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DanM

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Posts posted by DanM

  1. 27 minutes ago, Aiden CC said:

    I didn't realize that meat cutting blades were so coarse! I guess it makes sense though since they are cutting fairly soft material. The idea crossed my mind, but I figured the teeth would be more hack-saw like because I wasn't thinking about the bone being softer when it's green. I tend to hit it off better with fishmongers than butchers (not sure if its them or me :P), but I may see what I can do! I don't know that much about butchery, but it seems like not every butcher (especially at a counter in a grocery store etc) would have a whole femur on hand, as it seems like you would have to be working from a pretty early stage to have an intact femur in a cut of meat (though I may be wrong about that).

     

    In the mean time I may pick up some of the scales from Culpeper, I've bought bone from them before and have been quite happy with it. I've also been considering picking up an inexpensive table top bandsaw for a while, and if I end up getting one I may play around with (carefully) cutting some bone.

     

    Maybe you could get the same type of texture with a course wood rasp.

  2. 1 hour ago, J.Leon_Szesny said:

    recently got into metal casting, for inlay engraved tools.

    in germany borax is a rare blacksmith commodity(cuz its lowkey illegal...)
    so I'm wondering how to best make a long hard rod of borax, from powder, so I can just dab it on the melting metal instead of sprinkling it everywhere...
    I don't want to experiment too much and waste it, again...borax is rare round here -_-
     

     

    Have you tried boric acid as a substitute?  https://orchid.ganoksin.com/t/adding-boric-acid-to-molten-metal/17426

  3. 25 minutes ago, John Page said:

    Thanks! I do a bit of lurking, but lately I've been much more heavily involved in the toolmaking side of forging. I love that site! I did a little bit of combing, and haven't seen quite the right thing in there. Without a manufacture date on this thicknesser, it's hard to pin down what catalogue to look in. The wrapping rollers seem to be used more as a ring roller than a thicknesser. Another word I've seen in this quest is a 'metal flattener' although I'm only getting the modern results of huge machines intended for unrolling big coils back into flat sheets.  Although if anyone comes across a vintage Buffalo or Champion ring roller, let me know :rolleyes:

    Looks like a standard rolling mill used for jewelry manufacture and other non ferrous uses.

  4. On 10/19/2021 at 5:41 PM, John OBrien said:

    Hello,

    I’ve been tinkering with lost wax and bronze. I can’t figure out why my sprue tree casted but not any of the pieces that were attached??

    photo attached for reference.

    thanks...Johnny9C88D8B6-A0E6-4248-8A7C-CB8FDE0EFD0C.jpeg

    What are the objects you are trying to cast?The sprue is very wrong and it does need "vents". The base for the pour appears flat and should have a large "funnel" shape.....see example.

    sprue.jpg

  5. 18 minutes ago, J.Leon_Szesny said:

    I started some metal making for engraving and or other stuff
    and the aluminum bronze is always incredibly dirty and difficult to manage, half of the metal clumps up into a porous black gunky mass that sticks to my crucible, every time.

    however, this does not happen with my shibuichi+crucible, that one is nice and clean! no problems!

    so am I crazy or doing something wrong or

    is aluminum just an unholy disgusting metal for melting?
     

    IMG_20211012_171319.jpg

    IMG_20211012_171537.jpg

    IMG_20211012_171546.jpg

     

    And that's my shibuichi crucible

    IMG_20211012_171349.jpg

     

    Did you prep the crucibles?    

     

  6. 4 hours ago, Aaron Gouge said:

    As always you guys are super helpful!! 
              C Craft I actually have one of the books ordered and another soon. The  two I am starting with we’re also recommended in another forum. 
              Don, thanks for your insightful reply. In my college years I did some Civil War reenacting. I am very familiar with the blah blah blah blah blah blah blah well it could’ve been. Blah blah blah blah blah blah blah yeah but did you know….;-) at this point I don’t plan to do any reenacting. But I have connections to colonial era, mountain man and civil war  reenacting communities. I thought if I could produce a couple knives from each air I might open up my clientele. Also historically inspired blades are just awesome. 
             Dan that knife is very cool!! I’m interested to learn more about how to handle is made. 
         Alan I appreciate your input as well. I think that’s what makes it so challenging and appealing. 

