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Everything posted by guarnera

  1. Darn, that is neat. Only things its missing is a cooler full of beer next to the lawn chair and a shotgun rack.
  2. I have a Lesson 1 1/2 hp, 120 volt, single phase motor on one of my grinders. I would like to make it variable speed. would a frequency drive work? If so what do I look for, and where can I get one. There are a lot on e-bay, but I don't know one from another. I called a place named the drive wharehouse and they said they didn't have anything for a single phase motor. Please help. Thanks.
  3. Don, I love your work. You have been an inspiration to me and I'm sure many others. If I'm correct, you use mostly 1095? You get some very, very nice hamons. At what temp. do you austinize your blades before quenching, and what do you quench into? I thought you used water to get the hamons you get, but with your question about water, I guess I was wrong. Please enlighten use if you have a safer way, that still gets such great results as you do. Tony
  4. Where on the top of the beginners place is this post? is it in the links? And if so which link? Thank you. Tony
  5. I've always been curious about how to do one of these. Is there any instructions out there, thats available on the internet, and easy to understand. I am an instructionaly handicaped person. I do better when someone actually shows me. Thanks. Tony
  6. Chuck, Thats what I thought. It seems the only way that makes sense to me. Well thank you Chuck & Matt for your reply's. Tony
  7. Thats where I've seen the gauge in Batsons book, but I don't understand how that will read how much pressure the control valve is sending to the piston if its on the input side of the valve. Could someone please explain. Please keep in mind that I am very simple minded, so explain in baby terms. Thanks. Tony
  8. Hi Howard, I'm really glad your back. Was wondering what happened to you. Figured you were just really swamped with work. Which is good. Gotta pay those bills. I figured it didn't need the ignitor, but it wouldn't hurt, and I will need it for the low temp pot. I'll start getting the parts together right after I get my press finished. Which I should hopefully have done around the end of september. I'm looking foward to having the salt pots. I've got about 10' of Crucible L6 to experiment with. Want to make a banite/martinsite camp knife. Also have 2 other projects in the works. Just nee
  9. Thanks Don. I Already looked ar Saltpot 2. I just wanted to make sure I understood it all. I don't see that a delay for the spark plug would be necessary. One more question if you don't mind. I want to make a 24" deep salt pot, so my tube will be about 26", with 2" sticking out the top. I was thinking of using 2 burners to get even heat. What size burner pipe should I use? I know if you use say 1 1/2 " pipe you would use a 1 1/2" to 3/4" bell reducer at the end, but what size should I use for the actual burner pipe itself? Thank you very much.
  10. This is for Matt Walker. Matt, It said in your article that it helps to have an adjustable control valve. I do. It said its adjustable to 3000 psi, but its set at 1500 psi. It say's how to adjust the psi. Now how to actually do this, I'm not sure. Please tell me if I am correct. I would think that I would have to put a pressure gauge between the cotrol valve output and the cylinder. Then I would have to adjust the pressure to the cylinder while the cylinder is engaged. Is this correct? Thank you.
  11. Don, I have a question about Mr. Hethcoats design. I see where the output from the Temp. controller goes to the Mercury Displacement Contactor, but where does the AC output from the Mercury Displacement Contactor go? Would it go to both the Relay interval delay for the spark plug AND to the gas solanoid valve? Thats my guess, so it would switch both the gas and the spark plug on at the same time ? Please let me know if this is correct or not.
  12. Get some Baldwins Patina from Reactive Metals. It will give you an instant brown patina on the copper, and a nice contrast. No etching needed.
