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Everything posted by guarnera

  1. Hey Guy's, I have a treadle with a 65# head. I have a combo die set on it. Half flat and half 3" diameter round. I've found the same problem. It doesn't really move a lot of metal. One of the guys on the forum makes damascus with his and draws it out very nicely. I'm at a loss for his name now. Chalk that up to old age and a bad case of CRS. However he has 1" round for drawing out and I believe he said it was a lot of work. But I take it from this that smaller dies to concentrate the impact force and feeding it less hot steel at a time might be the way to get the most out of a tread
  2. The happiest of happy's to you Don. And wish's for many more.
  3. I have to agree with Geoff, I got My renewal forms again as every year. The yellow one first saying to use that one instead of the 2007 one sent by mistake, that came a few days later. I get my Quarterly mags all the time, and the fliers with mention of all the hammerins that are going on. All the local members I know and are way helpful. I've never tried to contact anyone at the headquarters. And your comments worry me. Not that you are making them, but that you are not getting any results from trying to contact them. Stephen, after sending in your money to join last year, did you get the qua
  4. Ty, As a hammer maker you might know the answer to this question. I have one of Tom Clarks hammers. A very nice hammer indeed. He says his hammers are balanced. What is meant by a balanced hammer, and how is it done, balancing during making it that is? This may seem like a dumb question, but I was just wondering. Tony G
  5. Scott, These are all good steels, but for a beginner I would suggest the 5160. Its not very good for japanese stuff that you want a fancy hamon on, but it is a great knife steel,and its really hard to screw up the heat treat. Its what a lot of us start with, and even continue with even after learning to use other steel types. Hope this helps. IF you need more help after deciding what steel you are going to try, just ask here. There are so many helpful hands here that you can always count on. And Darren list this steel, But you have to get it from Kelly Cupples. I here from many he is a
  6. Justin, Man, for a beginner thats a great knife. Its as good as the pro's do for a nice using knife. Looks like you are off to a good start, and I bet if you took your time and put your mind to it you'll be making stuff as good as anyone here in no time. Looks like you have a natural talent for this. Keep it comming, and congradulation on a job very well done. Tony G
  7. I forgot to mention that if you made it out of metal, it would scale up and be consumed by the forge before to long. Tony G
  8. Andy, Get high alumina castable. Darren Ellis sells some. It is flux resistant. Then mold your bottom into a kinda long bowl shape to catch and hold the flux. You can also make a drain hole in the bottom of it with some pipe in it so flux drips out the bottom of the catch bowl into a can under the forge. You can put some wax paper under it, let it cure before you turn on the forge. Then when you do the paper will burn up, and your catch basin won't be permanently attached to the forge so you can remove it when you need to. I have two forges. A cast refractory one with a hole through the
  9. Scott, I agree with Craig, You don't need a big long forge. It will use a lot of gas and keep you broke. I too wanted to build a long forge when I started out, so later if I wanted to make swords I could. Well its not needed. You can only work on a section at a time so there is no need to heat the whole sword. Just make an opening in the front and back so you can pass your work out the back. A 12' or 13" forge is long enough and much more fuel efficient. If you ever do get into swords you can still make them in this forge, and then just make a heat treating forge like Don made out of a 5
  10. Well Andy, I think you could get by with a log splitter. Maybe very well. I'd go with the one from Northern. But just think about this for a minute, The whole press thing started with a converted log splitter, and has evolved from there. So why did it evolve, and not just stay with everyone using log splitters?
  11. Rick, Don't do it ! I repeat, don't do it. Bladesmithing is a form of mental illness. Once you catch this illness you can never be cured. There is no turning back. You will think about knife making all day, and dream about it at night. And as your knives get better the addiction gets stronger. You will be doomed, I tell you, DOOMED!!! Have a nice day.
  12. Hey Sam, If you really want a wife like Bill, Maybe you are in the wrong part of the country. Come out here to Southern California, or better yet, San Francisco and I bet you could find a whole bunch of guys like Bill who would marry you. Happy hunting. Tony G
  13. Congratulations Sam. KMG are good grinders and easy to change wheels and platen. I just ordered their horizontal grinder, and I'm going to get their variable speed disc grinder in a few weeks. I just hope my wife doesn't find out. The notice was on the door yesterday for the horizontal grinder, and she didn't see it. I called them to hold it at Fed X so I can pick it up. I hope all goes as smoothly with the disk. Anyway, you will really like the KMG. They had them at Sierra Forge and Fire. I was there a few weeks ago, and really liked them. Lots of fun in your future.
  14. Tough Quench is good stuff. Its a fast oil and works well for 1095. I believe Don uses it with 1095 and gets some great hamons. Don't try water or brine with 1095. It may or may not work. You would have to get everything just right or be very lucky not to crack your blade. Heat the tough quench to 125f-140f. Buy the 5 gallon size. Get a bucket as deep or a little more then your blade, Fill with oil. Heat oil. I do this by repeatedly heating a piece of mild steel to red hot and submerging it and stirring it around, until I have the desired temp. Then heat your blade to nonmagnetic and just a l
  15. Grind down the edge. If it looks like one piece of steel its welded. If you see what looks like a crack, its not.
  16. I love it. I don't want to step on anyones toes, but I learned forging at the ABS school in 1989 from Hanford Miller. He was a friend and learned knife making from Bill Moran. They were neighbors. Bill taught him that a camp knife should have a min. 10" blade. So it bugs me when I see smaller blades called Camp knives. Not that you couldn't use a smaller knife for camp use. I just have a lot of respect for Bill, and Hanford. And since Bill was kind of The father of the camp knife, I think smaller blades should be called something differant. Maybe just call it a small camp knife. Well , thats j
  17. Cose ups of the hamon please. Oh, and they sure did come out nice.
  18. guarnera


    Wow,Wow, and double Wow. You just keep out doing yourself.
  19. All I can say is WOW !!! Thats some knife. I like it. Is the wrought iron a spacer, or a ferrule ? A spacer is solid with a hole for the tang, and a ferrule is thin sheet that wraps around with the seam joined some how. I ask because if it is a ferrule I'd like to know if you had any trouble making it into thin sheet stock. Did it hold together when you thinned it out, and how thin did you make it? I have something in mind that I would like to roll out some wrought iron for.
  20. Peter, If the hawk is actually used for smoking, does the PC7 take the heat?
  21. I did read that they don't like you to have more then one knife with out a guard anymore.
  22. I understand your initial frustration. I get really burnt when this kind of thing happens, but there usually is some kind of explanation. I this case I was just hoping that Daniel hadn't had a bad accident. I've never done business with him, but just from his post here one can tell he's an upstanding kind of guy. Not to mention one hell of a craftsman. I'm glad everything turned out O.K. Tony G P.S. Daniel, if you are reading this, I'm glad you are O.K. You gave us all a scare.
  23. Bruce, Thank you, That was very interesting. Tony
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