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Jesus Hernandez

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Everything posted by Jesus Hernandez

  1. Every project is a rung in the knowledge ladder that should take you to the next one.
  2. This is a tough one, Chris. That's because it will be open to many interpretations. It depends on how accurate you want to be in terms of Japanese language or how close to tradition you want to be in terms of bladesmithing terminology in Japan. The bladesmithing tradition gives a name to the smith that incorporates a set of limited "name kanji" and is related to the family or school. The name of the forge is best to be written on a wooden sign and hanged outside the shop rather than inscribed on the blade. For us Westerners, we don’t have to follow any rules or traditions and we can interpret
  3. Like Alan said. Those are very good quality fittings and likely they would not have been put together with a low quality sword.
  4. Thank you, guys. Nice torsion on words, Peter.
  5. Thanks guys. Dan, I plan to be at Bowie’s but the sword will be long gone from my hands by then. Emiliano, good insight on the Vehmaa sword. Unfortunately I fell way short on that. The transition between rods was a variation of a lap weld. Alan, it’s actually a wooden core wrapped in leather and I plan on keeping the surprises coming for as long as I can. This sword was in my bucket list of things to do and I was not planning on making any more like it but it took some much time to make the tools to make the sword that I might just have to put my investment to good use and make
  6. 5 twisted rods on each side of the core arranged 3:2 and 2:3 to make each side a bit different and two additional rods to make the edges. Length is 31.5 inches for the blade. Weight 1.2 kilograms blade. 5.8 cm width at the base tapering to 4 cm. 5 mm thick at the base tapering to 3 mm. A bit on the longish-side of historical samples. Type H hilt made of laminated iron and copper.
  7. Bloomery steel will behave differently than modern steel to state the obvious but still needs to be kept in perspective. I suspect this has more to do with straightening a blade that has been forged very close to finished shape where there is not much meat left for the grinder to correct imperfections. I have done this after heat treat and tempering in blades that were too stubborn to become straight. The first time I did it I thought that the blade will break as I hammered on the tempered martensite but I had already considered the blade a lost given the multiple ways in which it had twisted
  8. Good for you on taking a chance and making a furnace. More details are needed as Zeb pointed out to give you more guidance. I would like to see a picture of the tuyere entering the furnace. It does look like a short stack from the posted picture. I am also wondering about the purity of the ore. Anyhow, the first furnace will teach you a lot and hopefully you will make another one with improvements based on what you have learned after running this one.
  9. Very nice. Thanks. Do you know what the materials used were?
  10. Daniel, nothing is easy about the Japanese-style sword. Lots of trial and error are therefore necessary and as you get more experience the results improve. Forge a bunch of smaller tanto and experiment.
  11. Phew! I'm glad to keep my finger in working order other than the damage I do to them myself. I have a correction. I previously said that the fittings were copper but they are not! They are a low silver-copper alloy. That's why the patina color is a bit different.
  12. I saw the pics on fb. I am glad to hear that brine is working and I should give it a try too. I have been using water and hope.
  13. Thanks. You are too kind, Jim. the engraving was very simple and very crude. I simply matched my skills to what I wanted to accomplish. Zeb, unfortunately this was not my own iron. I had to balance the budget for the client. JD, I wonder too what the smiths of those times would have done. Having looking at many antiques, I am amazed at how unskillful we are compared to them and more so when we consider the tools that were available to them.
  14. Thank you guys. I will add this other picture of the saya as it did not show well that it is made of two tones. And after posting the image still does not show that well. Oh well.
  15. Just to keep the latest trend for resurgence of the Japanese style blade on the forum... W2 steel katana. Nagasa is 27.5 inches. All the fittings were made of copper which was patinated using the niage technique. The tsuba is iron with a sukashi design. The saya is poplar with many layers of lacquer. The koiguchi has been reinforced with a copper ring to prevent the saya from splitting during noto and to ensure a tighter fit to the habaki less likely to be affected by environmental changes or movement of the wood given the restriction created by the metal. On to the pictures.
  16. Thanks for taking the time to document your progress, Zeb. In doing so, the information that you share is not only teaching you but all of us.
  17. Stuart, from the marks on the tsuka looks like that sword is being used. Hi/fullers are very time consuming. Some of the very early Japanese straight blades called chokuto used the katakiriha geometry. As you said, some smiths liked it enough to repeat it later on, including you. Technically it is possible that the edge would be sharper this way.
  18. Very well executed and amazing fit and finish as we have come to expect from you. I bet the hi/fuller took some time.
  19. Very pointy! Maybe we should make a trend of making these nagamaki.
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