Jump to content

dan pfanenstiel

Supporting Member
  • Posts

    629
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by dan pfanenstiel

  1. I use ferric, but dilute it down a bunch. 10:1 is a good start. Blade in for a minute or so and neutralize. Do multiple times after rubbing out each time. Also try progressive method, etch then rub out with last highest paper, etch and rub with powder (I use blue jean squares), etch then Flitz or finer powder. the blue jean squares are a good carrier for the powder and cheap :-) dan
  2. Wait, who needs a coat where it's 800 degrees outside?
  3. The end of the tang does look weird. The whole tang looks off to me. On the welded tang idea, does the yasuri mei, the file scratches, all follow through or look interrupted at the discoloration? Altering or welding the tang was done, but usually to preserve a signature on a good blade being shortened. I don't think this is the case with your blade. As can see, I have a few 'special' cases myself.
  4. Just from the pics, it looks like it could be a decent older blade. Tang looks severely shortened, almost like it was a long blade cut off, re shaped and new peg hole. Usually they would not shorten that much, which is why you see two holes on a lot of shortened blades. Either that or someone recently hacked the end off. Geoff, you can get some much clearer pictures and post on nihonto message board, or find someone in your area (not antique stores) like a nihonto club to look at it. Or, If you were coming to Visalia for the hammer-in in a couple of weeks, my buddy could tell you lots about it. We like looking at old blades :-) Dan
  5. Here's the headslapper I had. Can move the blocks anywhere, wider, narrower, and switch which side is the pusher. Works great and low storage requirements. I tried all kinds of fixtures and wooden blocks. Old Japanese swords are different, much easier to move, most of the time. Depends on the amount of hardening (how high the hamon is up on the blade). New blades with more flamboyant hamons, modern steels, can be a PITA. Dan
  6. Almost blew myself up years ago, cutting into a hundred pounder. Oddly enough, wasn't with a cutting torch. I had flushed the tank with water and Simple Green, but still had flammable gas somehow. I ended up filling the tank with water, just under the top weld line, and cutting with a torch. The advice I got after all that was to buy a new tank, of whatever size, and cut into it. They come new with an inert gas in them (which is why the filling station should ask you if it's new, so they can purge the inert gas). Dan
  7. Good stuff going on this weekend in Tulare, CA. We've already had talks from Rick Furrer, Kevin Cashen, Tom Ferry, Ton Guinn, Steve Koster and yours truly. Today is a wootz run by Rick and other fun. Dan
  8. Caleb, I don't know of any attendee list, just the demonstrators. If there were someone in particular you were looking for, you could try Mike Vagnino. Hope to see you there, Dan
  9. Time again to plan for the fun in the sun. Two weeks away! http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/1207-california-hammer-in/ Dan
  10. Japanese swords take a set, or get bent quite easily sometimes. The first order of business when polishing is to straighten the blade to as near perfect as possible. Sets the blade up for polishing. I've seen old blades that could be laid down on the ground and used for a skateboard park. Like Ric says there, some blades are easier to straighten than others, depends on what the smith did to it. Dan
  11. Thanks Matt, that had not occurred to me. Head slapping moment. Don't know if it's true, but the wife tried to pick up a pint of the Rutlands before the Ace closed down. The salesperson said something to the effect "oh, we're having trouble getting that anymore". Like there's a ban on it due to chemicals in it or something. It'd be my luck that it'd be outlawed or something. Might just be a lack of sales thing at Ace too. Dan
  12. My Ace hardware closed down, and my supply of Rutlands. I have enough to last for some years, but since I'm doing a demo next month on hamon using various materials, I've been doing a little checking on alternatives. If your hardware store carries DAP High Heat Mortor, give it a try. Comes in a caulk gun tube and has the properties I like in a blade clay, smooth and sticky. Dan
  13. I've been doing this a while. Purchased my share of supplies and equipment. Recently, my variable grinder motor took a dump on me, so I decided to go with a VFD and 2hp motor from Wayne. Could not be happier. I had purchased a motor and VFD from him before, so knew where to go. Here's the high points of the transaction; -good price, I checked around. -fast response from Wayne on questions and initial order -fast shipping, I'm in CA, don't know where his stuff comes from but I had it all within a week -great motor, old one had no guts, vibrated and noisy as hell. I can talk to someone while grinding now. And to top it all off, UPS does their usuall number on my motor when they deliver it. Shipping box looks like it's been through Normandy circa 1942. Motor looks O.K. at first, but the mounting feet have been broken. BTW, this motor has a neat way to mount the feet in different positions on the motor to move the electrical box wherever you want. Anyway, a quick note to Wayne and I have replacement feet in a couple of days. So, I've had two great dealings with Wayne now and thought I'd share. If you're in the market for a motor or anything else he sells, I wouldn't hesitate to use him. Thought he deserved a shout out. Dan
