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guarnera

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Everything posted by guarnera

  1. My press cylinder arrived today from Northern. Man is that thing heavy. No wonder it was $45 just for shipping. Now I have the cylinder and all the frame parts. Next week I'll order the rest of the parts, less the motor. Since I'm only building a 24 ton press, I want a true 5hp motor, not some china thing thats not even 3hp in real life. A Baldor single phase, C faced, 3450 RPM, 220 volt motor is going to cost me $500+, plus shipping. Does anyone know of a cheaper source for a motor of this rating. Like I said, I want a true 5hp. I want this press to work to its full potential. I'm starting to
  2. I'm not sure which is finer, or which to use. Why not try them both and report back to all of us as to which one you liked best. I know that Bob Egnath recomended pumice to me to remove the crud from the blade after etching. I have both the 2F and the 4F, but have not used them yet. I would just mix some with water into a paste and use it like that. Does anyone know which is finer, the 2F, or the 4F?
  3. Has anyone heard anything else about the release date of this book. I want it, and I want it now!!!
  4. Thanks Don. I just preordered a copy, plus Lethal Elegance, The Art of Japanese Sword Fittings. Thanks for the heads up. :notworthy:
  5. For the longest time I've been using flat billed tongs I got from Centure Forge. Nice tongs but not the best for bladesmithing as the stock would slide around and make it hard to control the work. A few years ago I was at am ABS hammer in and had the chance to use a pair of Joe Kessler's tongs that worked great. He said they were Tom's. I called him as soon as I got home. Well to make a short storie long, he told me he had some really nice Z-Box jaw tongs that were great for knife making, and took my name and number and said he'd call as soon as they came in. Well I never got a call and kind
  6. Giuseppe, I'm glad you worked out your problem. 5160 is not a steel you want to clay coat. You are probably right in that the residual heat in the clay might have temperd the edge a little softer. Now try less soak time. I don't think you have to really soak 5160 that long. I've had good results heating the edge to a little over nonmagnetic with a torch and then quenching the whole blade ( no edge quench ), and then temper. So there wasn't much soak time. You will get a quench line this way. Not as nice as on a katana, or tanto made out of 10xx steel. 5160 is not the steel for this. Th
  7. I know that French Gray is a finish or patina on metal. I know a lot of engravers use it. Can someone give me a description of it. How is it done? How durable is it? And so forth. Thank you all very much.
  8. I have 2 pieces of track. One is 3ft, the other is 4ft long. These are approximit sizes. They are pretty heavy. I live in Lancaster california. If anyone would like one or both of these, you are welcome to them. Just come and get them. Please contact me.
  9. I live in S.Cal. Lancaster to be exact. I have 2 pieces of rail. One is about 3ft long, and the other is about 4ft long. I'm never going to use them, and they are to heavy to have to move around again. If anyone wants them, you are welcome. The only catch is, you have to come pick them up. And you should bring a friend with you. These things are heavy. Contact me.
  10. Ted, What is the size of the dies on this bench top model? And what is the price with the combo dies. Do you have any idea on what it would cost to ship one of these babies to S.California. This looks like just the thing I need. Thank you. :notworthy:
  11. Don, I hate to take up your time, but could you explain the spark plug ignition sytem in a little more detail, perhaps with a sketch/ diagram . I know how to do the controller,solenoide, gas sytem, but I really have no idea on how to wire up a spark plug ignitian sytem, or where in the sytem to put the spark plug.
