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dan pfanenstiel

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Everything posted by dan pfanenstiel

  1. I too was of the dark roast in the Senseo, right convenient little unit. Can make a cup whenever you want. Now it's Sumatran beans in a grinder and fresh brewed. Don't think I could go back. My wife still can't understand how I can drink a cup before bed and sleep all night. Dan
  2. Hey Dave, here's a link to what I used Don Norris Steam Casting It's a 'poor man's' method, but I liked it and it wasn't a big investment until I could figure out if casting was something I wanted to do more of. Jury's still out on that. Dan
  3. This really shows a remarkable understanding for someone so new to the craft. While it may not be perfect, your next one will be better, and you can look back on this one after a few years and smile. Dan
  4. Niels Provos (from these forums) came over for a visit this last weekend and we talked quite a bit about blades, hamon and whatnot. He had brought over some blades he was working on and was having a hard time bringing out the hamon on one test blade in particular. With his permission, I polished on the blade some and etched a few times in dilute ferric. My conclusion was similar to some of my own experiences, that there was some indication of hardening but that there was no distinct transition or hamon. We worked at the blade pretty good to make sure but there wasn't enough there, and a person could work at it for a long time and never really get the look we're looking for. So, we cleaned and clayed that sucker up, and had another go at it. I normalized it twice before quenching in the oil and came out with a much better example of hamon. Here is the before and after, clayed and quenched. I didn't get a picture of the blade before all this, that would have been good. One of the things that is learned with experience with this stuff is to realize when the attempt has failed and try it again. If I am going for hamon on a blade, when I clean up after the quench, I can see in a rough blade what is happening. If it didn't come out, I start over. I spent a lot of time trying to coax a hamon out of a blade that just wasn't there. Dan
  5. holy crackers, that's a lot of manganese. I no like manganese....
  6. Very cool. One of those things that must be tried. I gravitate to the nanbokucho era too. Large blades meant to be used in battle, not worn for show. Dan
  7. What John said there is basically my way too. I will just add that I've spent way too much time trying to make a hamon 'pop' that just wasn't there in the first place. Maybe there are ways to make a weak hamon come out, but I havn't been too successfull. Better to take it back and re-do the heat treat sometimes. Dan
  8. The forge they were using to weld mosaic damascus wouldn't get hot enough for the smelted steel. Tom Ferry had his induction forge there as well, so he and chris pre-heated in the forge then ran it through the induction to bring it up even more. Didn't work too well, but was interesting to try. That induction forge is a neat thing, with advantages and disadvantages. Dan
  9. Ah, cool Jan. I have seen reference to building your own. Basically a washer welded back in a straight pipe about 1/2 inch, with the main hole around 2/3 the overall size and several small holes drilled around the outside of the main hole. A simple version of the sticktite. Look forward to the picture of the Johnson and dimensions. Dan
  10. Aha! You were looking for those burner tips, weren't you!? Let me know if you find someone who'll sell them, I havn't been able to yet. Dan
  11. Ya, thanks Chris! Despite the steel yield, I still learned a lot. That's a great demonstration for a hammer-in too, 'cause you've got lots of time to answer our questions, which we did. Where'd you go, John?! Didn't see you on Saturday. Got another guy asking about rolling mills/parts. Told him I'd send him your way. Was very nice to see some of the people here on the forums. John, Jan, Chris and Tim(Frogfish). Tim sat at the next table from us at the japanese restaurant where I experienced my first sushi. It went well, but sushi's over rated. Got to visit with some guys I hadn't seen in years. Met some new ones. Learned a lot. If anyone was or is on the fence about going to something like this, it is well worth the travel time, expense, and personal time. Without trying too hard, I still came away with a mind numbing amount of information and a ton of new friends interested in the same things we are. I was hearing rumors of meetings with the college where we were at to open a new ABS school there in Visalia, like the one in Arkasas. Now that would be cool for us west coasters. Dan
