going on in the metal. I will probably re-finish the survivor with a kasumi lower bevel, I did a rough stone finish on it before I went the ferric route, and it looked a lot better than it currently does!
  3. 4 points
    Rubbed in a few additional drops of Lin-Speed.
  4. 3 points
    OK, it isn't pattern welding, but the similarities won't be lost on this crowd. Apparently there are areas of rock where layers of iron and other contrasting materials were laid down. These layers were then manipulated by geologic forces over a couple billion years to produce some striking patterns. I didn't know this was a thing. I'd love to see this in person some day... http://www.gigapan.com/galleries/7754/gigapans/94833
  5. 3 points
    I started welding wrought iron tangs onto my swords and seaxes for the reason that when I'm pattern welding it is easy to distort the pattern when forging the tang in and peening modern or even mild steel just sucks. In order to combat that I would forge a stub tang, weld a wrought iron one on for ease of peening, and then grind the shoulders up about 1/8-1/4 inch to deal with the distorted material. The softer material helps a lot with the peening, particularly on smaller blades. I'm gonna be doing a forge welding demo at Ashokan this weekend starting with a bar of wrought iron and a piece of pattern welded steel, and show a method for forge welding without wire or tack welds, then forge weld a wrought iron tang onto the blade, preserving the steel where it's needed. I'll also forge two blades from this material, hot cutting in the 45 degree angle to create the tip of the blades. My intent is to show an old school approach to forge welding and the additive nature of this technique which allowed historical smiths to create larger objects from bloom iron. I think the key feature here is the fact that all work back then was additive. It's hard to get in that mindset as a modern smith especially with how ease stock removal is for us. When you have a couple small bars of bloom and need to make a large sword, you get really good at thinking in puzzles and solving the problem of how to create a workable and useful bar of material, you need to maximize the steel in the edge and maximize the iron for the rest, including the tang. Having steel in your tang doesn't really net you anything besides maybe resistance to bending as far as I'm concerned. Seeing as so many war time Japanese swords also had iron tangs welded on, and not a lot of them have broken at the tang, I would posit that this is a really durable method, and isn't likely to fail. I have clients that abuse the work I do in the field, and none have ended up with a shorn tang. I think the video was well intentioned but he made a lot of claims that don't make sense. It's true, that was and still is an important way of making use of the various properties, but most people nowadays don't do this technique for the same reasons as it must have originality been done. I've held and documented several larger seax blades, all of which had the tell tale signs of a forge welded tang and sandwiched contribution. In making bloomery steel swords I have also welded a tang on, for ease of peening but because when you have a ~15 bar sword made from dirt you don't want to lose any more material than you have to. I don't know if that helps anyone, but I see this method as an extremely practical one. I have a hard time believing it was done originally for any other reason
  6. 3 points
    Next the curve back needs attending to and again hot fingers require a number of dips in the water bucket. Finish shaping is done on the 2 inch mandrel I had made so it was time to replace the 80 grit paper I have this block clamped to the drill press table as it allows for 2 inches of wind up adjustment before I have to add another block under it but with a 6 inch tall mandrel it allows a reasonable ammount of sanding before the paper needs changing. I get quite a few bolster sets out of the paper for the horn bolsters but for the metal ones I still get three sets and it dosent take much to shange the paper. The spray adhesinve holds well and is reasnably simple to remove with thinners and a rag with a bit of a rub. With pins removed I have a set of bolsters ready to fix in place. These ones will be done wit brass pins to have my 3 dot mark subtly visible in the stainless bolster. Customers have made this request on a number of the curve backed bolstered knives when discussing upgrades
  7. 3 points
    6.75 inch "Gothic Style" Integral Nakiri:Details:- Hand Forged- 6.75 inch Blade- 2 inch Heel- 4.75 inch Handle- 0 Degree Grind- Damascus Pattern forged from 1080 and 15n20 High Carbon Steels- Partially Hidden Full Tang- Precision Machined African Blackwood Handle for a Pinless Construction- Faceted Front Integral Boster- Gothic Style Faceted Rear Integral Bolster This was my first ever attempt at a feather pattern and as I'm sure some of you know my layer count was too high, and the straight horizontal lamination muddled the effect a bit especially when forging out the blade. Asking $1100 (free shipping within the U.S.) and offer a 10% industry discount for other makers. Contact me at hollandaise.in.the.sun@gmail.com or check out my etsy/instagram for other knives and details. https://www.etsy.com/shop/olympickitchentool and https://www.instagram.com/olympic_kitchen_tool
  8. 3 points
    After changing the both the blade & handle multiple times, here's the completed cutter that I will be taking to the show: (W1 blade/checkered bocote handle)
  9. 2 points
