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Jeff Pringle

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Everything posted by Jeff Pringle

  1. Those final shots of the blade getting sharpened and turning in the light are just too cool and show off the blade quite well, kudos to you and the director/cinematographer/cameraperson
  2. Hey Owen! This axe is also 40mm at the haft end of the socket, from France and presumeably 17th or 18th C. The top was smashed in from the back post-fabrication I think, but it looks like the top of the socket was pinched and inserted into a cleft in the blade material... let me know if you'd like better photos, more details etc. The barely visible traces of a seam can be seen on the top surface in this shot:
  3. If you use a vacuume induction furnace, back-fill your shop with argon and use only mirror-polished hammers and anvils you can forge that clean too, Sam. Okay, you got me - I did rub it with abrasives after I forged the thing to shape. The mokume can be used to trap the tie-down cords, or it can just be decoration, or the cords can be tied together to make it a largeish necklace knife - it is very adaptable - there's also a belt clip on the back. Wonderful to meet you too, Jim! That was a stellar event.
  4. Space Tuaregs, what a great concept! Quick, some one write that awesome novel, the one that turns into a trilogy, which evolves into an increasingly ponderous and lame seven or eight book series about the space Tuaregs, their dynastic struggles and interactions with their galactic neighbors Sam, that is all forged, what is this grind you are talking about? Deker – at least you are within driving distance to the original bone store, Maxilla and Mandible in NYC, right? Thanks guys!
  5. While at the local animal parts dealer, I picked up a duiker horn and decided it would make an interesting handle for a blade I had kicking around the bench, this is the result. The ebony I used to join the blade to the horn was such an exact color match, I carved it to mimic the horn and create the appearance of a one-piece handle. The blade is wootz with an edge-quench, pattern finished as usual in a subtle way that is hard to photograph! Copper/bronze mokume accents on the sheath of poplar wrapped in indigo-stained leather. OAL 25cm, blade 13cm
  6. It occured to me that the mini-axes might be grave goods, stand-ins for the full size items when you didn't want to send your loved one into the hereafter with the family's one good axe. Just a possibility, though the idea that they were practice pieces is also appealing, since they are made with the same techniques as the full-size ones and they are a little sloppy, at least the two I've handled were a bit slap-dash in the making. And to more directly answer Jake's Q about the wrap style, visual and physical examination of dozens of Migration and Viking period axes from Scandinavia and the
  7. Isn't this the year we announce our plan to take over the world? ;-)
  8. Schedule a trip to California, and with a little lead time we'll make sure there is a smelt going on when you get here
  9. Sure, Thålin Bergman lists quite a few swords with welded-edge construction in her radiographic survey of Swedish weapons, and due to the limitations of x-ray studies she probably didn’t catch them all. For instance, the sword in “Metallografisk analys av inläggningar i vikingatida svärdsklinga, inv. nr SHM 907 Go, Hogrän sn, Ålands” by Mille Törnblom is iron with steel edges but Thålin Bergman only mentions the inscription. Since blooms were chopped into smaller pieces for trade they probably did like to work with sub-sword sized material for most forging operations…
  10. You've heard of 'tramp stamps?' This was a 'gromp stamp,' so we'll have it laser removed for the next smelt Have you hammered on your taconite ingot yet, Sam? Don't let it rust back to ore!
  11. I found some 2" OD ~1/4" wall copper pipe at a scrap yard, and Jim forged a taper into it.
  12. The other problem I run into with helpful phase diagrams is in relating the diagram to the slag in front of me. Without sending your slag to the lab for chemical analysis, it is hard to be sure where it fits, and hence what needs to get added to improve things. I guess if you are melting metal powders you can add flux ingredients to the right proportions for the slag you want, but with self-slagging ores it can be hard to know where you're starting from...
  13. Congrats on getting the home-made steel bug!
  14. I think it is a short stack, less than a meter from top to tuyere...We got about 15 pounds of very low carbon iron, once I separated the slag from the not-as-dense-as-we'd-like bloom. Ore to metal, well I forgot to assign anyone to the record keeping role, so we don't know how much went in, and it turns out a noticeable percentage of the ore was just sliding down the back wall of the furnace to the bottom So the next run (we did save the stack) we'll use smaller charcoal & more blast and see if things don't improve. I think it is something in the water out here, Ric
  15. I have seen what look like decarb zones around corrosion pits in the steel of artifacts in the 700-1200 year old range, if that is the case there could be an effect on apparent hardness in younger artifacts, but I am pretty sure I have not seen the topic addressed in the articles I’ve read. I'll look into it If you are forging the blade from tapered squarish stock, you can just turn it on the corner when you change from pre-form to blade shaping, and leave the end square as you thin out the blade behind the tip. Then the transition zone takes care of itself, you don’t really need any s
  16. That is a beautiful knife, the texture of the steel deep enough to swim in!
  17. I see; Phosphorus is one of the common 'contaminants' in iron Huh? Now why on earth would I want to do that? I was just calling the thing by its name, no evidence needed for that - I hope it does not bode ill for your curious crusade. Whether the style did or didn’t go though chainmail is a topic in which I am not terribly interested. The various point designs have some great cross-sectional geometry possibilities and make a dramatic visual impact, very fun to forge compared to those flat-sided knives we usually see or make, so I recommend them to you for those reasons if you can ge
  18. Well, stop it please, this thread was started to discuss a certain class of daggers which were used in single combat or maybe even sneak attack , and all this armour & battle stuff is way off topic! Not true, phosphorus iron was long in demand for cold drawing music wire back in the 'iron age' (pre-Bessemer and pre-piano, the higher tension of which demands steel) Does anyone want to discuss how to forge one of these mail piercers?
  19. Ah, that is what the white grains are! Feldspar has a much higher melting point than SiO2, and is usually the first mineral to crystallize out of melted rock, geologically speaking, so maybe try again with pure silica sand? Or add something that will flux the 'spar...
  20. Regarding the size, yes they are small, 3x2mm on the top one. They are both ~30cm spears with ~20cm blades. I disagree that the teeth were formed individually, at least on the top one (I haven't really started theorizing on the bottom one yet, except that it does not look like it was done the same way as #1). To me it looks like the steel had its teeth forged in, then was itself impressed into & welded to the iron. The way the line alternates round & pointed as it zigzags makes me think the steel was shaped by forging a cold twisted bar into the hot steel. I saw a couple saxes with
  21. That is not really true, or at least it is not a safe ‘blanket’ statement, even more so in this contex since Indo-Persian mail is made of lighter gauge wire than European in all the shirts I have seen. The one shirt of modern mail I’ve looked at was the flat ring riveted stuff from India, the rings were made more massive and uniform than historical examples, and the metal actually was medium carbon steel, not mild, judging by the type of sparks it threw, very strong stuff compared to iron wire. I would without hesitation call it harder to penetrate than any of the dozen or so 14th – 17th centu
  22. I think the tooth metals are equally deformed (though the photos don't really show it), check out the left most edge tooth, or the two further towards the middle (the ones that aren't there any more), that is where the layers are showing best on the steel side.
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