guarnera

Thanks Zeb, and Steve. I'll Look that up.

Bumped

Hello all,

       I'm back. I had a health scare 4 years ago, and thought I was dyeing, So I sold all my knife making stuff. Well my treatment went well and I'm still kicking. So being retired now, and no shop, I have been kind of bored lately. So I found in my shed a Bob Egnath Katana, that I had forgotten about. It's one he made before he passed away. The only problem is that it had a crack in the tip. I reground the tip. But now the Hamon runs off the tip. I have read that when this happens to a Japanese smith, they cut the tip off backwards, kind of like a broken back saex. The problem is, I have never seen an example of this. Do they make a kind of reverse Kasaki? If anyone has a picture of this and can post it I would be eternally grateful. I hate to see one of Bob's last swords go by the wayside. He was getting some great hamons toward the end. Also, what would be the weight of a bare katana blade? 42" total. 31" blade, and 11" tang. This blade seems a bit heavy. Although after shaping and polishing it should lighten up a little.

     Sincerely,

          Tony G.

  P.S.  If Mark P is lurking, How the heck are you doing? P.M. me.

       Antnee #1

Hello All,

I know that this sub forum is for selling knives we have made. But I have a few knives in my personal collection. A Larry Fuegan (spelling?) friction folder, a Jay Hendrikson, a D'Alton Hunter with Ivoy scales and engraved by his wife. And some others. Does anyone know of a site that I could post them up for sale ?, Or a good Purveyor, that I might be able to sell the collection to. It's not a big collection. But they are from makers that I admired their work. Even the not so well known ones. Thanks, for any info.

Tony G.

To All,

The W2, and the wrought iron anchor chain are all gone. I want to thank everyone who bought anything from me. And I want to apologize to anyone who was late, and couldn't get what they wanted. This was a big help. As time allows, I will be putting up other things, that I think I can ship. I have little stash's around the shop of different types of steel, and other little goodies, like Japanese hammers and such. As I get time to go thru everything, I'll be posting more. Thank you all.

Tony G

Hello everyone,

Most of my stuff I posted is gone. I do have about 50# of wrought iron anchor chain left. If anybody wants it, $2.00 a #, and on this last batch, I'll pay shipping. Just cause I want to move it out. I will have other stuff going up, as I go through my shop. And Thank you all.

Tony G.

Hello All,

Thanks for the great response. All the W2 is gone. I still have about a 100# of wrought iron, if anyone else is interested. I will post more stuff as soon as I can. Thanks again.

Tony G

The Anvil, and heat treat oven are gone. I still have some wrought iron, and W2 left. I will be listing more stuff soon. Thank you all very much.

I want to thank everyone for their orders. I still have some Anchor chain and W2 left, if anyone else would like some. And the big stuff except for the rolling mill is still available. Thank you all very much.

Tony G.

To all concerned,

The Rolling mill is spoken for pending payment. Thank you all for your interest.

Tony G.

To all concerned,

The Rolling mill is spoken for pending payment. Thank you all for your interest.

Tony G.

The W2 is in 2 1/8" Dia. and 2 1/4" Dia. bars. Don shipped them to me 4 bars to a box 40# ea box.

On the wrought iron, I'll go out tomorrow see what the average waight of the lings are, and how many will fit in a flat rate box. and I'll post it here.

Thanks guys.

Ladies and Gentlemen,

Do to unexpected health problems, I am forced to sell by bladesmithing equipment. This stuff is all local pickup, unless otherwise noted.

Little tree forge treadle hammer, with two 65# heads. One has interchangeable dye's. asking $450.00

Wrought Iron Anchor chain. Asking $2.00 a pound. Can ship in flat rate box. I'll have to check to see what I can fit in the box's they have. The links weigh approx. 6# 12oz. Half links = half that. I can fit 7 whole links and two half links in a $12.85 Flat rate box. When I cut a link in half I cut it on the short ends, so you don't have much to straighten. So that's approx. 54# per box. Or however much up to that amount per box you want.

I'm open to reasonable offers. Thank you all.

Oh yea, I'm located in S.California. Lancaster, in the high desert. About an hour in a half from L.A..

It looks like the wheels are turning downward, So if it throws the work, it's going down and hit the bench. This could bounce back up and get you, But I don't think it's to dangerous looking. Looks like a handy tool for making razors. I just can't see how he adjusts the space between the wheels. I may have to build one.