    I found this forum the other day while looking for ways to improve my multi-tool grinder attachment and decided I should stick around for a while since you all seem to be a knowledgeable group with a great collection of skills. First picture is of the knife that inspired my design. I actually made a knife for my wife that very closely resembles the drawing I made based on this knife. I then traced hers after I got it roughed out because I liked it so much and made a slightly larger version for myself. I intended for it to be a more exact copy but ended up leaving more material on it all the way around. As with my first round of knives I made most of these were intended to be Christmas gifts so I was a little limited on time which is why I'm just now getting back to working on mine 9 months later. You can see I loosely based the shape of the handle around the inspiration but I changed up the blade shape a fair bit (IMO). I really like the way that the scales projected into the oversized choil and ran with that as the focal point of the overall design. I like how it affords a good forward grip on the knife for choking up on the blade. Overall I was pretty happy with how hers came out other than the handle needs some improvement/ refinement. (I'll try and remember to get some pictures of hers to add to this thread for reference. It didn't come out bad but it would have been better if xmas wasn't fast approaching when I was finishing it.) Below you can see the group of knives I heat treated in that batch, all O1 steel that I bought precision ground. I had a good mix in there, everything from a pry tool bottle opener thing to hunters and a kiridashi like blade. A keen eye will note that in my haste I forgot to file the jimping into my hunter although my wife's is jimped. I've been using WD-40 when hand sanding the blades and it seems to help the paper last a little longer. Strange stuff happens with suspended metal particles in oil on a magnetized blade. Do blades often become magnetized like this? Scale cleaned up after heat treat. Polished (I've since sanded the blade again, I think it looks better than the polish did. Possibly because the polish was less than perfect.) This is some prelim design work for the handle. I've decided not to attempt to copy the carving on the scales but I was playing with the idea in the below sketch. IIRC the scale material I picked out for this knife is Gaboon Ebony I got from Bell Forrest. Up until this point those are all pretty old photos from either late 2018 to early this year. From this point forward you're seeing what I've done in the last week or so. I decided that the black scales on the polished blade might be a bit boring and decided to add a liner to them. I thought about just doing a layer of brass but I decided to go ahead and add a layer of red micarta between two layers of brass. (.010" brass, .030" micarta) I spent some time getting the scales flat on one face and gluing up the liners (is that the correct term?) then brought them to work to drill on the mill. I don't have a drill press at home and the last ones I hand drilled came out a little bit off. The blade now has a 600 grit finish on it but I'm not sure how far I'll end up taking it. Beginning to rough shape the scales. Where I ended up last night. This ebony is a filthy wood to work with, makes an absolute mess of me and the shop. I screwed up a little bit last night. I got a little ahead of myself and glued the scales on after I got to this point. It would all be fine and dandy if I didn't have more sanding to do on the blade. Oh well, it will just take a little more work to protect the scales and not make swirly scratches where the blade meets the scales. I doubt I'll make any progress tonight as I have some other errands planned but I'll keep you all posted as I make progress. Thanks for checking out my project let me know what you think.
  10. 2 points
    We have a show in November and I need some knives to sell.
  11. 2 points
    I wanted to make a first post around here so I figured I might as well start with one of the key pieces to my start in knife making. A couple years ago I decided to make a knife for my dad for Christmas as well as one for myself. So I set about researching how to make my own kiln and decided that I wanted to go electric over gas so I could have a more accurate control of the temperature. In the past I've made an immersion circulator with PID control and heating elements so I have a little bit of working knowledge on making heat and not electrocuting myself although this gets a fair bit hotter than the 127F I cooked meat at. In the research phase of the build I found myself on a lot of pottery websites researching heating elements they use for firing pottery as well as some electricity sites learning about ohms and volts. In the end I had a full page of notes based on the surface area of my enclosure, the power and heating element I was using. It's been so long now that I can't remember what all went into the calcs but in the end what I used seemed to work. I made the enclosure at work out of some sheet steel I ordered from a local metal supply and robbed the old PID and SSR from my circulator project of past. Packed all the wiring into the the old enclosure. (Didn't die doing it) Got the PID programmed and started making heat. (IIRC that is deg C and that might be as high as my PID will go) The kiln seems to be pretty efficient after it gets up to temp and only draws 10 amps at 230v. I'm still awestruck that somehow all my math has worked out. The fire bricks I used keep the exterior of the enclosure at a reasonable temp for quite a while, you can still touch the top after an hour or so of use and the plastic box on the side has never gotten remotely hot. I completely cooked that poor piece of mild steel to nothing after being in there for a while. I literally fell apart and you could break it with your hands. I've made a few knives with it to date and it still runs well.
