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Duo Maxwell

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  • Location
    USA, Maryland
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    Weapons of Steel!
  1. I am looking for a milling machine or cnc that can mill swords and knifes accuretly. Please if you could share your knolege on them.
  2. I know how it is same thing here my computer is old and I was very sick last week, I guess it's the sick season everywhere. I just wanted to thank you for all your time and effort Jonas. Â Hopefully when I finish it I will find out how to put some pics up for you.
  3. I have been very busy drawling up a blueprint of my new knife im very excited to start working on it and sorry for not responding for a few days but this guy over here wanted a bowie with a straight back so when I was ready to harden it I get a request for a serrated back with a gut-hook, so I have been doing that....Anyway Whoa! That knife looks great! Â That handle is damn good. Im probable going to try plotting a bunch of dots on a sheet of aluminum or metal. Â Then take it to a drill press with a 1/16in. bit and set it so it only drills at the depth I need or use Pat's idea and hit it with a punch but its going to be hard making the same depth every time. Now I was thinking after I have the template I could clamp the plate with the rubber and another 1/4in. blank plate together very tight and put it in a kitchen oven, if that will even work? Â Now I am aware of the danger but im going to look for an old oven somewhere and set it up outside after its calibrated. Â Hopefully the metal will heat to the temp and act like a vulcanizer...sort of. Now you don't have to try to convince me on the handle assembly that's why I made this tread. Â For the handle the slabs should extend past the front of the handle then glue the spacer in-between? Â Doing it this way will there be a visible line or will the glue blend it in along with the bumps? Im just trying to brain storm here and I have a fever so sorry if I don't make any sense.
  4. Those bumps look great Jonas, Â I never knew what a vulcanizer was or did until now. Do you think you could use the same method with a 1/2in. thick x 6in. tall x 6in. wide sheet of neoprene then after the bumps are made bend the neoprene to wrap around the front of the handle or will you have to make the bend in the vulcanizer with some scrap metal as thick as the knife handle so it will stay in shape, then cut the sheet down to the same shape as the handle you want? The bumps height looks perfect but what do you think you could use to get bumps that are 1/16in. wide and are only 1mm or 1/16in. apart in every direction? Â I couldn't find anything on a press toll but I found a few places that sell vulcanizer's but there $300 and up so Im not to confident I can get my hands on it unless I build one. Thank You again for all you help Jonas it is really helping me out.
  5. I spoke to a few conveyor belt companies the other day and they don't sell any rubber besides rolls, but they did say they had some REMA Tip-Top SC-2000 or SC-4000 cold bond adhesive and REMA Tip-Top Readi Fast Metal Primer. Â They say that stuff is the best for bonding to metal, but the metal should be sandblasted to a 2-mil blast profile first but that's for maximum performance. Â Im thinking I can just keep the handle rough? Cant wait to hear about your experimentation's
  6. The knife if a 16" long bowie type with a full tang construction and the finished handle is to be a rubber grip with the rubber wrapping around the front of the handle where the fingers would be but the back of the handle has the tang exposed to be a bit more than 1/8" showing. Â The tang is curved at the top and bottom so that the rectangular rubber handle just slips on the front. Â I was going to just router out a 1/4" thick slot in the block of rubber and then shape it to what I want. Â The only problem now is getting the texturing effect I need. Â As for the purpose its to be just a tuff all-round working tactical knife with a lot of suvival/specal features built into the blade for tripwire, rappelling and other things of that nature. That hot punch idea sounds pretty good Patrick, but I cant decide now if I want the look of dimples or bumps. Â I would like bumps but they might be a little more complicated.
  7. I have checkered wood handles before and its not the look Im going for. Â Its hard to explain Jon M. ....the texturing effect Im going for is like little differently sized circle holes like if you just barley nick the woods surface with a drill bit, but I didn't want to make hundreds of differently sized holes with a dremel if there was a better way and it all for looks not really for better performance.
  8. I appreciate everyone's responses it really has helped me out a lot especially yours Patrick. Â I was looking at some places that could do the injection molding for you and the only thing you need to do is make a replica of whatever you want molded on a AutoCAD file then send them that and they can convert it to there cnc mold milling machine but it is very expensive as you all say and they will probable only sell the things you want made in big quantities. Â Im not looking to mass-produce my knifes. Hey Jonas can you give neoprene any kind of indentation or some kind of texturing effect in its normal state to make it more grippy without injecting it into a mold. Â Would you have to melt the out side of the shaped handle with a torch then rub a thing on it that has the reverse of the texturing I want or something. Â Something like that would be good because first I will try machining it out then afterward give it a texture effect and if it don't work I will get into molds n injections. Â Another question for you Jonas, Â Â What would be the best shore and durometer range for a grip that would be firm but if you squeeze it hard it will give for a better grip? Â Also what would be the best kind of Neoprene, Commercial-Grade Neoprene, High-grade Neoprene, Super-Soft Neoprene, Ultra-Strength Neoprene? Â Is Urethane rubber like Jordan was saying any good for a handle, What's it like? Â Is it easy to machine like neoprene? Â And where can you find neoprene and urethane rubber in big sizes because I can only find it up to 1" thickness I need 2-3"? Â Sorry to ask so many Q's but your my RubberTechnican now
  9. I was thinking if I could find a neoprene block about 2 1/2"wide x 1 1/2"thick x 6"long I might be able to machine it out but Im still at a loss at how to give it a dimpled effect?
