Jump to content


Supporting Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by guarnera

  1. Instead of sharpening into the stone, try it like you are stropping. Same angle, only move the knife in the direction of the spine or back of the blade. Water stones are sometimes very soft. Hope this helps. Tony G
  2. Tai' Very nice, and scary looking at the same time. How is the butt cap fastened to the handle? Tony G
  3. Hey Dan, Weld by hand! Have you tried your treadle hammer with flat dies for your initial welds? The limited amount of welding I'v done with only the tredle hammer and rolling mill, I set my welds with the treadle hammer and then roll to draw. I know you said the treadle dosen't move metal to well, and thats the same experiance I've had. I have 4" diamiter drawing dies ( 4" round split in half, half on top , and half on bottom ) And it dosent really move enough metal to draw with, but the flat dies work really well for setting the welds, and for flattening the billet after a few pas
  4. Thanks Jeff. I've printed it out and bound it into a spiral binder. Now I just have to read it. I hope my little brain can store at least some of the info in this book. He says in the intro its for people without any formal metallurgy training. However, it dosen't say, The Complete idiots guide to, in front of the title. So I still might not understand it. I've been waiting for this to come out. I thought it was going to be a published book, but this is even better ( cheaper ). Thanks again. Tony G
  5. I wouldn't call it an assault blower. Here in california if you call it an assault anything, its automaticaly illegal. Expect a visit from the blower police. They are on their way as we speak. Nice job. Tony G
  6. Well at least its a knife making related cut. I've done a few of those, but not for a long time. I usually cut myself doing other things. Like yesterday, I cut my hand while cutting a roll to make a sandwich to take to work for lunch. Then last knight I cut the same hand again on the corner of a metal ruler when I went out to the shop to measure the width of a billet. Some days it dosen't pay to get out of bed. Hope yours heals well and fast. Tony G
  7. Start with some 5160. Its a very forgiving steel and heat treats well in a forge or with a torch. Get some 1/4" thick stock by however wide you want. Remember that you it will get wider as you forge your edge bevel in, and you will have to grind off some thickness. Probably a bit until you get better at forging. Hope this helps. Tony G
  8. That is really cool. Please, do another with progress pictures. Not that I would want to copy it , I'm just really interested in how you did that. Great work. You is the MAN!! :notworthy: Tony G
  9. I'm sure I have all of those . I hardly look at them any more and could use some room in my bookcase. E-mail me. I'm sure we can work something out. What are you willing to trade for them? Anthony.R.Guarnera@jpl.nasa.gov Tony G
  10. Hey, Hey, I bought 200 Lbs of this wrought iron from Bridgeport ( Bob ), He is a really nice guy, and the wrought is in the form of big chain. He says its some of the highest quaility he's worked with in 20 years of blacksmithing, and yes it was really 30 cents a pound. A real steel. I now have enough to last me a lifetime of making knife fittings. I want to thank Bob for being such a nice and generous person. He said he thinks we in the smithing community should share resources, and obviously he means what he says. I doubt that at 30 cents a pound he is even covering his cost of just h
  11. This recipe is a little overkill for most welding, however if you are using pure nickle in your billets I think this might be a good flux. Jim H, I can never remember how to spell his last name, but he is the author of the Complete Bladesmith and other books, He welds nickle and used to say to use a shim of steel where ever nickle touched nickle. Then some years ago I was looking at some of his work and there was no shims. just nickle to nickle where it happened to meet where two bars touched. He told me that just add a little Sal Ammoniac to the flux. I've never tried it since I haven't made
  12. Bridgeport, I sent you an e-mail, if you read this first e-mail me at work or home. or call me at work before 3PM today 818-354-1960 thats my direct # Waiting to hear from you. Tony G My e-mail address's are in the e-mail I sent you. Thanks
  13. guarnera

