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dan pfanenstiel

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Modesto, CA
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing in japanese style. Learning stone polishing. I make some western knives.
  1. dan pfanenstiel

    FLat bar tongs for sale.

    I second that. I've been struggling with a meager tong selection for years. I used my new JJ Simon tongs this last weekend and enjoyed them very much. Excellent for flat bar holding, but for me, when I get to finishing a Japanese style blade, they also hold the finished shape and allow for choking up on the blade. Not something a bolt or flat tong does. thanks again, JJ Dan
  2. dan pfanenstiel

    FLat bar tongs for sale.

    hey JJ, email me at Danpfan at Comcast.net
  3. dan pfanenstiel

    FLat bar tongs for sale.

    Ya, my mailbox says error ex145 or something. Oops, just read that Alan is working on it.
  4. dan pfanenstiel

    FLat bar tongs for sale.

    Sign me up for one JJ. At least I won't be able to blame my tong selection on my lack of work :-) Dan
  5. dan pfanenstiel

    Best temperature to straighten a katana

    Pretty easy to make, some 3/8 or 1/2" aluminum saw cut to vice jaw dimensions. Faces are slightly radiused. Inlet some small round magnets. Works good 'cause easy to store near the vice, can put any orientation and slide closer together or further away as needed. Thanks Alan, I have gained a lot from this forum. When I grow up (I'm only 53 now) I want to be confident enough to be able to say I'm a decent maker Dan
  6. dan pfanenstiel

    Best temperature to straighten a katana

    Knew I had one here somewhere...
  7. dan pfanenstiel

    Best temperature to straighten a katana

    Zeb, blade straightening is one of those necessary evils. If getting into long blades, it becomes a necessary skill. I have used gabe's mention of the three penny thing for years and glad for it. My set up uses aluminum posts that fit over the jaws of my bench vice, basically giving me a three point pressure system, two on one side and one on the other to press the peak of the curve with as little or as much force as I need. (Used to have a picture, can't find now). I've used this on fully hardened blades (hamon, no tempering), tempered, and antiques. The key is to get familiar with what you can get away with and you can use this set up to apply very little force, walk away with it under pressure, and come back later to see if it was enough. It can take some time. I also prefer to do this at some temperature, right after tempering or might play a torch over the blade to get up to 300f and put in the straightening jig. Some blades are easy to move, some fight you. Depends on the alloy and amount of hardening. Same goes on with antiques. whew! Most I've written in a while! Dan
  8. dan pfanenstiel

    First Real Hamon

    I use ferric, but dilute it down a bunch. 10:1 is a good start. Blade in for a minute or so and neutralize. Do multiple times after rubbing out each time. Also try progressive method, etch then rub out with last highest paper, etch and rub with powder (I use blue jean squares), etch then Flitz or finer powder. the blue jean squares are a good carrier for the powder and cheap :-) dan
  9. dan pfanenstiel

    Tools Defined

    Wait, who needs a coat where it's 800 degrees outside?
  10. dan pfanenstiel

    Some advice for a Wak I bought

    The end of the tang does look weird. The whole tang looks off to me. On the welded tang idea, does the yasuri mei, the file scratches, all follow through or look interrupted at the discoloration? Altering or welding the tang was done, but usually to preserve a signature on a good blade being shortened. I don't think this is the case with your blade. As can see, I have a few 'special' cases myself.
  11. dan pfanenstiel

    Some advice for a Wak I bought

    Just from the pics, it looks like it could be a decent older blade. Tang looks severely shortened, almost like it was a long blade cut off, re shaped and new peg hole. Usually they would not shorten that much, which is why you see two holes on a lot of shortened blades. Either that or someone recently hacked the end off. Geoff, you can get some much clearer pictures and post on nihonto message board, or find someone in your area (not antique stores) like a nihonto club to look at it. Or, If you were coming to Visalia for the hammer-in in a couple of weeks, my buddy could tell you lots about it. We like looking at old blades :-) Dan
  12. dan pfanenstiel

    Old Japanese sword ?

    Here's the headslapper I had. Can move the blocks anywhere, wider, narrower, and switch which side is the pusher. Works great and low storage requirements. I tried all kinds of fixtures and wooden blocks. Old Japanese swords are different, much easier to move, most of the time. Depends on the amount of hardening (how high the hamon is up on the blade). New blades with more flamboyant hamons, modern steels, can be a PITA. Dan
  13. dan pfanenstiel

    Question about safely cutting former propane bottle for forge

    Almost blew myself up years ago, cutting into a hundred pounder. Oddly enough, wasn't with a cutting torch. I had flushed the tank with water and Simple Green, but still had flammable gas somehow. I ended up filling the tank with water, just under the top weld line, and cutting with a torch. The advice I got after all that was to buy a new tank, of whatever size, and cut into it. They come new with an inert gas in them (which is why the filling station should ask you if it's new, so they can purge the inert gas). Dan
  14. dan pfanenstiel

    ABS California Hammer-In 2013

    Good stuff going on this weekend in Tulare, CA. We've already had talks from Rick Furrer, Kevin Cashen, Tom Ferry, Ton Guinn, Steve Koster and yours truly. Today is a wootz run by Rick and other fun. Dan
  15. dan pfanenstiel

    ABS California Hammer-In 2013

    Caleb, I don't know of any attendee list, just the demonstrators. If there were someone in particular you were looking for, you could try Mike Vagnino. Hope to see you there, Dan