     

    I glued the pattern onto brass sheet and pierced the piece with a jeweler's saw. A little file work to even things up and then was clamped into my mini unimat. The knife side was milled for the buffalo horn insert.

     

     

    DSC00032.JPG

    • Like 2
  7. 4 hours ago, Aiden CC said:

    For a long time I have wanted to make a leuku with an antler sheath, but have had a lot of difficulty in sourcing a piece of antler to use for it. According to a passage in Puukkon Historia, it is from reindeer, though that was translated and I’ve only found one example of a person making a new

    knife this way so I have been trying to interpret old knives. 
     

    64E3EA62-692A-476E-967F-91C5248419CA.jpeg07E4E547-E2F3-44F9-9990-78853DDE5C79.jpeg

    These are a couple of knives I found for sale from an antiques dealer in Canada. For some scale, the leuku blade is 8” long. The antler in this section is about 13” long. I wish I could take better measurements, but I don’t have the knives at hand at the moment. At first I thought surely the antler pieces were from two separate round sections, but the marrow on the end lines up incredibly well suggesting they may have been split from a single massive piece. Does that seem feasible given the width and aspect

    ratio of the sheath insert?

     

    I guess my question in general for those more knowledgeable about whole antlers is what section of an antler might work well for this as well as what the best way to get ahold of bigger pieces is. I was tempted to buy a set of whole caribou antlers for this, but that would be a very expensive experiment. 
     

    Thanks for looking and any suggestions!

    Is this what you are looking for??  http://www.thompsonsknives.com/antler2.html

     

  8. 8 hours ago, J.Leon_Szesny said:

    Hello fellow humans!


    Im getting more and more into engraving and im going to start making some ingots and alloys, soon-ish.
    Im looking for something different, like weird..."stuff," going on in the soft metal/s
    having two metals swirl into each other or adding minerals, chemicals(?) to affect certain metals color during smelting?

    I literally have no idea yet how to even look these things up, all im finding is "tinted" or "patina" and that ain't it.

    I know about mokumegane but it seems like I need specific set ups and my forge is kinda on the handwork-traditional side, so I've filed it under "maybe for later in life?"

     

    also would like to hear what "nonsense" you've been sprinkling into your crucibles, I can definitely see myself adding strange things, like, crushed up amber pebbles and when I stone the metal and polish it I get shiny orange spots of amber gems.(nvm, amber melts at 300C :unsure:

     

    PS: currently im working on/planning to inlay and engrave a budding magnolia flower on a kiridashi.

    I would go with copper, since as far as I know that seems the closest to "pink" but I would really like to have it be a very light/white-ish pink, I would try adding copper to other metals that cast on the "white" side, like aluminium and silver(probably not silver tho, since that hurts to "experiment" with)
     

     

    What do you know about mokume? It can be difficult or simple,I don't know if you have read Steve Midgett's book....here it is online.  https://www.mokume.com/mokume-gane-a-comprehensive-study/table-of-contents

  9. 1 hour ago, Oberu said:

    I’ve been tinkering with some nickel silver lately and having a dang hard time of it. I’ve got a bar of 3/8” x 1” and I’ve been trying to forge it down in some cases and shape it generally in others. I’m noticing it seems to have a tiny window where you can manipulate it before it either cracks or crumbles.  It’s incredibly stout to hammer and I’ve tried to be easy with it.  I’ve tried several different heats and I’m having less than stellar luck. Do any of you have any pointers? Thank you in advance!

    It needs to be cold forged and annealed frequently.

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  10. 2 hours ago, John Bumbino said:

    Hello All,

               So this along with my husky razor knife is on me every day without fail. Belt knife sweet lil thang. Carry in plastic sheath inline with belt in small of my back. Fits perfect. I can even lay on the porch and don't really notice it's there. Might have picked it up at cabellas ...