    light box

    Sorry to bring up topics that have been covered already, but I tried to do a search with no luck. I hear mention on this forum of Coop's light box. Could someone please direct me to info on building this box or any ligth box for taking knife photos. I could go outside and make a tent with a white bedsheet, but I would rather work inside where its cooler then its been outside. Thank you very much. Tony G
  14. Go over to the sword forums Bladesmiths section and do a search on 52100. Howard Clark had wrote a bit about heat treating it there a while back, when he frequented that site. Getting it to hot , and desolving to much of the carbon in it is not the best thing for the steel. I don't remember the perticulars, but it was something about it forming plate martinsite Vs Lath martinsite. I'm really not sure of the spelling or which type is which, or best. I'd have to go thru all my piles of papers to find it. But one type is more brittle then the other at equal hardnesses. He gave a process for the
  15. Thanks guys, I'm not going to buff it as I find that the rivets ( S.S. ) oxidize and turn the buffing compound black and cause the same problem. I'll try the Micro Mesh stuff and then polish with the 3M polishing paper. The sanding pads have to much give and would probably take off more micarta then S.S.rivets and leave them sticking up as high spots. I need something I can use with a sanding block so I can keep everything flat. So I guess the Micro Mesh is the way to go. I"m not going to polish the micarta up to much anyway. Thanks for the sugestions. Tony G
  16. What heat source are you using for your heat treating? If you are using a forge, it is very easy to get the tip, being smaller and thinner, a lot hotter then the rest of the blade. Thus the craking near the point. Just another thing to think about. Tony G
  17. :banghead: I'm finishing a few kitchen knives. I used Ivory micata for the handles, but this would apply to working with ivory also. I find when sanding the handle that the dark grit from the sandpaper darkens the micarta. I've only sanded with 240 grit so far. How do you get around this? What am I doing wrong? And what should I be doing instead? Please, I don't want to hear that I should of used something else for handle material. I made a similar knife for my mother many years ago using the old formular ivory micarta, and it held up very well. I just told her never to put it in the dish
  18. Thanks Alan, I'll try the bailing wire. Tony G
  19. Thanks for the replys. Do we know what coat hangers are made of? I really don't want to add any unknowns into the mix. If they are simple low carbon steel, then thats fine. But if they are made from any old scrap, and you never know what could be in them, then thats not good. So does anyone know what they are made of? If its a simple 10xx, like 1008, or 1018 or something like that, it would be great. And again, thanks a lot. I never thought of coat hangers.
  20. I've heard that folding cable 4 times gives a nice hada when being used to make Japanese style blades. What I would like to do is basically the same thing only using W1 drill rod. 1/8th" drill rod with smaller diameter in the spaces between the 1/8th" rod. Heat, twist, and weld, and fold. However, I would like some low carbon or mild steel rod as some of the smaller rod, just to bring the total carbon content down a little. Does anyone knoe where I can get some, say 1/16th" low carbon rod or wire? Preferably decarbed ( no scale ). Thanks. Tony G
  21. I know this has been covered already, but I kept getting error messages or computor timed out messages when i tried to search. I just had my wife get me two links of wrought iron anchor chain for my birthday. Boy she thinks I'm weird when she asks me what I want for my bithday and I tell her to get me stuff like this. Anyway, at what temps should I work it? I'll be using it primarily for fittings. I'm going to have to straighten it out and flatten and or shape it to whatever dimensions I will need, depending on the project. I really don't want to ruin this stuff, it wasn't cheap.
  22. I have A Tim Zowada design forge. Its cast refractory, with kaowool raped around it, and a rolled sheet metal shell raped around that. It works just fine. The cast refractory is about an inch to an ince in a half thick. I think this is probably a good thickness because to thick takes longer to come up to heat and I seem to remember Tim saying something about if its to thick there is to much thermal shock or something when cooling. What ever that means. However the cast shell does get cracks in it. Thats what the sheet metal around the whole thing is for. It keeps things together if you do get
  23. Yea Dan, I want the new book on polishing. When it comes out, if you find out where to get it, let us all know. I'm sure there is going to be a lot of interested people. And thanks for the pictures. Tony G.
  24. I need to speak with Larry Harley. Could someone please let me know his E-mail address. I would have sent a message thru the forum, but what I want to ask him is personal. Thanks for the help. Tony G.
  25. guarnera

    Wayne Goddard

    Does anyone have contact info for Wayne? I'd like a phone #, but if thats not possible, an e-mail address should do. I hope this is the correct place to ask this. Tony
  • Create New...