  12. 2 points
    Just finished forging this little hook, I need to make a punch so I can punch holes.
  13. 2 points
    And also a cool little bamboo stand I made for my kitchen knives. The bottom one has become my personal knife. I bring it along to show customers how carbon steel will patina over time.
  14. 2 points
    A little more progress. Mostly down to the final handle shaping and finish work on all the parts now.
  15. 2 points
    This is actually possibly more problematic as you run the risk of temper embrittlement at the worst spot possible. Differential hardening is less likely to cause undue stresses, I would think. Every time Matt talks about metallurgy I cringe. But generally I like his videos, and I think I have seen them all. In this case he did bring up either not hardening or tempering back a mono-steel tang, so he did at least save himself a little there. He is apparently under the impression that weld failures don't happen and welding is easier than proper heat treat.
  16. 2 points
    3.5 inch "Hearth" Pattern Mosaic Damascus Paring KnifeDetails:- Hand Forged- 3.5 inch Blade- "Hearth" Pattern Damascus made from 1080 and 15n20 High Carbon Steels- Full Distal Taper- 0 degree grind- Tapered False Edge on Spine- Clipped Heel for a Comfortable Choked Grip- Hidden Tang- Octagonal Wa Style Handle made from Stabilized Buckeye Burl, Copper Spacer, and Pacific Rhododendron Burl Foraged in the Olympic Mountains- Saya made from Live Edge Pacific Rhododendron Burl foraged in the Olympic Mountains.- 3000 grit Finish on Blade, Handle, and Saya This was my first ever attempt at a "Keyway" billet assembly as well as my first ever Filicietti/Ferry Flip Asking $350 (free shipping within the U.S.) If interested Contact me at hollandaise.in.the.sun@gmail.com or check out my etsy/instagram for other knives and details. https://www.etsy.com/shop/olympickitchentool and https://www.instagram.com/olympic_kitchen_tool
  17. 2 points
    8" Clipped Point Gyuto:Details:- Hand Forged- 760 Layer "Rocky Brook" Mosaic Damascus made from 1080 and 15n20 High Carbon Steels- 8" Blade- 2" Heel- 0 Degree Grind- Recurve Heel for a Comfortable Choked Grip- Clipped point for Added Versatility- Hidden Tang- 5" Octagonal Wa Style Handle made from an Exquisite Specimen of Live Edge Pacific Rhododendron Burl, Copper Spacers, and Lapis Lazuli.- Saya Made from Live Edge Figured Pacific Rhododendron Burl, Copper "Staples", Lapis Lazuli Toggle Pin, Braided and Waxed Cotton Thread, andLeather used to line the opening.- 3000 grit Finish on Blade, Handle, and Saya- The Pacific Rhododendron Burl was Harvested in the Olympic Mountain Range at the foot of Mount Constance. Asking $1600 with a 10% industry discount for makers. Free shipping within the U.S. Contact me at hollandaise.in.the.sun@gmail.com or check out my etsy/instagram for other knives and details. https://www.etsy.com/shop/olympickitchentool and https://www.instagram.com/olympic_kitchen_tool
  18. 2 points
    It is not a stabber in the general understanding of stabbing but it is used point first for the initial cut. The quickest way to do the job is with the animal on its side (with my left leg in front of the sheeps back legs for a left handed cut) and the neck stretched with the head held round my right shin by my right hand so the point of the knife goes in and through at the corner of the jaw bone which severs all the neck muscles and blood vessels in one quick cut and this exposes the spinal cord for the reverse cut. The start to finish is about 1.5 to 2 seconds and is as quick as it gets for this part of putting meat in the freezer, but the knife does need to be very sharp and very directable.
  19. 1 point
    Looking good! At 3/8" thick, and with the edge bar added, 26 to 28" will give you a 32-36" blade with a 6 to 7" tang.
  20. 1 point
    Good idea there Ron. Space saving and practical. I might have to nick that idea.
  21. 1 point
    Good solution for knife storage. I dislike the knife blocks (as does my wife) so I built a 2 inch drawer into the 3 inch wide top rail of the cabinette framing for mine
  22. 1 point
    Making charcoal is pretty easy. And nearly free, with the right kind of land available to you. Just takes time, really.
