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Jesus Hernandez

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Everything posted by Jesus Hernandez

  1. Beautiful. If I may ask how was the guard made?
  2. Thank you everyone for looking. This dagger is no longer available.
  3. Ian, You may want to check out this little tutorial that I made. Forge Welding Tutorial Temperature is not the only factor to assure a weld. Clean surfaces and the pressure from the hammer are part of it too. To make sure that a weld is a weld you need to flip the billet on the side and hit it with the hammer. If it delaminates then the weld did not take and is back to the forge with more flux and try again. If the weld worked then the billet should behave as ONE solid piece of steel. Hope that helps.
  4. Daniel, The fly wheel can be used for drawing. I am fortunate to have a friend who is a machinist and he made a set of flattening and drawing dies for me. As you can guess it does takes a long time to draw the billet with this press but once you get into the rhythm of using it, it does a pretty good job. Don, I purchased the flywheel from Kayne & Son.
  5. I know you guys have your own and peculiar way of forge welding. I decided to put together a little pictorial of the way that I do it. Please visit this link to check it out. Forge Welding Tutorial
  6. Thank you Tai and Daniel. That is a great idea about the spacer but I need to be able to make the handle look right without a seam too. Just part of the learning process. I actually made two different handles for this piece. The first did not have a habaki and was made of stained poplar. No seams. I used the home depot regular carpenter's glue for that. But then I scrap that and made this other one. I have no formal training so I will need to learn these things by trial and error. All the comments that you guys share in these forums is what helps me get better at it. This is a picture of t
  7. Hey guys! Thank you for your comments. I appreciate any kind constructive criticism. I used a clear epoxy to glue the handle. I think is called 2-ton epoxy. The seam was not visible until I applied a shellac to the handle after putting it together. I am learning. I will get better. Next time I will use a block instead of sacles for this kind of wood. The steel I used for this was a combination of 1084, 1095, 1050 and 15N20. Folded to about 1600 layers.
  8. This is a special project. Made of 1050, 1095 and 15N20 steel. Folded to about 100 layers and then manipulated to generate a pattern that will imitate the AYASUGI hada of the GASSAN school of Japanese swordsmiths of which I have been particularly fond. Cable damascus guard and pommel and stabilized California buckeye burl handle. The blade is 9 1/2 inches and the overall length is 14 inches. Asking $375. Contact me at: jeshern@comcast.net Thank you.
  9. This is a long kukri or kuhkuri. About 16 inches for the blade and 5 inch handle from the guard. The steel is pattern welded from 1084, 1095, 1050 and 15N20. Folded to about 1600 layers. I did a bit of pattern manipulation and forged it to shape. Getting the right curvature was certainly not an easy task. It was quenched in water with clay coating in the traditional Japanese way. Then polished by hand to a 2500 grit. Starting at 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2500. The hada or grain of the steel is beautiful. The pictures show better than any words I can use to describe it. The handle start
  10. I found some time to finish the handle for this kukri. The handle starts at the guard with a habaki made in the way the Japanese do, then shaped by hammering and carving a nice pattern to flow with the blade. The wood is stabilized cedar and a copper coin with my logo goes in the back for a final touch. And here it is for a final composite picture. I am going to put this blade on the "for sale" forum that so graciously Don has open for us. I need to get some money and go buy some more steel to keep making more of these blades. I have decided to also list for s
  11. Thank you anyhow Don. I figured out how to link a picture. Here is the last image.
  12. I have one more picture of the grain but I seem to have exceeded my limit. Don, this other pic is only 24 kb. If you think is worthwhile can you do something so I can post it? Thank you.
  13. This is a rather long kukri. About 16 inches for the blade and I probably will make a 5 inch handle for it. The steel is pattern welded from 1084, 1095, 1050 and 15N20. Folded to about 1600 layers. Then I did a bit of pattern manipulation and forged it to shape. It was quenched in water with clay coating then polished to a 2500 grit by hand using progressively finner grits. Please take a look.
  14. Chad, Your choice is easier. Jesus
  15. Dan, That is very interesting. Most modern Japanese do not know much about how nihonto are signed unless they had purposely studied the art. The last three kanji characters in your post represent the word for "blacksmith" which is read "kajiya." Traditionally a Japanese bladesmith will sign with his two character art name and add "saku" (meaning "made") or "saku kore" (meaning "made this") or just leave it blank after the name. I have never seen any Japanese blade signed like you showed above with the characters for "kajiya" or "blacksmith" after the name. As for the "grea
  16. Thank you Don for this forum. Here is my latest blade. Made of 1084, 1095 and 15N20 steel. Folded to about 100 layers and then manipulated to create as close to a wood grain pattern as possible. A single leather strand goes through the handle for hanging. Subtly heat colored where you can see some reds, blues, purples and gold colors (I was unable to capture that on the pictures). The blade is 5 1/2 inches. Overall length 11 1/2 inches. Asking $225. Contact me at jeshern@comcast.net Thanks for looking.
  17. Hey Dan, I agree with John that a two character signature followed by the character for "SAKU" which means "MADE" will more like the Japanese do. Here a picture of some characters that may be helpful. The first two characters represent the phonetic equivalent of DAN using the katakana alphabet. The other three characters represent BIG WAVE FORGE in kanji. I hope that will help. Jesus
  18. I was able to find a local place that sells A36 mild steel. I have an additional question. Would it be necessary to heat treat the base and the chunk of steel that will work as a die prior to use?
  19. These are dies for flattening and drawing out work. The material to be work on will be damascus. I plan to use the 3/8 plate (4x8 inches) as a base and the thicker stock (1x2x4 inches) will be shaped flat or with a curve to make the different dies and will sit on top of the plate. So far the recomendation is to go with A36 mild steel. Now I need a source that will allow me to buy a small amount. Every other place I have called asked for a minimum order of 20 feet. I only need about 3-4 feet of each. Suggestions?
  20. I was wondering if someone can help me with this. I need to locate a source of reasonably priced steel for making dies for a press. I was thinking about O1 but I could use any other suggestions about what steel type will be better. The stock that I need will be for a plate 3/8 x 4 x 8 inches in dimensions and the other will be 1 x 2 x 4 inches. I have called local detailers and also admiral steel but I had no luck.
  21. Dan, that is a very good point. I tried the more neutral background but with my photography set-up I could not get an even gradual tonal range in the background so I switch to the tile work. But I completely agree with you. The busier the pattern on the blade, the simpler the background should be. Well... I broke one of Coop's photo rules. I should had seen this coming...
  22. Thanks everyone. The pommel and the guard are made from welded cable. Both were etched in ferric for an extraaaaa long time. The funny thing is that they look very different in their texture and the only thing that was different between the two pieces is that I took the pommel out of the etch bath in the middle of the process to take a peak. Next time I will remember to do whatever I do to both pieces at the same time, so that whatever "accident" happens that creates the pattern is ocurring evenly to all pieces.
  23. This is a dagger made of 1050, 1095 and 15N20. I had worked on the pattern as my first attempt at replicating the ayasugi hada of the Gassan school of Japanese makers. I am not actually sure how the Japanese create their pattern but I have been fascinated by blades from this school for a long time. I believe that what they do is a modified ladder pattern. In any case, this is what turned out of this project.
  24. Really good photos. Very impressive colors and the use of the depth of field. I am also curious about the equipment used.
  25. Yes. I used satanite mixed with charcoal and some iron filings for coating during heat treating. I've live in Huntsville for the last 5 years but I have never been to the Arsenal. Maybe one of these days I will. I have many friends that work there.
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