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Eric McHugh

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Everything posted by Eric McHugh

  1. This is not a paid endorsement...just the opinion of a bladesmith trying to make his way through life. I've tried and tried to find a reasonable source for different size contact wheels for both Albion and my own personal bladesmith business, and I have found that most companies are really expensive and difficult to work with, BUT Sunray INC. out of North Carolina has blown my mind a number of times. High quality wheels for a very reasonable price (often half of other contact wheel makers). In fact, they have an online store in which you can order most sizes for a KMG all the way up to 8" diam
  2. I just finished a new dagger. It is based on some examples that are in the Royal Armoury at Leeds. There is more information and pictures on my page: https://crownforge.net/2017/11/04/15th-century-rondel-long-dagger/
  3. I think that is very attractive Alan. Nice work! I'm going to give the heat technique a shot.
  4. No, I haven't tried the heat (yet) only because it seemed to work fine without it. I do have plans to try different techniques and heat was one of them. Much like the concentrated solutions speed up the reaction, I image heat would do assist in speeding up the solution too. Do you have a photo of the wood you darkened? I'd like to see the finished product just for reference.
  5. Did the ferric nitrate penetrate the wood deeper? On a slightly different note, the Quebracho bark powder instructions said that denatured alcohol could be used instead of water. I wonder if the tannic acid solution will go deeper with alcohol than water. I'm gonna have to try it.
  6. That's a good question. I'll have to try it.
  7. Here is an essay I posted on my site about how I made a faux bog oak haft for one of my recent projects. I apologize for making you follow a link, but I don't have the time to copy it into a forum post with all of the images: Making Your Own Bog Oak Haft
  8. Thanks Doug. Honestly, I usually use ash, but there is evidence for other hardwoods. Hickory, interestingly, is not really one of them. There is fossil evidence that hickory was in Europe, but apparently the ice age destroyed it. Ash is my main wood. I used oak this time because I'm doing experiments with the oak, and hadsome long sections available. Oak was commonly used on european pole arms. There is also that the axes in the Lough Corrib boat find in Ireland. The 3 axes, dating to the 11th - 12th century, were found with sections of the haft relatively intact. The hafts were prunus
  9. Thanks for the kind words. Like many makers, I enjoy when people notice the subtle things.
  10. This is number 2 of 3 single-hand war axes that I have been working on lately. There is more information about this project on my website: Single-hand War Axe
  11. From a 19th century farm in rural Wisconsin. It was silo banding. They demo'd the silo and the guy was selling the wrought iron. I want to say it was 4" wide by 3/8" - 1/2" thick or there abouts.
  12. Thanks Wes! I realize I may go a bit overboard. I should probably take Owen's advice go with "as forged." I do like Owen's "as forged" look...in fact, my main beveling hammer is one of his dog face hammers with a forged finish. Love it. For me, I'm trying to find my own path with the finish and shaping. The only problem (and this is applies to other axe makers) is the customers do not appreciate the work. To most an axe is just an axe. There is little understanding about what goes into these things. Sometimes I spend twice the amount of time forging and shaping an axe head than I do
  13. Thanks for the kind words Collin. I used the bowtie method. Then shaped eye around a mandrel. Next step was slitting body and forge welding bit folllowed by further forging and shaping. I do not have pictures or video. I plan on doing it but honesty I'm just trying to get stuff made. I am lining up my son to help do a video.
  14. Just finished a single-hand war axe made from wrought iron and 1080. More pictures and information can be found on my webpage: https://crownforge.net/category/news/
  15. Beautiful Work! Love the transition from bit to body.
  16. I believe I spend 6-8 hours doing that finish. For the first grits I use my grinder. That is why I was asking you about the felt wheel. I was thinking I could go to a higher grit. Anyway, I then take it up to 800, and draw it back to satin with a scotch-brite pad and emery powder. I learned that from our favorite Swede ;-) It gives it a milky smooth finish. Yes, I was tempted to go with the forged finish, but honestly (and I'm not being a smart ass) that is your trademark move, and I was trying to find my own path with these things.
  17. Is it wrong to be pleased with yourself? I am really happy with this guy. I think the shape and taper are really pleasing to the eye. I'd like to own this axe. :-)
  18. No sorry. I have plans to do that in the future, but I don't have any at the moment.
  19. Just finished a new 10th Century Broad Axe this weekend. I drew my inspiration for this piece from an axe I saw at the Swedish History Museum. Here is the link to my website with further information: https://crownforge.net/category/available/
  20. That's what I was afraid of...
  21. For those who occasionally use abrasive flapwheels, what do you use to redress them? I get this glazed area that does not continue to cut very well, and consequently, will not renew the wheel by revealing fresh abrasive. I've tried to use my carborundum sticks but that does not work very well. I was wondering if there was another tip or technique.
  22. Ding, Ding, Ding...we have a winner! Thanks! I knew it was an unusual name. I saw one at Ashoken this year, and the fellow had a sign with the name on it, but because I'm getting older, I forget things. LOL. Thanks again.
  23. I'm sorry to take up space here asking this silly question, but I am racking my brain trying to remember the name of a certain vise. The vise I'm trying to remember looks like a leg vise but does not have a leg. It attaches to a bench. Can someone remind me of the blacksmith name for that vise? Please.
  24. Thanks for the info fellas! I appreciate it.
  25. Not sure where to post this question. I thought this would be the most reasonable. I purchased an electrochemical etching machine, and I was wondering where would be the best place to get my maker's mark stencils made? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Eric
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