Kevin,

I've been doing the same thing, only I use a 1"x1/2" x10" aluminum bar, with one long edge rounded for the plunge area before the ricasso. I figure if I do something stupid, which is very likely, the aluminum is softer then the knife steel. Only difference is I've been using double sided tape. I'll have to try this adhesive you suggest.Sounds easier then the tape. Thanks.

Dave,

First, Congratulation on the dedicated shop. Every knife makers dream. I would just like to suggest that you don't put the surface grinder in the room with your other grinders. From what I hear, it's not good to put anything with a sliding table with ways near your grinders as the dust and grit will get in the ways and mess things up pretty bad. Maybe outside that room with a good dust collector. Just like you wouldn't put a mill in the grinding room for the same reason. I know this complicates things a bit, but I would hate for you to ruin your surface grinder.

Geeze I is getting old...

JPH

Hello Jim,

Join the club. My wife tells me I'm older then dirt. I disagree, and tell her I was born right around the time dinosaurs disappeared, so I'm not that old.

Tony G

So I went out to the shop today and had a hard look at a couple of pieces in the finish rack. All were damascus, all were billets I made when I first got the press going, and all of them had bad welds, cold shuts, and inclusions.

 

I knew, in my heart, there was no way I could put these pieces on a table. I just couldn't let them go, I kept thinking I could fix them. Well, I can't, and rather than spend time on them, I put them in the scrap bin. At some point I can cut them up for fittings, or some other project. Now I can concentrate on other things.

 

Hi, my name is Geoff, and I'm a Bladesmith .

 

Some of this stuff is HARD!

 

G

It's really hard to junk something that you worked so hard on. Save them, cut them up, put them in a can with some other stuff and some powdered steel and weld up some scrappenhagen damascus. Waste not, want not.

I finished the seax this afternoon:

I will be taking better pictures and measureing the specs. tomorrow.

This one is just outstanding. Tell me, is the pattern in the blade inlayed, or etched? I thought inlay, but then someone mentioned etching. Etching might be easier, but you just seem like the kind of guy that would take the more challenging path, and do it well. Not that I'm saying doing good etching is easy. There are some great artists that do really great etchings. OK, let me stop now, before I get carried away. Great work.

grilling season is all but over that means Wal-Mart is not going to sell hard wood charcoal soon, so what should do, how much is gas, do u know were to get charcoal in mass amounts in GA or SC?

There was a place here in S.Cal. that supplied restaurants. If you have a barbecue place around you anywhere, I'd ask them where they get charcoal from.

I finally got around to cutting the cable attempt up to see what went wrong, So I found the outer bundles that were twisted up welded together but the center bundle was frayed and open. I Cut above where the wire frayed apart during the hammering. So I am left wondering if the center bundle is where the problem started and how would I correct for this in the future. Shorter Pieces maybe? the cable was 24 inches long.

 

Paul

I had that happen once. It just took a longer soak. Some people say when the flux starts bubbling it ready. I don't buy that, and let it soak longer. the thicker the cable or billet the longer the soak. you have to get the center as hot as the outside.

Hello everyone. I've been lurking on this site for years. Finally signed up for an account a while back. Mainly I've just been mimicking a sponge. ;-) there is so much to learn. When I stumbled across Don's site many years ago I was looking to get into bladesmithing and built his vertical forge featured on his site. It has worked great for years and has been invaluable as a tool to learn with.

 

However, I'm looking to build a forge for a friend that would like to try his hand at making sharp stuff. My forge is fed with a blower, almost an exact copy of Don's. But I wonder about building a Venturi design. The problem I'm looking at is that we live at 7000' elevation. I don't know if there is enough air up here to make running a Venturi forge possible or worth the time to build. So I thought I'd come to you guys for some advice.

 

What do you think? To Venturi or not to Venturi at 7000' elevation? That is the question. Thanks guys.

There was a forge built by a by a bladesmith that worked a Sandia National Laboratory. The problem was that at around 7000ft they couldn't get up to welding temp. They made a blown forge that the air intake pipe ran through the exhaust opening, heating the intake air. This seemed to solve the problem. So to answer your question. You probably won't be able to get to the temp you want. But then again, with some of the venturi burner designs, maybe you could. At least forging temps.

Rather than sticking with a full circle, you may wanna go with ovals. Just a suggestion. Looking good so far! =]

I think you are right, since these were worn on the leg. I heard that some of them were a little concave on one side.

So I am Guessing the accidentally lighting myself on fire doesn't count?

Was it your beard the caught fire?