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Jesus Hernandez

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Everything posted by Jesus Hernandez

  1. These two are a bit of a step in a different direction for me. They are wootz steel daggers in two very different profiles. The curve blade was made using steel made by Jeff Pringle. The handle is a horse head design carved in hardwood and then lacquered black. The straight blade is made with steel made by Peter Swarz-Burt. Ebony and bone handle inlaid with gold leaf.
  2. We grew this one up from a baby and I took this photo the other day when we finally set her free. She was a little feisty and not at all intimidated by my size. She launched at me several times.
  3. You should be very proud of what you have accomplished.
  4. Outstanding! I love all the narrative expressed in this blade.
  5. Sorry to hear that but what you have learned through the process is invaluable.
  6. I am a bit confused about your previous comments. You said that you saw a hamon right after etching. It is so, then the hamon is there and you just need to figure out how to make it show but on your second sentence after another etch you could not see it. Which is it?
  7. Coaxing a hamon out of this type of steel is not easy as each blade is different from the next given the variations in steel composition and heat treat and how those two interact with each other. Polish the blade beyond 2000 grit then etch and see what you get. You may need to experiment with your abrasives at the end to see the hamon.
  8. Poke a hole into the bubble and flux while hot then re-weld. It works some times.
  9. I run mine as even as I can. My ceramic liner is also broken and would like to find a replacement one.
  10. Talking only about long blades 2 foot long cutting edge or so... I have had no luck using modern fast oils. I only get 1-3 mm of hardening using those. So I go into warm water for 3-4 seconds then into oil. This produces enough hardening to create a nice hamon and it is more forgiving than leaving the blade in the water all the time. A little longer than 3 seconds in the water and the likelihood of cracks increases dramatically which makes me wonder about microfractures even in the ones that survive. I have not tried brine but you have piqued my curiosity.
  11. Thank you, guys. It's simple and not really showy.
  12. Sorry, guys. I was sick the last few days but I am feeling better now and the blade is completed so here are some additional pictures.
  13. Nice job, Daniel. If you would have put the seam at the bottom, it would had stay in place by itself. Just like an architectural arch. You might need to rethink the spiral hanger, it will droop after a few heats.
  14. The composition and colors suit the piece quite well.
  15. Beautiful photography. Thanks for documenting the process.
  16. I would think that you want fast and uniform heat extraction in the first few seconds of the quench but you only need that to be fast enough to get under the nose of the TTT curve. Once you have achieved that you want a slow quench to avoid the fast formation of brittle-undeformable-without-breaking-martensite outside while the inside has not transformed yet. That means: cracks. That is the main difference between oil and water to me: water is too fast in this later cooling stage (convection). Or you can design your own quenchant with varying properties using polymers.
  17. Great work all around. Thank you for sharing the in-process pictures.
  18. They look just like the originals that would have inspired you to make them.
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