  13. I'm building mine with a 5" cylinder with an 8" stroke, a 16 GPM 2 stage pump, and a 5hp, 3450 rpm, single phase, 220 volt motor. The biggist problem I had was finding an real 5 hp motor. Those Chinese imports are not really 5 hp. You can get one reasonable priced in 3 phase, but a new Baldor 5 hp, 220 volt, single phase, 3450 rpm motor was over $600.00 with shipping. But I now have almost all the parts. Just have to get my frame welded together and I'm ready to start assemble. Good luck with your press Chuck. Tony
  14. Two things I've seen that makes these a little easier for flattening steel are 1) mount it so the disk is horizontal, and 2) put a foot switch for on and off. This way you can lay your steel on it with the motor off and hold it in place with both hands and then turn it on with the foot switch, and then turn it off with the foot switch before you try and remove the piece of steel. Keeps you from getting any rounded edges when putting the piece on or removing it while the disk is spinning. I've got to build one of these. I've got a 3/4 Hp veriable speed motor and controller sitting around
  15. Jake, I'd like to try my hand at some wax carving, but I have a few questions. In your earlier post you mention a wax welder to weld the two halfs of the chape together. What is a wax welder? Also how do you attach the raised edges to the main carving? I assume its a wax wire, but how do you attach it? I'm sorry for taking up your valuable time. Thank you.
  16. Thats really cool! I wish I lived somewhere that I could give it a try. Living in the high desert in S.California, its so dry that I couldn't take a chance. Besides, I live in a residential area, so even in the rainy season the nieghbors would probably complain. How much smoke and sparks does a furnace that size throw out. If not much, I might be able to get away with it on a just a little smaller scale. I'd really like to try and make some steel.
  17. If you want a blown forge, I'd call Uncle Al the Knife Makers Pal. WWW.riversidemachine.net He has a couple of sizes, and plenty of other knife making stuff.
  18. Boilermaker, I think it would be just a little more then I could afford to fly you and your welding equipment to the states, as much as I would like to. The Hyde press is a simple H frame, about 6ft tall. Frame made from 3"x 6"x 1/4" steel tubing. Anvil table about in the middle, cylinder mounted from the top, off of a 12"x 8"x 1" plate . Its pretty simple design, but there a a bunch of them out there, so its a proven design, and I've only heard good things about them. If I knew how to post pictures I would post one. But I will photographe the building of it and eigther lea
  19. I've been gathering press parts for a year, as I can afford them. I bought the frame parts last year. I bought most of the rest of the parts, less motor and a few parts like the power switch and the mount for the pump to the c-faced motor last month. I just bought the motor today. I had to save up for this monster for a while. Since my press is going to be a 24 tonner, I want it to perform to its full potencial. In Batsons book he say's a 16 GPM pump needs 5 hp at 3600 rpm's. I have a friend that say's he has a 5 hp on his press, but its one of those Harbor Frieght motors that has now been der
  20. Between the junction of the guard and the handle some knives have a spacer, some have a ferrull. The spacer is solid,except whear the tang pass's thru. A ferrull wraps around the handle material. There is a style of Bowie I would like to try to make that is in the book " Bowies, an American Legend Unsheathed" Its on page 454. There are 3 of them. I'm pretty sure they have a ferrull at the bottom of the handle. On two of them you can actually see a seam. What I am wonering about is the top of the handle. Is that a hollow cap that fits over the handle material? I don't think it is solid, or it w
  21. guarnera


    :You_Rock_Emoticon: Hello Ethan, Thats a very nice BBQ set. And your english seems very good also. Welcome to the forum. We are all one big happy family here. :notworthy:
  22. O.K. so, my blade is forged, slow cool anealed in vermiculite, ground, and hand sanded to 400 grit. Now, I should normalize two or three times at 1525 F, soaking for 7 to 8 min each time. If I've normalized 3 times to reduce grain size, is there really any reason to do a triple hardening quench ? Haven't I already reduced the grain size enough? Wouldn't I just be stressing the blade unnecessarly with the additional quench's?
  23. Have a knife made from 5160. Going to be using a furnace, plus anti scale compound for the heat treat. The Heat Treaters Guide say's to normalize at 1600 F, and austenize at 1525 F. I know this book is talking about larger sections then knife blades. Does anyone disagree with these temps? If so, what temps do you recomend for a triple normalizing, and then austenizing? Thank you. :notworthy:
  24. Try running it at a lower pressue.
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