     

    Anyways I'm curious to know if anyone might know how produce a handle like this. Seems like some sort of resin and denim. It really would be cool to use some old jeans for this if it's really denim. I've had it for years and years. I always think how much i'd like to put a handle like this on a bigger blade.

     

    Thanks,

    John

     

    cFAURlz.jpg gO6YdLh.jpg caQlpoa.jpg

    Do a search for micarta,I believe there have been a number of post about making it here.

    • Like 1
  11. 12 minutes ago, mross said:

    Searched for this could not find anything here. Does anyone know how to get a brown patina on copper? I tried liver of Sulphur, but that comes up black not brown. I am trying to match that old brown copper patina you see on antique copper bowls and such. The knife I an trying to match to is roughly 19th Century. No green in sight on it, just a soft brown.

    Baldwin's patina..... https://www.reactivemetals.com/patinas-chemicals

    • Like 1
  12. 48 minutes ago, Aiden CC said:

    One of my projects this winter was putting together a setup for hammer-and-chisel engraving, carving, and inlay. After I got all the tooling done, the first project I made was this jewelry box as a holiday gift for my girlfriend. It is loosely inspired by “mirror lid” netsuke, and is made from the trunk of a small cherry tree with a shibuichi medallion on the lid. The design is a stylized hawk moth.  
     

    DAAAD6BA-0AA8-4B6C-8CEB-8F5C5D23F263.jpegEE83DEC2-F9E8-4A0A-8AF1-C51660D0BF82.jpeg

     

    568F844B-91FD-4EAB-896A-D10D46723D01.jpegDF91944D-00F2-4C4C-A476-FF60FDBC19AD.jpeg
    The ingot (right in the top photo) was cast into water then hammered out to make the lid. I chose to use 20% silver, the rest is copper. 
     

    A5CD7C70-9CBE-4E5C-9EF9-A3A9E8899217.jpeg1A32EE72-95CF-4C2E-846F-59926C7D3ED0.jpeg

    Definitely a steep learning curve with the carving! I originally wanted to do raised inlay to get more material to work with and more of a color pallet, but I’m not there yet. A fun project for sure, and I hope to do more like this in the coming months!

    Have you looked at this tutorial?  https://www.jimkelso.com/inlaytutorial/inlaytutorial1.htm

  13. 5 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

     

     

    There are two things that I can't get me head around though:

     

      These people didn't have artificial lighting or magnification to use.  Is there really no journeyman's trick to cutting the lines so evenly?

     

    Here is a link to what I'm referring to if you haven't felt bad about yourself yet today:

    http://www.hurstwic.org/history/articles/manufacturing/text/viking_sword_hilt_inlay.htm

     

    Thanks for your time :)

    They didn't need a magnifying lens, young people with myopia were chosen and trained to do the work. A north facing window has worked for centuries to provide enough light for gemstone cutting,engraving,etc.

  14. 4 hours ago, Alveprins said:

    Alright, gave it a shot at some scroll-work today.

     

    I've got to say, it is a real challenge making crisp lines with all those turns.

    I've got some serious heel-drag in the tight spots which I seemingly just cant get rid off.

     

    I think I need to go back to the basics and practice some flare cuts etc. to get those right at least, then look into this heel drag issue.

    The shading is also very challenging.

    Filigree 001B.jpg

     

    I will be pestering the people over at engravingforum.com, engraverscafe.com as well as engravers group on Facebook once I really start digging into this.

     

    I received my gold inlay graver blanks and templates, so I will be starting to practice inlay with those before I do the actual gold on the blade.

    Heck, maybe I'll do some borders in copper and brass on a test plate, with some scroll-work in the middle just for the heck of it... :)

     

    Anyhow, I'll keep updating this little thread for whomever is interesting to tag along for the ride, unless moderators think otherwise. As of this point in time, I'm not really "on topic" anymore in regards to the original post. :lol:

    It has rather turned into a "engraving journey" post... ^_^

     

    Sincerely, Alveprins.

    Sam Alfano has a number of books and videos on engraving,flare cuts came out recently. https://masterengraver.tv/

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