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DGentile

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About DGentile

  • Rank
    FERRUM - Daniel Gentile [Bladesmith & Machinist]
  • Birthday July 16

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  • Website URL
    http://www.ferrum-d.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Walchwil, SWITZERLAND

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  1. Steve, I don't know whether anyone has ever attempted that, but at least to my knowledge this would be very difficult to implement in a pneumatic tool air system. The problem would be to use some sort of uni-directional valve on the inlet and outlet of the cyinder, then needing some sort of expansion tank on the outlet to handle the compressed air and prevent it from being over-compressed... you´d then need an overpressure safety valve in line... and that yet you’d need to feed in more air to the inlet... and that means some sort of exhaust at some point. I bet you could
  2. Andre, Good choice on the nylon for the ram guide. On the cylinder: if it feels sticky or hard to move about, you have probably found your main issue already. again, as mentioned - whatever cylinder type you use - it needs to be moving very very easily, as pneumatic systems don't like to overcome friction if you want speed. For most cylinders you can buy rebuild kits that include a new set of gaskets, often the piston sliders and the rod bushings... you can get away with *some* DIY fixing if it's sticky... have you disassembled the cylinder yet and checked the ins
  3. I don't post often (actually hardly at all - lack of time mostly)... but I've been running a 110pound air hammer that I had built while back, very successfully... so I thought I might be able to provide some help... First, your cylinder looks like the hydraulic rather than the pneumatic type... this itself can be the main issue .. whilst functionality wise both are similar in what they have to do and how they achieve it, the air (pneumatic) cylinders are optimised for low friction gaskets and the piston moves very very easily (even by hand), where a hydraulic cylinder doesn't
  4. Geoff, it didn't put me out of work - it gave me a third degree burn on covering about half of the length of my inner arm... that was a nasty nuissance and a bitch to keep clean... and I discovered I'm better at doing debridement than I would have expected ... the problem was anvil base had worked itself loose (only held in by bolts, on welded on brackets... they didn't take the constant beating well, two had loosened up mildly, and one had a crack that I had failed to register when I did some maintenance... So working a bigger billet held with tongs, the anvil shifted and it kind of
  5. re-linked / reinserted the previously broken photos... (had moved photo hosting... sorry)
  6. Guys, I've finally did manage to update the broken picture links... all should show up again. sorry.
  7. Danke dir Jokke, für die Links... (thanks Jokke for the links...) Die Firma (inzw. sinds zwei): http://berghuetten-gmbh.de/ und http://www.hightech-ceram.de/index-de.html hab' denen mal eine mail gesendet ... mal schauen. Beste Grüsse Daniel
  8. Tristan Thank you for your reply. I hadn't thought about the possibility to make my own crucibles... I'll have to look into that and the availability of the materials locally... I've got a good source for the graphite crucibles though - prices are "moderate" (not cheap)... and have had good results with those so far... But of course, they break - and if I could make my own it would be even better. Charcoal / coke / etc. is completely out of the question. I would need to install a completely different vent-system to the current shop and charcoal in such quantities is far more ex
  9. Well it's this time of the year again, when winter should have died half a decade ago and lil' birds should be singing... But it's still to cold. Well... that makes it the ideal tool-building time for me... as I'm not too keen on getting out of the shop Shitty weather aside: This is something I've been pondering for a long while.... I'd like to get something like a "production" wootz-making furnace. I've made wootz like three times (one time not that successful, the other too quite ok - but really just minor quantities for experimental purposes.) So I've got a slight bit of an ide
  10. Dan Impressive - beautifully impressive... one of the nicer looking shops I've seen ... must be a pleasure to work in such an environment. congratulations!
  11. JJ, The book is still very much valid when it come to practical stuff... sure it doesn't feature the latest info in Carbide-Cutters (changeable or full carbide), CNC, etc... but for basic machine operation it's a good ref. I've looked at that book, and reg. the PDF - check out pages (PDF) 34-62 (working meth. of a cutter) Page 163 (cutting Speed HSS) ... Stuff to look out for: What too for what purpose Cutting Speeds Mounting stuff and centering/aligning the cutting tool with the work-piece Also as Dan said, climb milling is a no-go on most normal machines... My Acier
  12. JJ, Yes you can cut external curves - but you need a special contraption: rotary table... Quick-Change collets... at least the one on my mill (an Aciera F3) doesn't add a lot of chatter / vibrations... it's actually true enough to keep stuff within a very good precision. But my ER32 collet holder was rather expensive... I had a cheap one before that - and it induced a lot of problems on it's own. ... I'd advise to take some machining classes or at least get a few machinists handbooks... these books can give you the basics on type of tools for what kind of job, setting up the w
  13. Give it a bit of TLC... the rusty aspect makes me cringe ;O)
  14. I'll keep this short: I'm with owen, Jim and Howard here on this topic - I find voting for stuff not in the best interest of the board... some sort of a pinned archive - maybe why not.... but hall of fame: there's simply too much "ego-gone-wrong-potential" in the mix of voting and stuff... I have never been to keen on social-networking features of the interenet expect "normal" Forums... Don't see a need for all that +like, rating,etc... stuff
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