  10. I have a request for a knife with a synthetic rubber grip that has a dimpled textured effect and a shape that will have to be molded. Â I needed to know if anyone can help me. Â I don't know how to go about this correctly and instead of making my own way up and making a mess I would rather ask someone who has experience in this area. Â I need to know what's the best synthetic rubber (neoprene?), What to use as a mold (plaster a Paris?), What to use as a copy of the grip for the mold(clay?) and how to do it start to finnish. Thanks you for anything in advanced
  11. 1) Bead blasting sounds good but is it complicated and expensive? 2) Never done any eching I will have to look in to that and get some more info on it. 3) Has any one used the 3M XR Wheels (I assume that's the wheel you where talking about?) they sound like they could ruin a temper? 4) I tried to look for the 3M Skotch-Brite sanding pad things but couldn't find any.
  12. I have made a bolster out of 5160 and finished it with no scratches kinda mirrored finish but I didn't want that I was going for a dull unreflective finish.
  13. I have a bunch of new 5160 and no guard material so to solve this I was going to weld a bunch of pieces together but I wanted to know if you can weld 5160 to its self I have no flux or money. Â There in pieces 1/4"Thick, 2"wide, 6"long and I have 8 pieces now do I just stack them up and put them in the forge until welding temp and should I hammer them together. Now after all that's done and I have my guard I wanted to spring temper it should I just harden it like a knife and temper it until its not hard and very springy how would you go bought doing this.
  14. Well, after I read this thread I told my friend about it and we started to come up with ideas. Â After some dumb ones I came up a dumb one that was worth trying out. Â I started to look for something I could try it with so I went thru all my crap and found 8 knifes and an old wakazashi. Â Now I have no Idea what its made out of but it was full of rust and it had dings all on it but after an hour of grinding it was ready to go. Â I made this whole getup with junk in my shit load of trash. Â Â Â Since my shop was gone I had to make up a forge so I dug a 5'x1'x1' forge in the ground under one of my trees in the yard. Â I placed the forge rite under a branch about 15' high and 6' from the trunk. Â I used a pipe with a T connector at one end and a Y connector at the other and used two hair dryers for the charcoal. Â Then I drilled two holes at one end of a 2" wide 6' long pipe and tied it to the tree limb above the forge and I drilled 2 holes at each end of a 1"x 2"x 6' piece of wood and tied it horizontally to the trunk and the other end to the pipe so that it wouldn't sway in the wind. Â I rigged a pulley at the top of the pipe and ran a wire thru the top and out the bottom to hoist the blade out of the forge and get in to a position where I could spray it. Â Â Â I made a jig for the blade to rest in when it was pulled up. Â It was just a 2'x4"x4" piece of wood with a slot routerd out as wide as the blade was going to be with the clay. I drilled a hole in the middle of the wood and screwed it to the end of the pipe (thank God it was threaded). Â I practiced the proceeder with my friend so it would run smoothly. Â So I put the clay on and wrapped the wire around the middle of the blade so that the blade would fit in the jig with the edge down and I put it in the fire. Â Â Â I heated it up to none magnetic and a little more then my friend pulled it out and I guided it into the jig and when the temp looked rite I sprayed it with the pressure washer. Â I sprayed it from rite under it and the nozzle was set to make a cone shaped jet stream of water to cover the whole thing. Â I held it there till I couldn't hear the water evaporating (about 4 seconds) then I switched nozzles to a flat jet spay and blasted the clay off from the tip to the handle. Â I Put the gun down and my friend lowered it in to the cheaply made tempering tank. Â I cut the wire off and closed the lid and it only took about 15-20 seconds from the fire to the tempering. Â Â Now I didn't check if it was hardened at this point because I thought it would crack. The tank is just a 5' long x 2' wide x 1' deep box made out of half inch plywood with a lid on hinges. Â I filled the bottom with charcoal and made a rack to put the blades on. Â There was an oven thermometer in it and I let the blade stay in for an hour @350-400 degrees. Â I have a controlled temperature pressure washer that I do peoples decks and houses with. Â Â Â The water was set to 100-150 degrees I wanted it in the middle of that but I only goes by increments of 50. Â Without the nozzle it pumps the water out a couple of hundred of psi in a stream but with the nozzle it shoots the water out at 3000psi. Â Â Â Â Â There was no scale, no cracks, and no warping. Â The curve was small but I didn't want a lot of curve for a wakazashi. Â I polished a 2" section in the middle where the wire was to see if there was a temper line and it was really faint but It might be because of the steel. Â It was all a crazy experience and the only problem was getting soaked with hot ass water.
  15. I just hardened my wakazashi with my pressure washer I do decks with it worked pretty good and then I switched nozzle's and blasted the clay off. Â It went into the tempering tank in less than 15 seconds and received no cracks.
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