  14. Awesome, Walter. Preachin' to the choir here. I keep promising myself that the next one is going to get full mounts, instead of just a shira saya. Same with the geometry and aesthetics. These things are hard to get really right. Dan
  15. Ummm, is it just me, or am i missing something? I don't see where the air is going to enter for the venturi effect. If the gas side fittings, the MIG tip, will enter the iron cap and be held with a set screw, there should be an air inlet somewhere there? The fitting at the end should be a "T" instead of a straight coupler. Again, i might be missing something. Dan
  16. Hey all, a buddy wants to sell his press. Long story short, he built this thing with the help of an engineer friend years ago, but never got around to using it. Here's the specs he sent me. "Here are the statistics on the monster. First, it is a "H" style hydraulic press set up to do knife blanks, swords, et. Its supposedly rated at 100# but my engineer friend calculated more like 75-80 tons. There are two die sets…a flatter and a humper. There is a very nice bypass valve added to change speeds and pressure. It has a Baldor 17 hp single phase motor. All parts are the best quality including bolts used for the shuttle. It is bolted to a 4x8 steel table at the proper height. The tank and the motor are underneath and out of the way. Its all painted powder coat to a flame red. For it to be moved, it will need some sort of lift. The press part can br removed and replaced but it will have to reassemble the hydraulic lines. Price is $4500. I will include 2-5 gal. of sheared 15N20 plus the same in 1085 steel…sheared and ready. There is a forge furnace also. Its been (the furnace) outside for 4 years so it needs repair. The press has been tested and works fine but I have only pressed some 2/4s. Anyone who wants it can try it before they buy it if they want. I WON'T PAY FOR SHIPPING!" I don't know any more about this press than what's above. You can contact me at Danpfan@comcast.net or PM me here on the forum. Dan
  17. That was the ticket. Went in and reworked that element I put in last year and it's working great now. Coils were too tight down at the end and looser towards the front. Shoulda seen that myself. Thanks for the help guys Dan
  18. We used to get fine mesh sand for sand blasting at work. I forget the mesh grading but was available at the local hardware store. Came in 25lb bag and had two mesh sizes. Been a while though. Dan
  19. We've been working some suggestions on another forum. The latest culprit may be my replacing the elements last year and getting the coil density too close down at the tight turns in the end of the firebox. Will play with that today. Dave, is your Evenheat sitting horizontal? Another suggestion was to mount mine vertically so that the heat rises, evening things out better. Another idea was to put a firebrick down at the end, firewall if you will. I'll mess with these one at a time today. Dan
  20. Is anyone successful in using a long oven, like a Paragon 36km, in heat treating long blades? I've been fighting mine for years, trying different solutions but running into the same issue. I basically cannot get an even heat down the blade. If I pull the blade after a soak, the tip area is much hotter than the tang. Since the tip goes in first, toward the back of the oven, I think that because the heating elements wrap around the back wall, it's just naturally going to be hotter down there than up towards the door area, where the elements do not wrap around. There is a noticeable graduation of heat down the blade that I would guess being a difference of 100 degrees or more, which is not acceptable. I've tried moving the thermocouple down towards the far end, which keeps that end from getting too hot, but then the tang end is too cool. I've heard of others letting their oven run for an hour before heat treating, to equalize temps, might try that too. Anyway, just wondered if this oven is headed for paper weight heaven. Dan
  21. I tend to not worry about tang length until the blade is pretty much set. Japanese style still follows that universal addage that it's easier to take away than to add on, so leave a little length there and adjust. Dan
  22. Now that's interesting.... From someone who almost bought some Kroil recently. Dan
  23. Hey! Glad to see I'm not the only one doing the "limo stretch" on forges. Mostly a space saver for me, but the forges seem to work well, so no downside. Dan
  24. It should go well with a water quench, Joe. I just started using Aldo's 1075 and it's got some real potential. The video of me quenching in a water tank is with that same steel. Dan
  25. I cleaned mine off a bit, and did some spark testing. It may forge down into something useable but mine was fairly small to begin with. I'm already building my next furnace, hope to run this weekend. Dan
×
×
  • Create New...