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Richard Furrer

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Everything posted by Richard Furrer

  1. I remember this from some older literature.... statement of the carbon in the diamond converting to graphite under the conditions of grinding and wearing off. A quick search found this article: https://www.sciencedirect.com/sdfe/pdf/download/eid/1-s2.0-0141635983900636/first-page-pdf Ric and this https://www.researchgate.net/publication/250317238_Wear_Mechanism_of_Diamond_Cutting_Tool_in_Machining_of_Steel
  2. How do you know it is shear steel? By the spark? Did you make it? does it have stampings from old manufacturer? Ric
  3. Dan, I am surprised that you can get a regular carbon content via Hearth.
  4. Nie and Nioi Daniel.........and I have a Tukon micro Vickers hardness tester...just need a few thousand simple repairs to get it working. At one time I wanted a metallurgical lab...no so much now. AND...very well done!
  5. There is "ideal" and then there is "adequate". Nothing matters till you reach a break point in use for the material. We all strive for the "best" and we tend to vilify the adequate.....all the steel has to do is get shaped into a blade and to blade things. You would be surprised at what that really requires. The MnS, Phos, carbide etc levels will only make brittleness noticed is the blade chips or breaks..........much like a crush panel in a car....only crumples when hit too hard, not in normal use. Ric
  6. The issue I have, and it is deep seated in my psyche, is that I think the tool will solve the problem of not doing the work. The most useful tool in the the shop is YOU. Everything else is there to make the use of YOU easier. Things to heat to make the metal soft enough to forge and not crack (be that charcoal or gas or induction). Use of a means to apply force to change its shape (be that a hand hammer or power hammer or hydraulic press or drop hammer or screw press). Ways to join pieces or make large bits into smaller bits. In the end we are either changing the shape of metal or heat treating it.......find out what you need to accomplish and tool up to do that without breaking you or your bank account. Whatever you do...do not copy me.....I spend hours a week designing tools I will never build to make operations efficient for a product line I will never make. Ric
  7. Um...not sure I am the one to comment on this, BUT You want tools to make the work go faster and in some cases allow you to work larger than you can by hand. Depending on what you wish to make you can create a tool list of the "best" for such work. Feel free to call me and talk Ric
  8. The business end of the craft....paperwork and scheduling.
  9. they are bright red and Like them fine. I get them from Zoro for me 2x132 grinder. All belts get dull, these cut well and are not too costly.
  10. I struggled with it John, but it was always on my radar....went to Uni to learn to teach History. Would think your niche would be to help smiths get more efficient with forging or prototyping their product line....with complement of selling a tool kit to do so. My hurdles have been many. Insurance being one of them and it took a while to sort out. Ric
  11. For very odd handles I suggest a moldable plastic....can fit an odd shape easily or resin can be held in the hand that will hold the tool and fit very closely when it hardens. The way to get an understanding on costs is to make many of the same item and gain experience, increased speed, efficiency, design understanding and if one can market the item then get a following for that sort of work. One could make a product line of objects and occasional "art pieces that feed the soul". Getting better at something comes with doing that something. Do keep in mind that just making good work is not and never was "enough" to succeed. Part of the issue with craft is that it usually deals with disposable income of the clients....if they do not "need" what you make then they must "want" want you make. I never encourage anyone to do knife making full time...metalworking is a viable trade as people need things from metal, but knife making is a small slice of the pie of metalworking.
  12. when you weld up a stack of blister you get shear...further welding is double or triple shear.
  13. last batch of blister I did. 25 pounds pictured...the rest was used for projects. Note the late blisters vary with heat....sort of a Goldilocks with too hot and too cold and just right. Hard to rotate a 45 pound billet to even things out. My suggestion for making blades is to do a test knife from the billet to check heat treatment and then do the main project. Not only is wrought iron variable, but the carbon diffusion can be tricky in shear steel form. I suggest at least three fold welds to both refine the "grain", but also to allow time to even carbons levels. Ric
  14. I can not program a circle, but I could twist up a 2" square bar of laminate and have it EDM cut. Have you seen the work of Gunther here: https://www.messerforum.net/showthread.php?58043-Computersimulierte-Damast-Muster Ric
  15. game cameras to get plates and face. They will be back.
  16. Will it be like the old latin translations with the original text on one side and the translation on the other?
  17. How very Greek of you Gary: Ric
  18. Three things Will, Don't over think it. Keep notes. Try to see what is really happening rather than what you think is happening...and keep at it.
  19. I tried to do an article series years ago for Blade...they rejected the idea. With the way things are headed today it would have to be video. Maybe a series of interviews and some forging. Ric
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