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Eric McHugh

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Eric McHugh last won the day on May 9 2017

Eric McHugh had the most liked content!

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About Eric McHugh

  • Birthday 01/18/1968

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  • AIM
    EricofAlbion
  • Website URL
    www.crownforge.net

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Crown Point, Indiana

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  1. This is not a paid endorsement...just the opinion of a bladesmith trying to make his way through life. I've tried and tried to find a reasonable source for different size contact wheels for both Albion and my own personal bladesmith business, and I have found that most companies are really expensive and difficult to work with, BUT Sunray INC. out of North Carolina has blown my mind a number of times. High quality wheels for a very reasonable price (often half of other contact wheel makers). In fact, they have an online store in which you can order most sizes for a KMG all the way up to 8" diameter online. So, again, not a paid endorsement, just a fellow maker saying that if you are in need of a contact wheel, don't waste your time...just call or look up Sunray, INC.
  2. I just finished a new dagger. It is based on some examples that are in the Royal Armoury at Leeds. There is more information and pictures on my page: https://crownforge.net/2017/11/04/15th-century-rondel-long-dagger/
  3. I think that is very attractive Alan. Nice work! I'm going to give the heat technique a shot.
  4. No, I haven't tried the heat (yet) only because it seemed to work fine without it. I do have plans to try different techniques and heat was one of them. Much like the concentrated solutions speed up the reaction, I image heat would do assist in speeding up the solution too. Do you have a photo of the wood you darkened? I'd like to see the finished product just for reference.
  5. Did the ferric nitrate penetrate the wood deeper? On a slightly different note, the Quebracho bark powder instructions said that denatured alcohol could be used instead of water. I wonder if the tannic acid solution will go deeper with alcohol than water. I'm gonna have to try it.
  6. That's a good question. I'll have to try it.
  7. Here is an essay I posted on my site about how I made a faux bog oak haft for one of my recent projects. I apologize for making you follow a link, but I don't have the time to copy it into a forum post with all of the images: Making Your Own Bog Oak Haft
  8. Thanks Doug. Honestly, I usually use ash, but there is evidence for other hardwoods. Hickory, interestingly, is not really one of them. There is fossil evidence that hickory was in Europe, but apparently the ice age destroyed it. Ash is my main wood. I used oak this time because I'm doing experiments with the oak, and hadsome long sections available. Oak was commonly used on european pole arms. There is also that the axes in the Lough Corrib boat find in Ireland. The 3 axes, dating to the 11th - 12th century, were found with sections of the haft relatively intact. The hafts were prunus: cherry wood. I've used some lovely cherry wood on some axes. It adds some nice color, and it is quite durable.
  9. Thanks for the kind words. Like many makers, I enjoy when people notice the subtle things.
  10. This is number 2 of 3 single-hand war axes that I have been working on lately. There is more information about this project on my website: Single-hand War Axe
  11. From a 19th century farm in rural Wisconsin. It was silo banding. They demo'd the silo and the guy was selling the wrought iron. I want to say it was 4" wide by 3/8" - 1/2" thick or there abouts.
  12. Thanks Wes! I realize I may go a bit overboard. I should probably take Owen's advice go with "as forged." I do like Owen's "as forged" look...in fact, my main beveling hammer is one of his dog face hammers with a forged finish. Love it. For me, I'm trying to find my own path with the finish and shaping. The only problem (and this is applies to other axe makers) is the customers do not appreciate the work. To most an axe is just an axe. There is little understanding about what goes into these things. Sometimes I spend twice the amount of time forging and shaping an axe head than I do a blade, but I can only get a fraction of the price. At times, I feel like a business moron spending so many manhours on these axes. Regardless, I'm going to forge (pun intended) ahead along my path. ;-) When it's all said and done, it makes me feel satisfied artistically to do these things.
  13. Thanks for the kind words Collin. I used the bowtie method. Then shaped eye around a mandrel. Next step was slitting body and forge welding bit folllowed by further forging and shaping. I do not have pictures or video. I plan on doing it but honesty I'm just trying to get stuff made. I am lining up my son to help do a video.
  14. Just finished a single-hand war axe made from wrought iron and 1080. More pictures and information can be found on my webpage: https://crownforge.net/category/news/
  15. Beautiful Work! Love the transition from bit to body.
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