  12. I have a 140 Lb anvil. The stand I had it on was a little uneven so I never properly mounted the anvil because I thought it might stress the anvil. The last time I used it it bounced around and rang so loud it made me nuts. ( or more nuts then I already was ). Anyway, over the holidays I made a new stand. I did the 2x4 stand. Five 2x4's side by side measured 17.7". So I cut 65 pieces of 2x4 that were 17.7". I laid 5 side by side and then 5 on top of that at a 90 degree angle and screwed and glued them together. I continued till I had 13 layers. It was 20.5 " high. I was lucky and it was the e
  13. From the little I know about it, if your martinsite finish point is say 400F for the steel you are using and you quench at say 425F and hold for a little while and then air cool or quench to room temp you are surposed to get a better, or more martensite transformation ( less retained austenite ). If you want bainite, now this is for crucible L6, you would quench at about 650F and hold for about 30 min and then air cool to get about 50 Rc, which would be a good spring. If you wanted to get say 57 Rc you would quench at about 400F and hold there for about 15 hours and then air cool. The TTT curv
  14. Hello Blain, Any idea what kind of steel them there allen wrenchs are? I like the hex shape, and if they are decent steel, it might be a good deal for steel if you see them at a yard sale for cheap. I'll be keeping my eyes open for some big ones. Tony G
  15. Sorry, I just want to clairify something I said. I didn't mean the nickle would alloy with the carbon steel. I meant, the 15N20, or L6, would alloy with the carbon steel, to look thicker then it actually was. Again, I don't know if this is actually true, but the layers did seem to even out in the billets I made.
  16. I'm no expert, and have only done a little damascus, but I was told by a master smith to go thicker on the carbon steel then the 15N20. The billets I've made so far have been with 1/4" 1084, and 1/8" L6 and it seemed to have evened itself out after a few folds. Its hard to tell now that one layer is thicker then the other. I haven't finished the blades yet and etched them so I really don't know what the finished product will look like. Now here's where I'm going to open a can of worms. I know nickle shouldn't migrate, BUT, I was told by this master smith, that the nickle will kind of alloy wit
  17. Mr.Loose, What diameter are your drawing dies on your treadle hammer? I have a 4" round split lengthwise with half on top and half on the bottom, 65lb head, and it really doesn't draw worth a darn. I'm thinking of going to a smaller diameter. My anvil is 4" square hollow tube, with 1" plate on top,filled with cement. Do you think it really makes any differance filling the back tude with sand. If I would of known then, what I know now I would have gotten 4" square solid for the anvil. Thanks for any info you can give me. Tony G
  18. Beware! The bandsaw blades that are talked about for making damascus are not metal cutting bandsaw blades. They are the big wide ones used in lumber mills to cut trees into lumber. Most of those are 15N20. It doesn't really matter if its L6 thou. 15N20 and L6 are pretty close. The L6 has a little less nickle and has some chrome in it that the 15N20 doesn't. I don't know what Bi Metal blades for cutting metal are made of. Grind the teeth off of a section, heat to non magnetic and quench it in water. Then hit it with a hammer. If it shatters, then its something hardenable. Do the same with your
  19. What type of adhesive are you guys talking about that can be poped off with a wrecking bar?
  20. Well, the normal hot blueing salts from Brownells don't have to be that hot. I think its under 300F , but they don't have the range of colors that the Nitra Blue does. Good luck and let us know how it workd out. Tony G
  21. No thats not what I was looking for, but it was interesting just the same. Thanks. The one I was looking for was more on grindig, or filing in the false edge on the clip after forgiing and initial grinding. Oh well, I guess I can figure it out myself. I'll probably file it in. Its going to be a long curved false edge on a big persian style fighter. But thanks anyway. Tony G
  22. Chele, Josh has some really nice knives on his sight. I don't know how he does it, but he seems to have mostly shades of blue and white. So he may be using a high nickle steel for the white and two or more other steels for the shades of blue and hot blueing. The differant types of steel take the blueing differantly ? I'm only guessing. I talked with someone at a show once that had differant shades of blue and gold in thier damascus. They said that they used nitra blue. Which you can get anything from yellow to dark blue with, depending on the temp you used. They had the blade with the car
  23. A while back I saw a tutorial on putting the clip ( false edge ) on a knife. I tought it was on Dons web sight, but can't seem to find it. Does anyone know where to find it? Thanks. :banghead: Tony G
  24. Hello Tim, Could you show the end of the butt cap? Does it have a threaded hole showing, or am I missing something? Tony G
  25. Hello Jordan, Where in California are you?
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