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Jesus Hernandez

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Everything posted by Jesus Hernandez

  1. Sorry Toni. I missed your question earlier. I figured .50 carbon for the core and .95 carbon for the cable. After welding, some decarb and carbon difussion it should average to .6-.7 carbon which is what traditional Japaneses sword average.
  2. I asume that you are talking about Fahrenheit... I start at 2300 degrees Fahrenheit but in practice I look at the color of the steel and the looks of the molten flux to tell me when I have reached the right temperature. You can take a look at this.
  3. Antonio CJunior is the designer of this blade. He came up with the idea and between him, the client and myself some modifications to the original design were implemented. When I was first presented with the design by Antonio I felt in love with it and so I agreed to turn it into a reality. Along the way the interplay of the three of us is what created this piece. At times modifications were made in order for the pieces to work together from the construction and materials standpoint. Others changes were made to make it more beautiful. You can follow the link that I listed above to see a detaile
  4. Thank you everyone. The cable was folded 6 times. You can follow this link to see a "how is was made" page at Antonio CJunior's website.
  5. Hira zukuri 21 inch nagasa wakizashi. Sanmai construction blade made of folded cable steel and a core of 1050 carbon steel. Fittings are made of copper and horn. The wood is a uniquely long and beautiful piece of amboyna burl.
  6. The machigane serves the purpose of making a tight fit between the blade and the habaki. You solder the habaki shut because otherwise it will not serve its purpose of keeping everything together. The habaki is more than decoration it works as the ricasso does in a Western blade.
  7. You are all very welcome. I like to go by the old axiom: "see one, do one, teach one." It works for me.
  8. If it is scale then like Al said, wet forging can help getting rid of it. The way I do it is by coating the blade with borax at the last step, allow for the borax to melt and then wire brush. It cleans up the scale nicely. The other way would be to pickle the blade in something like vinegar overnight.
  9. Greg, Can you tell me the temperature of the blade at quenching? Also, I was curious about how thick the spine is? They look great BTW. Jesus
  10. I have recently redone my website and I put together a habaki making tutorial. So for those who haven't seen it yet, here it is: Habaki Making Tutorial
  11. I like the drop of the point Bob.
  12. Yeah. Yeah. I know. But little steps first. I am working on a wakizashi.
  13. That is fantastic Walter. Did you consider stabilizing the burl wood as an option?
  14. Made of 1050 steel, these bowie has plenty of activities in the steel. Utsuri being the most striking. There is also inazuma, hakikake, nijuba and beautiful ara-nie crystals. The handle is bocote and measures 6 inches. The blade has been polished with a hybrid method to bring out the activities and measures 11 and a half inches. The total length of the knife is 18 inches. There is a damascus steel seppa, followed by a wrought iron tsuba and another damascus spacer behind the guard. The guard is slanted forward and flows with the lines of the carved handle. Click on this link for additio
  15. Here is the final package. Overall length 18 inches. Blade 11 and 1/2. Handle 6 inches. LONG! Damascus seppa, fllowed by wrought iron tsuba and damascus spacer. The guard and fittings are slanted to flow with the lines of the carved bocote handle. Click this link for more info and more pictures.
  16. Do a search on ebay for carbon or graphite powder or go to your friendly machinist next door. They will be glad that some one will take away their EDM carbon dust for them.
  17. Here are the specs: Steel -- plain ol' 1050 Quench medium -- plain ol' tap water Quenchant temp -- 'bout 110 degrees as determined by my index finger Clay mix -- 'bout 65% satanite & 35% carbon powder (measured exactly by weight --no, just kidding--) Secret ingredient -- tap your heels three times before you put it in the water
  18. Thanks George. You just have to pick up that hammer one day and then you won't be able to quit. Say hi to Renee. It was nice meeting you both in person. Thanks Randal. I am afraid is already too late. I've been looking at this thing for the last 24 hours from all different angles and I am still looking at it. I took at least 100 pictures of it (already deleted 90% of them). I figure if I have lost a neuron a minute I spent looking at it, I may still have a few left by tomorrow or else my posts here will start to look really weird. Now I understand what has happened to other members of the
  19. I am so excited about this thing that I just had to post the images before I completed the knife. I've trying to consistently make utsuri. After many many tries and almost giving up on it, I finally got it! This hamon has also many other ineteresting activities: ara nie, nie sake, hakikake, nijuba.
  20. Based on my experience. It depends on the geometry of the blade. Martensite occupies a larger volume than perlite for the same amount of steel. In others words it swells. And it also depends on the critical temperature reached before quenching. A few degrees hotter will cause a greater curvature. I suspect that steel composition may also play a role but I work mainly with 10XX, 15N20 and cable so my experience is limited there.
  21. This one is sold too. One left: check out number ONE of this series.
  22. Alex, My HT forge uses the T-rex and the welding forge the 1incher. Both are mounted flat to the ground. No problem there.
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