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Everything posted by guarnera

  1. Well, thank you for that education. I new they wouldn't discard a good sword because of a broken kassaki. I just looks so wierd with the kassaki ground backwards like that, but I guess its the only way to make it so the edge doesn't run off the tip. Thank you. Tony G
  2. Are there any historical examples of Katana's where the tip was broken off and the blade just ground back to make a new tip. So the hamon now runs straight and off the tip right in the middle? I have one of the last blades bob had made. But it had a crack in the tip. so it has been ground back and now the hamon runs off in the middle of the tip. Is this sword worth putting all the time into finishing it? Thank you all. Tony G
  3. Can we see the blade please. Before and after, pretty please.
  4. Go to "Following The Iron Brush" Forum. There is a lot of talk about making Japanese alloy's there. And lots of other neat stuff. Tony G
  5. Know I know where I've Seen that face before. He has hidden the horns very well. Sam is really Satan. Really. Some one photo shop some horns on that picture and you will see what I mean.
  6. Wow, That will really get the inspector on your side. Maybe a Hello, how are you. Have a seat, would you like a beer or something. Tell him or her you make knives, ask if they are a sportsman, if they cook, strike up a conversation. Show him you grinders and stuff. Maybe not the forging stuff. Maybe even give him a cooking knife or one for what ever he or she is into. Nothing like a good bribe you know. Actually, we have the 100 sq ft law here too. When I moved in with my now wife there was a nice spot on the side of the house that I could easily fit a 10x20 building. The inspector I called
  7. Shane, I have a Baldor 3/4hp 1800 rpm and it works fine. Never have stalled it, but then you don't use a buffer with a lot of pressure on the wheel, but I always tend to have a heavy hand. Its a machine that I don't use much, but it's nice to have when you need it. The only thing you can do with more horse power is that you can use a wider buff. There is some kind of rule as to how wide per how much h.p. I think it's 1h.p.= 1" wide buff, but I really don't remember so don't hold me to that. I'd say, go with the Baldor and get at least 3/4 h.p. at 1700 or 1800 rpm. I use an 8" buff on mi
  8. I was shown how using a 1/32" nail set. Got one at Lowes, but any hardware store should have one.
  9. I've done it in a coal forge using charcoal and pressure plates. Make sure everything is clean and free of oxides. Put it into the plates and tighten down as tight as it will go. then put it into the charcoal fire and cover with charcoal. Keep an eye on it and when it looks kind of wet on the outside of the billet, pull it out and put it into a vise and tighten. Let cool and then take it out of the plates and start your patterning. Good luck. Tony G
  10. Soak your billets at welding temp longer. I've heard say that when the flux is bubbling that the billet is ready to weld. I leave it in to soak for a while to make sure the billet is hot enough on the inside. Tony G
  11. guarnera

    stupit 52100

    Band saw blades are 15n20, not 52100. High in nickel and may give you a hard time. Floorspar, and a pinch of SalAmmoniac ? I think that's the stuff. If Jim H is around, maybe he will chime in about his flux recipe. I think these are the 2 things he adds to his flux, I Think, but I don't know in what amounts, and he welds pure nickel to pure nickel in his blades. He used to put shims in between billets so the nickel didn't touch nickel. That's how he says to do it in his first book, I think. Its a nasty flux but it works. How about it Jim? Some help here with the amounts of what stuff to use in
  12. Sorry it took me so long to reply. I've been away. Yes it is a 100#. Tony G
  13. guarnera

    Mixed results

    I haven't had time to really study this, but right off the bat it looks to be accordion folded, or unfolded actually. It is puzzling !!! Tony G
  14. Geoff, Great looking chef's knife. Makes me want to make some more kitchen knives. How thick is it? Does it have a distal taper? Just doing research, so I can better plan my try at a chef knife. I've made 4 paring knives for my mother, wife, and sister in law. Have one extra, left over. Made them all with white micarta and stainless rivets, except the extra, I put ironwood with mosaic pins on it. But I need to do a chef's knife and yours looks like an excellent example to take some pointers from. If you don't mind that is. Love the handle too. Tony G
  15. Hey, I have one also. If anyone in Southern California wants one. It's to big. I don't have a truck anymore, so I can't get it refilled. I'm in Lancaster, Ca. If anyone wants it, let me know and its your for free. Tony G
  16. Oh! If you get it, make sure you get the stand with it. The stand has a hole in it. There is a counter weight for the head that hangs into the hole and moves up and down when you raise or lower the head. Other wise you will have to cut a hole in a work bench, but the stand is designed for the grinder and everything fits together. It just makes things easier. Good luck. Tony G
  17. Dave, I have this model. It's a very popular model with knife makers due to the price, and it runs on 115 Volts, single phase. You can get the same machine from Harbor freight for $1000.00 or less. It is sold by a lot of company's from $1000 to $3500. It's a good little machine. I haven't had mine to long but you could probably do a half of thousandth with it. But most guys change them over to use a belt. I just posted about that a little while ago, and there are links that show how to do it. That's my next project. Its slow going, but you will have perfectly flat. I have in the past used
  18. Nice forge. Have fun with it. I would just like to mention something, that I have mentioned before. It makes things a little easier. Get some high alumina castable. Its pretty flux resistant. I think Darren has something. Make the bottom of the forge round like the rest. No bricks or anything in there. Now mix up the refractory, put wax paper in the bottom of the forge and then pile in a bunch of refractory. Shape it as you like and bring it up the walls a little, so it acts like a cup to catch any flux. Let it dry and then fire the forge and cure. You may have to experiment with what ever ref
  19. Great picture. I work at NASA JPL. The place that I suspect is run by Alliens, and make all that stuff that goes up into space. Great place to work. We have some amazing photographs all around this place. I'll have to bookmark this site. Thanks. Tony G
  20. Wow. They are all beautiful. But I really like the Macana. Very well done, and unusual. You go to school and still have the time to turn out stuff like this? You not taking enough class's. Great work. Tony G
  21. guarnera

    Long Saex

    Well, Leave it to you Don to take it over the top again. Your work never ceases to amaze me. Wonderful knife. One question. On the Habaki, is the design carved in or is it raised from the back? just wondering! Tony G
  22. You could cold forge! Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Tony G
  23. This is why it is a good idea to know your steel. Michael, I would have to disagree with you on the tempering temp. If this is 5160 I would temper at 350F, for about a 60Rc hardness, and then draw the spine with a torch until blue. The color is correct. A straw yellow, but that color comes at 350F for me. And colors usually very. Its a time and temp. thing. But if I was going to draw the spine with a torch, I would quench into warm oil, then temper in a oven at 350F for an hour, 3 times, then I would draw the spine with a touch to blue, with the edge in water. I guess I'm not really disagreein
  24. Its good to hear the axe went to a good home. I really liked it a lot. Just my pocket book wouldn't allow it. Enjoy it Ted.
  25. Very nice dagger. I like it, and I'd wear it proudly. And I think I'm a manly man, but I'd wear it and let anyone that thinks its a sissy knife just say so. Tony G
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