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Giuseppe Maresca

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Everything posted by Giuseppe Maresca

  1. Outstanding work Marco, I'm sad that I could not see this seax when we met. You made an excellent work on the fullers. Great looking sheath.
  2. I used few sheets of pressed paper between the billet and the can. It makes a lot of ash around the billet without affecting the weld, but helps to have the cannister unwelded to the billet. I had just a small area on one side, near the end of the billet, welded to the canister, but was a joke to grind a so small area away. Aluminum melts at 600°C, but in thin foil (like that used in kitchen) it will probably oxidize before, turning in Al2O3, with a very high melting point. It's why we can't melt aluminum foil with the lighter. I don't know if it is difficult to clean after the weld anyway, a
  3. Great looking daggers, Marco. The first one, with the groove, is my favourite; you have done an excellent work on the guard. The colors of the bone are gorgeous.
  4. Niko, I too noticed that the acid bite too strongly into the weld lines, but I doubt that it's sign of a bad weld. I say this because the weld seems to be pretty strong when hot worked, and looks clean when grinded. Only the acid bath make the welds look flawed.
  5. I used to make damascus from wood bandsaw blades. I simply arc weld on the sides of the billet to avoid that them open too much. Then I soak the billet in hot water with borax. Then I put the billet in the forge, and I raise slowly the temperature, to let the whole billet to dilate evenly. I add more borax when the billet is orange, and at welding heat I hammer it. After the first forge weld, I grind away the arc welded steel and I prepare for the further forge welds. In the picture you can see how I arc welded the sides of the billet. These in the pics are the first I've made in this way. I
  6. I like the third one; looks like a kind of a kyber knife, one of my favourite weapon.
  7. It's probably one of the most interesting tactical knives I've seen until now.
  8. I had the same problem trying to weld spring steel (about 5160, chrome silicon stuff) on itself, while I could weld it to mild steel or file steel with no problems. I've tried to weld clean and well polished surfaces, with borax and using the presoaking method too, without good results; the weld delaminates after few hammer blows. I'm pretty sure that this stuff can be welded on itself using canister welding method. I've welded far more complex stuff (M35) on itself in this way. You have just to decide if it's worthy.
  9. Sometimes you can see the cracks only after quenching. Often they show up during the forging, but I don't think that it's possible/worthy to close them by forgewelding. In my opinion, used spring steel is great to make tools, punches, chisels, this kind of stuff, but not the best choice for knives the you want to sell.
  10. Everything is really interesting, thank's for sharing. I too was thinking about the quality of the scrap iron to melt. I didn't understood well: do the alloying elements get burned-absorbed in the slag during the melt? So the purity of the molten iron makes no difference?
  11. Thanks Jim, pics of the press are really welcome ...
  12. Thanks... a friend show me some pics of washing machine springs, and they looks perfect .
  13. Thanks Alan, very good to know. It's very slow, and the dies suck heat from the steel pretty fast. It was very good anyway to forge some huge stock. It begin to be useful when you want to forge things thicker than 1 inch. I wanted to put some traction springs to the press, but I couldn't find them. I thought about modifying some scooter compression spring I have here, but it doesn't sound too good to me. It's a great idea to change the relize valve... thanks for all the advices..
  14. Thank you very much, this is a great advice. I thought about using some kind of cloth as shield, but towing straps are just perfect for what I need. thanks again. Do someone knows what could happen to the bottlejack itself if it's overloaded? Explosion of some kind? This is my main doubt about this matter.
  15. I remember very well the old topic where you described what happened with the bolt. This is one of the reasons of why I fear this tool. I will also build shields on the structural bolts. Paul, I thought about welding the joints since a lot of people suggested me the same thing. I didn't operated in that way because if I weld everything I can't control if the bolts and the other parts of the press are fine. Now I can disassemble the press when I want, and change the damaged pieces during the tool's life.
  16. Wonderful work, expecially on the bronze. Great looking sheath.
  17. This is the "press", and the bottle jack is hand pumped. It's pretty sturdy. I used two chunks of an elevator rail, to make the press rails. All the bolts are heavy duty 8.8 steel, and 12mm thick. Now I have to do some work on the base, that's still to light, and I have to find (read "steal somewhere") two traction springs, to fasten a bit the work. The main problem of this tool is its speed. The method you want to use seems good, if the tool works faster than when it's hand pumped. I think that it's very important that you make everything in a way that allows you to stop everything immedi
  18. I was wondering about the riscks of oververcharging the bottle jack of an hydraulic press. I made a very tough and oversized structure for my homebuildt 20 ton press, for the fear of see something brake during the work. Now I can use all the power of the bottle jack, without the risk of see broken bolts or similar things. But what happens if i overcharge the bottle jack? Is it dangerous, and in which way?
  19. Outstanding work!! Everything looks perfect, the blade, the fittings, the handle and the sheath. My hat is off to you!
  20. This is one of my favourite of your knives. It's just too beautiful..
  21. Great looking hawks Marco, the black one is my favourite. I can't wait to see them handled.
  22. beautiful knife! That Acacia wood is very nice.
  23. Beautiful large, wide blade; looks a great cutter. Nice metal work on the sheath. I prefer far thicker guards, but that's a great looking knife.
  24. cool skulls! are they made of steel or what else? How did you made them?
  25. Very interesting. You made a lot of great looking things and tools outside the two knives. I was impressed by the adze and the axes, the sword and the spear head. Thanks for showing, it's really something different.
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