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Colin KC

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Everything posted by Colin KC

  1. Here's one I made some time ago
  2. Jake, tell your buddy to get some soft fire bricks for the sides & some ceramic fibreboard for the top. for when he has to reline (& he will cos of the borax, which he will use to make damascus, cos he can, cos I did with my Swan ) Best to get some castable for the bottom though
  3. Jeroen, I've made blister steel using a piece of box section with crushed charcoal, the strips were @ 3mm thick & were cooked inna single burner, blown gas forge at around 1200 for a good 45 minutes (not including heat up time)& were very carburised by the time they cooled & came out (I would estimate a take up of around .8% - 1.0%) & after hardening a test piece it seemed to be (by a simple break & look test) evenly distributed (by this time it's not surprising I'd guess) Hope that helps Col
  4. Kyle, I don't see too much curvature in the blade currently (sorry Shannon) the tip looks fine. I'd scrape off the clay as is & redo it to around a third of the way down from the spine (it might be an idea to pre-heat the blade to @ 65-70 degrees C in an oven as this helps the clay dry quickly. Make it even on both sides (use a mirror) & make sure it's no thicker on one side than t'other. Then I'd quench, horizontally in water, just like you're stabbing it (in two three just like a waltz) then out & straight into oil, practice this many times with a stick - out of the forge, i
  5. As for damascus, I think a very high layer count, random in nickel bearing/vanilla would look great
  6. I've seen jambiyas that look like they're hollow ground (on a larger wheel) & others that look flat ground Personally, on such a thin profile blade, unless you've got a large wheel, you'd prolly be forgiven for going flat, imo
  7. Just another intuitive leap. Hmmm, mebbe I'm getting in touch with my feminine side a little too much
  8. I'd guess that it was to absorb/slough off unwanted impurities &/or help the furnace to settle into an optimum environment
  9. Teehee! I might start achully agreeing with Owen, that'd make him very uneasy
  10. It's as evocative of still movement as any art I've seen
  11. As I recall, there was an article in an ABANA? periodical concerning solid state welding.
  12. & of course, you noticed that I categorically wouldn't do it a second time
  13. I think it was more like 20 feet Jake & I'm not a pirate!
  14. I just wanted to highlight that section Ric, not take it out of context, but for those out there that don't unnerstand irony, this should have had a after it
  15. I'll leave that one to Jake, suffice to say, I was quite drunk
  16. Thanks Howard, I for one am grateful for alla time you've spent doing it, cos now I know it can be done (& I have my own idea on how to do it, if I ever get round to it it'll be more wasted steel & heartache, but I may reach a similar result from a different angle, I hope )
  17. Wow! Lots of edited posts here, am I missing something?
  18. Hmmm, one operation eh Sam? How would that be then?
  19. Yah! Thanks Jake I guess after my masterful stick throwing demonstration you had to wait till you were on another continent to suggest such a thing, you bad Jake you!
  20. Colin KC

    Burns?

    10 minutes + under cold running water ('course, I'm great at dishing out advice, not so good at following it meself
  21. Can I whip you? Even watching someone else do it would be ok.
  22. Greg, you're gonna try to find solid rules when the minutiae of each & every part of each & every smelt run by many & varied 'smiths here are sso diverse? Even without taking into account the end product that we're after (I want tamahagane, he wants "viking steel", they want "early iron age stuff. The stack is high, the ore is red, from Clearwater, it's black from New Zealand, it's processed inna multi million $ processing plant in Sweden, it';s dirt from my back yard. The stack is low, it's archealogical ore from Scandinavia. The furnace is 250 cu ft in Japan, it's made from scave
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