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James Peterman

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About James Peterman

  • Birthday 09/07/1977

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  1. Yep I think everyone has a pile like that somewhere in the shop. I really dig the second one from the top on the very top of the pile. Myself, I try to keep at least 6 blades on the bench to work on at any given time. That way if I get impatient or lose focus on one I can sit aside and move on to the next one for a bit.
  2. I hate to hear you guys missed it. It was a good time to be had and left a good enough impression on me that I'm going to try and make it back next year. Until then here's a few shots from the event. Alan Longmire doing a hawk demo on a cute little anvil and one seriously period style forge. I mean how many of you have seen a wooden bodied coal forge before huh? The rough looking crew that I rode up there with.
  3. I appreciate the replies and the fella who got this one loved it so I musta did something right with it. Pretty much that's what I do most all the time but sound advice all the same. Rarely do I sell a knife so most the time I'm making what I like but it's nice to get a fresh opinion on a piece or style.
  4. I can see what is being said about eh contrast berween the blade and the handle. Looking at in the pic I can see it even more clearly. This is the second one of this style I've done and both were gifts so I'm not going to sweat it too much. Besides there's always the next one to get it right on. I really do appreciate the comments and critique. Helps me to look for things that I otherwise would look over and past.
  5. Here's my latest finished piece. The blade is 184 or so layers of 1080/15n20 random pattern damascus. The guard is silicon bronze and the handle is stacked leather with red,black,brass spacers and whitetail crown. I take bad pics so dont hold that much against me Any and all comments or suggestions are welcome and thanks for looking.
  6. I was thinking it might be the muratic. Time to round up some more ferric and try again on another blade.
  7. Hey all I recently just finished a 1080/15n20 damascus hunter and tried etching it in muratic acid with some mixed results. Thee patterns there and the etch was pretty deep but not black but light gray. I've never really had problem with ferric giving me a such a light colored etch and was wondering if it is the muratic or the steels. I'm leaning toward the acid being the culprit as this happened on a different blade with different damascus combination. Has anyone else had a problem like this muratic or is it just my mix giving me a fit?
  8. I just cut up about 30 or so feet of it this morning and it was painted black. I plan on stacking this one for one with nickel foil for a bolsters and what not. Test hardening a piece is a wise move for sure.
  9. I never bothered to clean the paint/bluing off it. I did double stack it in the billet but that's because the stuff I had was only .040" or so thick.
  10. I'm thinking 1" square would be good as it's mostly gonna be made into folder blades and perhaps a small hunter/skinner with whats left. About how much can I work the billet ,such as drawing it out, after it's been accordianed with out distorting the pattern to bad? Cause I'm thinking that a lot drawing afterwards is gonna distort the pattern really bad then I should cut the billet to try and get close (within reason) of the final desired thickness. How deep into the finished billet can I expect the pattern to be? Being that it's going to be made into folder parts the finished pieces are pretty thin so I'd hate to literally grind the pattern away.
  11. When you guys make a W's pattern billet how many folds and layers do you use? Also how big do you leave the final billet when you get ready to accordian it? Is and inch square a good size or should I leave it bigger or make it smaller.
  12. Great work Don!! I've looked at the cutter a few times now and am curious as to how you have the bolsters attached. I dont see any pins or screws so it's got me puzzled
  13. I do em just about like Alan said except I like to put a little bit of JB weld behind my bolsters. If your both your blade and bolsters are flat to one another just about all the epoxy will squeeze out and you'll have a seamless fit all the way around. Make sure you get any epoxy out of the countersinks on the bolsters as it can show up as a ring around the pin For countersinking I like to use a 14deg taper carbide rotary file or a 60deg taper countersink (depends on the bolster) both will put a narrow but deep countersink that once filled can be sanded and ground on fairly heavily. One more thing, make sure you finish out the front of the bolster as fine as you plan on because once attached you can't really get to it to do much with it without scratching the blade
  14. Bumped up with a slight price drop.
  15. Don, If it's not to much of a bother could you please change my name to James Peterman. Since my parents gave it to me I might as well use it huh Thanks
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