  23. 1 point
    A piece of 8in diameter pipe would be a good start. That will give you 6in of working space in the forge. I used a section of 9in diameter pipe, for my work, which if I was making just knifes would be more than what I would ever need. However if you venture out into making decorative items, Wayne's clam shell design looks like a better option. Its just more versatile for working really bigger and more complicated shapes. Just know for burners, if you happen to build your own, expect to spend a lot of time trying to figure it out. If you buy one, you just have to tune it to run correctly.
  24. 1 point
    For fullers, there's this thread : Personally I have and use 2", 4", and 6" diameter wheels for this, and the 6" is great for wide fullers. Plus you can run the blade at an angle across the wheel to get an even wider, flatter fuller. The 6" is the smallest I'd use for hollow grinding a blade, other than straight razors. I have used it on EDC-sized blades with good results, but I wouldn't use it on anything longer than about 4" of blade. For years the industry (custom industry, like Randall and Loveless) standard was an 8" wheel, but lately bigger wheels are more popular. 10, 12, and 14" wheels are available for most grinders, and then there's the convex platen to simulate the old stone wheels of 36, 48, and even 72" diameter. Those are neat-o, but the water-cooled ones are expensive. I've been thinking about a 12" for folder blades because it's such a subtle hollow. That said, most of the stuff I make doesn't lend itself to hollow grinding so I don't do it often.
  25. 1 point
    It's the internet way. It tends to bring out the worst in all of us. You are far better behaved than most.
  26. 1 point
    It has been ages since I have posted here. I have been getting into local markets to sell some of my knives and other forged things, so I've been making some kitchen knives. They are much more popular than my utility knives and historical/fantasy stuff, although my folders sell well too. Most of the kitchen knives were forged from 1095. I got them really thin, too. I made these knives a bit too triangular, they were all from the same forging session. Usually there is more of a drop point quality to kitchen knives so the handle and edge are more parallel. The handles are all stabilized woods, micarta, and g10. My favorite handle combo so far was this circuit board spacer/micarta. The board is from old ATM boards, so the copper and solder bits are thicker, making it pop. I also got a scholarship from NCABANA to do a damascus class. I took one of Joe Szilaski's classes, it was a really fun trip to NY and back. A rusty rustic swiveling bistro set I made from some old farm stuff (not meant to stay outside) ... and a meme for y'all seax aficionados
  27. 1 point
    I dig that sanding mandrel and wood block. That's some smart thinking.
  28. 1 point
    Conner, That file was most likely made by Nicholson before around 1965 or so. Belknap Hardware was a national wholesaler who had all kinds of stuff made for them by all kinds of companies, but put their own trademark on it. For instance, A Belknap Bluegrass anvil (they exist!) is a Hay-Budden, their axes were by Collins, their forges and blowers were by Buffalo, etc. Basically all top-quality stuff, and highly collectible in good shape. Thus the file is most likely a Nicholson Black Diamond. If it's in good enough shape to use, do so! If it's totally worn out, make a few knives out of it. It's W-2.
  29. 1 point
    Thanks for sharing your process! Though I must disagree about the impossible to grind perfectly flat freehand part . Again, great work on those!
  30. 1 point
    Bit of a bold statement there, Zeb. No where did Matt say in that video that seax were not used for stabbing. He said that there were examples in art contemporary with the age of time seax were in use that showed them being used to stab. He pointed out the problem that stabbing with one raises the problem of the hand sliding up onto the blade being they were absent a guard. That might be part of the reason for having a 6"-8" handle on a 12" blade. It gives more room for the hand to slip before sliding up over the edge. Just like he didn't say that welding a wrought iron tang to a blade was superior to a mono blade and tang. Just like forge welding had to be done right, and I imagine that there were more smiths familiar with forge welding than now. Just like now a welder has to produce his/her tickets to show that they can produce a proper weld, I imagine that back then an apprentice smith would have to show proper scarf and cleft welds to advance to Journeyman. He also didn't say that there were no mono steel blades back in the late Victorian age. He, like Jerrod, said that they had to be done right to keep the user from suddenly finding himself from holding just the handle and guard in the middle of combat. Doug
  31. 1 point
    I think he meant these: https://www.blacksmithsdepot.com/products/tongs-pliers/forge-tongs.html/economy-import-bolt-tongs.html True chainmaker's tongs are no good for bladesmithing, being made to hold only round stock 90 degrees to the line of the reins.
