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Giuseppe Maresca

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Everything posted by Giuseppe Maresca

  1. Steels similar to your description, and widely used in agricultural tools, are boron low alloyed steels. I suppose that they are hard to find, but I think that are what you re looking for. http://www.zerneri.com/italian/abotab.htm you can see the specs here. It's written in italian, but mostly are numbers.. On the paper they need tempering, but the carbon level is very low and I think they could work even just after the quench. Or you could try to superquench some kind of low carbon steel.
  2. This is the nicest bulletproof forge I've ever seen. I can't wait to see other pics.
  3. My experience is based mostly on norton stones and common vitrified siC and Al oxide die making stones. Which is better depend from what you want. If the stones are prefilled with oil, you can't have great result with water anyway; I suggest you to use white petroleum or kerosene. Talking about norton stones, krystolon SiC stone is very aggressive, has faster breakdown and leave a uniform matt finish comparable to a water stone. These are very good for shaping or removing a lot of metal. India, Al oxide stone, has an harder binder, slower breakdown, and is better for sharpening and for shap
  4. I would not worry too much about tomatoes, but mozzarella takes metallic taste pretty easily; this is why I never cut fresh cheese with carbon steel knives. You have to make a try to see if it's a real problem. In this case you could try to melt some tin in the platter, in the way it's done with copper. Maybe it works..
  5. Great looking result Marco, I'm glad that everything went so well. The WI pattern is stunning!
  6. Excellent work Marco, I'm glad to see that your project is going so well. I'm impressed from the quality of your casting!
  7. The best tools I've used so far are Hilti. I have worked with a 10 yrs old hilti angle grinder, and it is still a great tool. They are pretty expensive tools anyway. Bosch are good too.
  8. That eagle looks great. It's impressive how the casting kept the wax details.
  9. I read that lead bath were used to austenize razor blades, so I suppose that it worked also on thin sections. It's a pity that it's vapour causes saturnism.
  10. Congratulations Marcolino, the result is great. I'm anxious to meet you on chat to know about details..
  11. I've done one straight razor and I'm working to make the second, so not huge experience. Anyway I brought the edge to zero on a 20cm wheel and then I hone to final edge; in this way the edge is excellent for shaving. I've tried to sharpen with a thicker edge, but the result is less than optimal. The edge don't touch nothing when closed, cause the handle touch the thicher area of the back of the blade, securing it.
  12. I've never noticed problems of grain growth while forging non hardenable steel. I have done some heavy forging on a 2kg mild steel horn (40x40mm thick stock), with very long soaking time, and breaking didn't happened. I had some wrought iron crumbling pretty easily some years ago, but I think it was dued most from impurities than from anything else. When iron has too much sulphur, hot shortness happens. I suppose that, as general rule, high temperature is not bad for wrough iron, while too low can produce fractures. I hope that someone with more experience than me corrects me if I'm wrong.
  13. that is unbeliaveble. I'm curious to see how does it look when etched. I tried once with grinding dust, but I think that it was mostly iron oxide (and some corundum maybe). The result was similar to Ferodo, the stuff used for brakes, extremely hard and wear resistant, but very different from steel.
  14. 4) is what we do in Italy too.
  15. Alan, on one of my old books "l'arte nei mestieri - Il fabbro" (arts and craft - the blacksmith), written in 1920 by prof. Isidoro Andreani, is mentioned that some steels were made in a puddling furnace, stopping the process before all the carbon was gone. It's written that the steel made in this way was called "puddled steel" and reading seems to me that it was a cheaper product than case hardened, used mostly for agricultural tools.
  16. You are too much right!!
  17. I like it a lot. The handle as an unusual, liquid look and the blade is beautyful. I like that kid of filework you have done on the back, it blends wery well with the handle and the overall look of the knife. I can't judge if the welds are poor or not, but here I suppose that they are made so to look like an amorphous blob with the handle, and their structural role in the handle is not so big, so I like them. Just curious.. is titanium welded with TIG or whatelse?
  18. I have used this afternoon a carbide drill bit to enlarge a hole in the tang of a hardened stainless steel kitchen knife. They work very well for about everything!
  19. I bought my grinder with the rpm controller and at the beginning I didn't use it very much. For most rough works I still use the maximum speed. Anyway I found the controller extremely useful when I have to use fine grit belts (from 220) for finishing or sharpening hardened steel. With the controller I can wet the belt, let it run slow and use it to sharpen all the carving tools and knife with fine edge that otherwise overheats pretty easily. It's also much easier to sharpen small tools like drill bits.
  20. Great looking cleaver. It's nice to see something different. what about the handle?
  21. Very nice knife; I like the shape of the handle and the look of your micarta.
  22. This sword is gorgeous. Sincerely, together with some other swords of Vince Evans and Ric Furrer, this is one of the most impressive works I've ever seen. My hat off to the maker and the designer.
  23. Sam, your skill in forging bevels is unbeliaveble. I will try in the way you show, but I've never made a bevel as sharp as that you do only by hammering.
  24. Gorgeous! Excellent work on habaki.
  25. Outstanding work. The carving on the handle is gorgeous. Great looking sketches of the handle too.
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