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Robert Dark

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Everything posted by Robert Dark

  1. I started with the Grizz (ran twice the speed of light). I made a lot of metal disappear with that thing (a lot of it unintentional) I bought a 2 hp variable speed KMG around '06 and have never regretted it. Built like a tank.
  2. Well Alan, since I no speak-ee dat language, I can't tell you much about the goobergashi, or the thingy-ushi. I can tell you that "I like it". Can't wait to see it finished. I may just have to try one sometimes (after I learn the proper terminology), Robert
  3. O-1 can self-destruct if you wait too long between the quench and temper. Several years ago, I helped my brother-in-law forge an integral from round stock. We followed all the steps through quenching. He said that he had company coming and needed to leave. He would put in the oven when he got home (5 minutes away). Company was already at his house, and he forgot to put it in the oven. Next morning, it had so many cracks in it that it looked like a spider-web.
  4. Sean, To practice one method, take a clean piece of blade steel and "daub" some cold gun blue on it in a random pattern. Give it a few minutes to dry, then immerse in full strength Clorox for a few minutes. When you pull it out of the Clorox, you will think it is ruined. Wash it, dry it, and repeat as necessary until you get the desired effect. Once you have it, put a good coat of oil on it for a day or so. That is how many do a "forced" old look to their blades. Robert
  5. The "Dandelion" Had a couple of pieces of an old (50's) rusty sawmill blade left and decided to make a quick implement for digging and cutting up dandelions from my lawn. (Thus the somewhat "mundane" handle shape and material) As always, I never seem be be able to stop at just a quick down and dirty grind, heat treat, and put it to work. Nooooooo..... not me...... This one is 9 1/4" overall with a blade of 4 3/4" from tip to handle. The clip is as sharp as the lower portion of the blade. The texturing on the flats was done by nature (RUST). Usually, someone will ask: What is the steel?........... Answer.... I have no idea, probably something similar to 1070 or 1080 with, perhaps a tad of other alloys tossed in. How did you heat treat it?............Answer... After I annealed it in my Evenheat, I profiled, ground, and soaked in vinegar to clean up some of the excess rust. I normalized 3 times, then soaked @ 1475° for 6 minutes. Queched in Parks 50, ran two tempering cycles at 400°. Why did you use a sawmill blade rather than a known steel?........Answer....Because I can. Hope you like................. Robert
  6. Is that an Inductotherm furnace? My Stepson installs them for EMSCO, a part of Inductotherm. Cool stuff. Can't wait to see your NEXT finished product. Robert
  7. Thanks gang. I had fun with this one. I'm still not sold on the look of a no-clay differential hardening. But then, of course, I never was satisfied with the results of "MY" clay work either. Robert
  8. Forged this one out a few days ago and thought I would share it. 1095 - Differential H/T - No Clay Distal Taper to Tip and Tapered Tang Ironwood Scales Stainless Bolts OAL - 10" Blade Tip-to-Handle - 5 3/4" Robert
  9. Thanks guys. I have received more good comments than I expected. I put a final edge on it yesterday and made confetti from empty beer cases. Still took hair from the arm when I finished. Robert
  10. Hey Big-Un, I'm waiting for you to do a DVD on how you make your sheaths. Better yet, why don't you just come on down to Bama and make one for me.
  11. Been a while since I posted one here. Here is one that I made just fooling around between letting epoxies, leather, and various other things dry or cool down. It has a slight hint of "Pukko" in there somewhere. Not sure, never done one like this before. Forged 1084 (about .135 thick on the flats) Damascus in front of handle Handle material is a piece of Walnut that I got from Don Hanson a couple of years ago OAL - 8 3/4" Blade Tip-to-Handle - 4 1/4" What say ye ? Robert
  12. Beautiful creatures. Thanks for posting that wonderful photo. Let her rest......... She has enough to deal with dodging us humans.
  13. Big Boy, you are a "Gumby"......... Or maybe just a big old Teddy-Bear. Lookin' good my friend, Robert
  14. Alan, My old shoulders are trying to go out on me, so I can't forge as much as I would like. I have had numerous requests for stainless, so I bought myself an Evenheat oven last year and have been using quite a bit of stainless as of late. I have seen Kenny do a couple of sheaths in that style. I usually stitch with my Tippman Boss, but this one is "painfully" hand-stitched. I make my pattern, cut it out, tool it, and then stitch it together. If everything goes right, the knife actually fits. By the way, that small bit of tooling around the stitches was done with a very small "Torx" bit. Thanks for the kind comments. Robert
  15. A few months ago a new maker asked if I could give him a few pointers on grinding blades. He made the trip across the Georgia border (Green Card in order) and brought with him a couple of blanks that he had designed and had profiled. My first thoughts were that the simple drop point design was not bad for his first. I thought the material was a bit thick (somewhere around 3/16”) for such a short knife. To me, the blade height was a tad tall, and the handle just didn’t feel quite right in my hand. Overall, it was not a bad design, but it just wasn’t my “cuppa tea”. We spent the day grinding and at the end of the day, he gifted me the blade that I had ground. Later, I heat treated it, sharpened it, and cut all kinds of stuff with it. I was fairly impressed with the edge retention. I still didn’t put handles on it ‘cause it just wasn’t my style blade. Fast forward to being hyped up and inspired after the Blade Show. I ground the drop point into something a little different, changed the handle profile slightly, ground the mill scale off of the ricasso area, repositioned the handle holes by cutting a rectangular window in the handle, and tapered the tang. I did all this while the blade was still razor sharp. (Yea, I know, that wasn’t the brightest idea). Here is the result. I must say, it feels quite nice in my hand. S-35VN Steel Full distal taper on the blade with tapered tang Linen Micarta scales with black liners Hammer domed nickel silver pins OAL – 7” Blade Tip-to-Handle – 3 ¼”
  16. Nice touch Karl B. I like the two-toned colors. He knows his way around leather stamps. You can tell that "This ain't his first rodeo". Robert
  17. Thanks for the kind comments guys. I will say that the first billet had a delam problem in one area that just would not grind out. I visited Brad (only a short drive from here), and he made it right and apologized for the inconvenience. He even carried me out for lunch. Brad is a super nice guy, and even though every business has its problems from time-to-time, he seems sincere in trying to do the right thing. Robert
  18. Its been a while since I posted a knife here. This is one I just finished for a customer. Alabama Damascus 416 Furniture Ironwood Handle My Sheath OAL - 12" Blade Tip-to-Guard - 7" Thanks for looking......... Robert
  19. That is just INSANE. It is amazing at the talent displayed here. Thanks for making my day. Robert
  20. Well, it sure came out nicely. I may have to try that soon. I have a couple of links of wrought anchor chain. Good job. Robert
  21. I like it Hoss. Tell us how you did it and where the wrought was from. Gadsden ain't that far away......... We never did get a chance to get together. Robert
  22. I know what you mean Alan. Many times, I just don't think a potential customer realizes the amount of time involved in making a piece. I'm sure they probably don't realize the heart and soul that goes into each piece. There is always a little of us in each knife/hawk/sword we make. I suppose that is just a natural part of what we do. Robert
  23. At this price, you are still pretty much giving them away. Just my $.02 Robert
  24. Absolutely love it Alan. Knowing you like I do, I'm sure the customer will be "WOW-ed". Keep up the good work my friend. Robert
  25. Welcome Sir, I sure would love to see that knife from a few different angles. Robert
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