  32. 1 point
    And a very plausible story too!
  33. 1 point
    A couple of new designs today. I killed one of my sheep for the freezer and two of the knives I use were in need of an update. Without going into the mechanics of sheep killing I needed a slightlu more directable handle and the knife I had been using for dicing the meat after it was boned out was proving unsatisfactory in that it had a wasted portion of the blade in the curve from the flat to the tip. and while the flat portion was good the curve to the tip made it unwieldly so a while back I made a shorter one but this showed the need for a longer flat portion.I had wanted to do this for a while and this had prompted me to "get on with it".The slaughterman has a 7 inch (1/8 1084) blade that I have made a fraction wider at the heel end and a little fuller in the handle while the dicer has a 7 1/2 in x 1/8 in 12C27 SS blade for a 12 1/2 overall length.
  34. 1 point
    We have a saying "farming with flies", not sure if it translates. Decided to try something different and finished grinding two small kitchen knives forged from 52100. "Something different" is basically a lower grit finish because of my platen issues with belts higher than 220. It went so well that I had time enough to heat treat these two as well as my 3rd blacksmith knife, also forged from 52100, before a BBQ at a friend.... Stayed over and had a bit too much fun, got home Sunday morning and checked the blades, I basically switched off the oven after the 2nd temper cycle, got in my car and left for my friend's place. They are lovely, everything stayed straight, HT seems to have gone great, happiness. Except, looking at these two kitchen knives I realized they are thin, good HT, bound to be great cutters, but because they're so thin, light and on the small side I will struggle to get a good price for them.... That's where the flies come in Shouldn't complain, hopefully 2 of the knives I have "in stock" will be sold this afternoon.....money for the platen build.
  35. 1 point
    OK so you will pay the price, but will the customer?
  36. 1 point
    Nice !!...................
  37. 1 point
    It’s almost finished, I gotta sand the facets and rebuff the blade.
  38. 1 point
    Ready for fittings and handle.
  39. 1 point
    Seriously cool, sir John!
  40. 1 point
    That nickel layer has loads of activity! Looks almost like a thin hamon , very cool.
  41. 1 point
    Yep. Standard practice from the start of the iron age until the Open Hearth process (Bessemer steel is not high carbon, too hard to control the reaction). I was happy to see at least a few comments that showed experience, but of course there were the zillion or so idiots yammering on about stuff they have no business speaking of. Man, I hate reading YouTube comments... Peter's comment was great and true, which is because he's Peter, but I suspect he was aiming at the rather confrontational title of the video instead of what was being presented. Being a modern swordsmith and all.
  42. 1 point
    Just watched this. I don't remember ever seeing your hammer running before. That things works really well!
  43. 1 point
    I'm actually glad I'm not coordinated enough for multi-stringed instruments, or I'd have a closet full myself. I have things I can play decently enough (saxophone, recorders (alto and soprano)), things I can kinda play okay (pennywhistle, keyboards other than piano), and things I can't play at all (chemnitzer concertina/bandoneon hybrid , cornet). I've tried banjo and guitar, and the left hand just doesn't keep up. The concertina would be great, except the 53 buttons are in no logical order at all. You just have to fiddle with it until you memorize what button does what tone, and if you don't play every day you forget. It's a cool thing, though, made in 1924. Transitional, too. It's not a polka box because it has an extra button and not enough pearl, and it's not really a bandoneon because it's one button shy. But, if you play "La vie en rose" it sounds like a Parisian cafe in the 1930s. Scares the heck out of cats for some reason. I had a set of parlour pipes (small bagpipes for indoor use) that I was okay with, but I traded them for my first forge and tongs. I think that was worth it.
  44. 1 point
    I finally finished the seax knife using the first puck of high carbon hearth steel I had made: It's a very simple shape using a brass bolster and curely maple handle. Here is a close up look of the blade to bolster transition: To be honest, I am not a really good knife maker as fit and finish is not something I pay a lot of attention to. There will be a video on my Youtube channel tomorrow that goes through all the steps with occasional quirk comments on my knife making philosophy. Let me know what you think Niels.
  45. 1 point
    What do you guys think of this design? Especially @Gary Mulkey, since you make lots of those, got any pointers? Should I forget the false edge and do a simpler full flat grind? The blade was going to be 3/16" thick.
