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John Frankl

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  1. Hello All, The making of tamahagane is going very well here in Korea. All of your suggestions on breaking it into manageable sizes also helped alot--thanks! The newest problem is hamons, or the lack thereof. We are quenching in water at 100F. We are getting curvature that suggests differential hardening. But we are getting almost no discernable hamon. Any thoughts? John
  2. Thanks to everyone for the additional replies. It might be nice to have a dedicated forge for these (we will continue with them, so it is not a one time use thing) and other large/oddly shaped things. They will turn into katanas (mostly) and the welding processes are pretty modern (press, power hammer, etc.). But some of the guys are looking to go a bit more traditional. I will try to get some process photos. Best, John
  3. Thanks. As for the pic: 1. That's ruler shows that they are about 20cm across. So I first need to build a forge with a huge opening. 2. There's also a bunch of really nice Japanese swords barely visible in the background. John
  4. We have been playing with steel making over here in Korea. We found a section of beach down south with very high grade satetsu (sand iron), and we are (almost too) successful. That is, the blooms we are getting are over 30 lbs., and we are having trouble breaking them into manageable chunks. Any suggestions? Thanks, John
  5. Matt, Totally agreed. I wasn't thinking of money, but the best product I could make. Best, John
  6. My thoughts are that you might want to look into quenching oil for your quenching. Nothing against Jim's books, or Wayne's for that matter, but why reinvent the wheel? I've said it before, but using diesel, bacon fat, whatever for quenching is somewhat analogous to using the same stuff in your car's engine or your hydraulic press. Each of these requires certain specific oils, why not use them? John
  7. I am unloading some knife making videos (VHS). I have the following, all original and in great shape. 1. Knife Care by Jerry Fisk 2. Locking Liner by Johnny Stout 3. How to Forge a Frontier Style Tomahawk by Bruce Evans 4. How to Make a Hunter by Gene Osborne 5. Sharpening Woodworking Tools by Leonard Lee These are $15 for one, $25 for two, $35 for three, or $50 for all five. First to email johnfrankl@yahoo.com gets em. Thanks and Happy Holidays, John
  8. Is Jeff in Oakland? I'll be in Santa Cruz from 12/23-1/11 and could probably pay him a visit. John
  9. Are there any DVDs, videos, or online tutorials that detail the process of taking black iron sand and making a bloom? I know this has been done at quite a few hammer-ins and such, but, being in Korea, I have been out of the loop. I have good sand here and would like to give this a try. Thanks, John
  10. Thanks Peter. That sounds like it should do the trick. John
  11. Hello All, Just wondering what recommendations you all have for annealing damascus (1084x15N20) prior to making rings and other jewelry. I have an Evenheat kiln, so the process can involve precise temperature controls and holds. Thanks a bunch, John
  12. Sam, You can do a search here, on Sword Forum, on Bladeforums, and for Dr. Verhoeven's online book--all of which will save some people from rewriting a couple of pages that already exist out there. Steve, The video is cool. He has a very nice shop. IMHO, however, he doesn't really get the blade up to temp on the last two cycles, and is more doing pyrotechnics for the camera. He also had some pretty good fishmouth going, which I think he ground out:) John
  13. Hello All, I am heat treating longer blades in a Fogg drum forge and loving it. With a T-Rex burner, it holds temp +/- 5 degrees from 1600 down to tempering temps. But I now have a blade considerably longer than the drum (about 122 cm). Now I have seen nice photos of Randall Graham "stroking," and video of Walter Sorrells doing the same, albeit in a longer forge. My question is this: I am going to have to do some stroking to heat the entire blade evenly. Can I keep the forge dialed to my austenitizing temp, or will I have to go hotter and just keep the blade moving faster? Thanks, John
  14. If you are using a 10XX steel, why not simply triple normalize and be done with it? John
  15. Best thread in a while. Walter, Thanks for the info (when is your next dvd out?). A couple o f questions about your post. Does Rick Barrett get sori with the oil, or does he forge it in and just get hamon? Also, am I correct in understanding that your blades never reach a temp below 300F before their first temper? If so, do you feel you are reaching Martensite finish? If not, could you give a bit more detail about your process (I like onion rings!)? Thanks, John
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