  12. Oh ya! I took a couple of days off before to work on some stuff to bring, and the day after for resting. Dan
  13. Thanks for those vids. Almost as good as being there. Nice job, all of you. I love that little forge too. Dan
  14. I was thinking that the 'proper' fit of habaki to blade involved a minute space between blade and copper due to a conversation we'd had about the subject. What I'm thinking I was thinking was a similar conversation about fit from habaki to saya, that the mune and ha sides of habaki fit snugly to the saya, but the sides don't, so it doesn't spoil the decorations and finish of the habaki. Or something like that. Dan
  15. And this is why, just about every time I get half way through a habaki, I think to myself "I aughta just have Patrick do this" So what was I thinking with the scratched polish, Patrick? I'm thinking I transposed the habaki fit to the saya. You never know where my brain'll go these days. Niels, on the brazing part, the copper needs to be glowing dull red, or somewhere in there, for the braze to flow. I messed up several times until I got the heat control right. We're talking wearing a #5 lense and everything you'd do like brass brazing. Can be done with MAPP gas torch because such a small part, but oxy/acetalene goes faster. Dan
  16. I'm not an expert, but I've talked to people who are..... :-) 1. I don't think there is a definite ratio, but the width is less than the height. The habaki you see when people don't realize this looks wrong. 2. The little gap is fine, hard not to have it if the habaki is shaped really close to the ha. 3. This is getting a bit out of my abilities too, but it is my understanding that the habaki is not supposed to touch the polished sides of the blade (spoiling the polish). It is supposed to grip at the ha and mune. Again, not something I can do, but has to do with squeezing the habaki to bow out the sides. Maybe Patrick will jump in on this one. 4. The decorative pattern scored in with a file is done with a special file, I believe. Very knife edge looking thing. I've tried to make something that would do out of hack saw blades and whatnot, but nothing truly successfull yet. BTW, Niels, that is an outstanding first habaki. You have done your homework on that. Dan
  17. I've always meant to go to this one, Northwest Hammer-In Dan
  18. I don't think it'd be a problem, Alex. The clay has a mind of it's own sometimes. If you were to break open that bubble, I think you'd see that it's a skin that's lifted off the main body of the clay, not just the clay fully separated from the blade. Sometimes that skin cracks and breaks during the heat treating, especially if running a long blade through a forge, bumping into the sides of the forge, etc.. I just go with it, and re-do if things go wonky. You might try drying in an oven at more like 200 degress for a couple of hours, or let the clayed blade stand overnight to reduce the puffyness. Dan
  19. I'm signed up, but realized I hadn't made a hotel reservation until the other day. Called Mike on some recommendations, he said things were booking up due to several conventions in the area. I know the Comfort Suites I registered in said I was getting the last room there. If your going, might book a room soon, if needed. Dan
  20. Shoot, failed to see the activity on this. Craig, was just a tester blade. Normalizing would be important for grain refinement and stress relief, but evidently not for good hamon. I had gotten the impression from somewhere that several normalizings were necessary, and in this case with these materials, just ain't so. Alex, looks good. I can tell that just a bit more heat or longer soak at heat would have jumped that hardness up to the clay line. You can see too where the tip area was cooler. Can do that one again or adjust on the next one, it's all good. Dan
  21. Thanks guys. Knew I forgot something, Tim. Blade is 5.75", handle is 5", Overall 10.75". Forged W1 steel, brass guard with copper spacer, ironwood handle. The customer was giddy when he saw it. Dan
  22. Here's one I got talked into by a friend. Ready for delivery. As much as I try to be a one act horse, I can't stay away from the bowies and hunters too. Dan
  23. More polishing, I wanna see! Looks like that's going to rock, John. Dan
  24. better'n my first few, by a long shot. Dan
  25. Couple more test blades here guys. Rutland test I got really excited over this last one. If I can do that at will, I CAN DO ANYTHING BWAAHAHAHHAHHAAHA!!!! Dan
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