  46. 1 point
    Geoff, I would have to get out some paperwork to confirm dates, but from memory, My grandfather joined the Navy at 17 in Little Rock Arkansas, he was in several years, 8? where he served on multiple boats and the USS Arizona. I was told he was in China at one point. June 1941 as things escalated, he had a young wife and two baby girls, at 37 years old, he reenlisted in the Navy. Up to that time he was working for the Humble Oil Company first in East Texas as a true Redneck, then in Galveston running boats. He was sent to New Orleans as Shore Patrol for a couple months then to Galveston again as Shore Patrol, he was rounding up drunks and AWOL (Absent Without Leave) types. It was tuff work, lots of fights, billy clubs, and such. He had told me about being on ships where they would put up three boxing rings and were encouraged to beat the hell out of each other. From Galveston he was sent to the carpenter shop at Coronado Island, San Diego California with my Grandma and his girls. They had basically just got there and were getting settled in when one day my Grandma got a knock on the door, around Christmas 1941 after the Pearl Harbor attack. My grandfather was gone, no explanation, Grandma was told to pack it up and go back to Texas, her the girls took a bus back to Vidor Texas. It is now known that he was sent to New York City and left with a fleet heading to North Africa. From there details get pretty sketchy. I do not know if he was injured multiple times but there was evidence in his file that he was in an explosion at sea, he had told me of going overboard and floating in the Atlantic for three days before rescue, that would be enough to kill most. His most serious injury blinded him for about a year. According to him, he was using a heavy machine gun shooting at an aircraft and they found him passed out and bleeding. It took them months to figure out a rivet or small piece of shrapnel had bounced off the gun and went up his nose lodging there and effecting his optic nerve. He was at Bethesda Navel Hospital for around a year and got his eye sight back. He ended up moving home to Arkansas and started a chicken farm with 10,000 laying hens, raised quail, was a hunting and fishing guide too. He was a pretty famous guy when I was a kid as far as people would come see him from all over, the last of his friends. Sadly I remember him telling me all his friends were dead. One horror, before crime scene clean up crews, a neighbor and friend ate a gun, my grandfather cleaned up the mess. That knife was always on the wall behind his chair, a loaded 38 revolver within reach at all times, he feared nothing in this world and taught me the same. He had been a boy scout leader in the twenties/thirties and made a lemonwood longbow which he gave me as a boy and taught me how to shoot. At ten years old, he got his High Standard 22 out and taught me how to shoot it, strung out through all of it was the occaisonal story about war and its tools. At 12, he gave me a 12 gauge shotgun which stayed loaded next to my bed till I left for the Army. I never had to ask for ammo or permission to go hunting, no gun lock, no gun safe, no rules, he had sought me the right way to handle knives and tools, that shotgun at 12 was graduation day in hillbilly world. My Grandpa, WJ Wylie taught me as a boy how to take rocks and sticks, make them into an knives, tools, arrows and bows, then kill my dinner. That has been the only insurance policy I have ever needed to give me the confidence to travel the world as an American. He was an original subscriber to Blade Magazine starting with the first issue, we had collected around a hundred knives together, I sill have a few of them. My grandmother called him Chief till the day he died, he was my best friend growing up and is still my hero, a true Arkansan and American. When he died, 89 years old, he was quietly cremated, ashes put in the water, Lake Hamilton, his old boat dock, so he could eventually make it back to the sea, reunited with his brothers lost in November 1942. What I wrote today was just typed out from memory but I am working on a more professional written and edited version with details.
  47. 1 point
    I'm trying to clear the decks a bit, so before I put most of these in a drawer, is there anyone out there looking for a big blade? I can finish any of these to your custom order. They are all carbon steel (no pattern weld), most of them are 1080, the two polished ones are L6. If you are looking for a project, contact me and we can talk about a blank for you to finish. Geoff
  48. 1 point
    If I could make one recommendation, it would be that you use a saddle stitch. Before you pass the second needle through the same hole, take the thread from the first needle and leave a small loop before pulling it tight. Take the second needle and pass it through the loop at least once (more like twice), and then pull the first needle tight. It will create a small internal knot that sits inside of the leather. If a single stitch breaks, the small knot will stop it from unraveling. Also, when you get to the end, you can backstitch three or four stitch holes, and then cut the thread without burning it. It will hold just fine provided you are using decently thick thread.
  49. 1 point
    Thanks Timothy, You have done a lot of work..it is a fascinating topic...lots of filling in the blanks.
  50. 1 point
    Nothing you did would have caused any real change to the heat treatment. Most likely..if it shows no pattern on the very edge...is that the blade got hot in the quench and all the carbides are dissolved and thus no or poorer pattern. Ric
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