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Walter Sorrells

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    Guitar playing, martial arts, shooting -- well, I like pretty much anything that's pointy, on fire, or exploding.

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  1. Oh, forgot to add the link to the video. As an amusing (and infuriating) side note, you might notice that I go to great pains to avoid using any words like "gun," "rifle," "caliber," etc. during the video. This is because Youtube will dump your video in the same no-advertising pot as videos promoting genocide, racism, Illinois Nazi-ism, etc. if you make the mistake of edging anywhere close to the subject of guns.
  2. Hey guys, thanks for the nice comments. To answer some of the questions above: 1. Not sure exactly what the carbon content is. My guess would be .5-ish, something similar to 1050. I didn't spark test it, per se, but as I was grinding, the sparks looked pretty much like any generic medium carbon steel. I did test a coupon before making the blade to make sure it was hardenable. That's shown in the video. It hardened pretty easily in Parks #50, but produced a good hamon...leading me to believe that it's wasn't much below .5 and didn't have a ton of manganese in it. But that's total g
  3. Haven't posted on here in several years, but I thought this might be a fun blade to jump back on here with. This tanto was made from an Enfield Mark III barrel with a mild steel core forge welded into it. The idea was to mimic the kobuse forge welding scheme used in many Japanese swords. It was kind of an interesting process getting the hot core down the barrel during welding. If I did it over again, I might have done a few things differently in the forge welding process, but it seemed to work out okay. I did a video on my Youtube channel. I can add the link if anybody's interested in s
  4. I wish there was a simple answer about how to not crack blades when water hardening...but it just happens. As Gabriel said, you may have overshot your target temp. But that's not necessarily the culprit. Another thing to bear in mind is that 1060 typically has a higher manganese content than, say, 1050, 1075, 1095, W1 and other carbon steels. This not only makes it a little more susceptible to cracking when water quenching, but it makes it a less-than-ideal candidate for developing interesting and complex hamons.
  5. I like it! Nice knife, nice micarta...
  6. I like the whole rig! Nice job both of you...
  7. Lots of good stuff here! Looking forward to seeing the final result. Also, I'm loving the twist-o-matic.
  8. That just has one wonderful detail after another. The bolster is great, as is the little piece with the thong hole at the back. Also very ingenious and complicated. I imagine you must have felt like shooting yourself in the head at several points during the making of that knife!
  9. The mill is probably in one of my videos on Youtube.
  10. Hey Kevin, Yeah, aren't mills beautiful? Anyway, as to your question: I quench into water for about 4 to 5 seconds -- basically until I get the curvature I want -- then go immediately into 300 degree Fahrenheit oil. This seems to prevent cracking (mostly), but still gives me the kind of hamons I'm looking for. If you look at the quench curve for Park's 50, they say it mimics water down to the martensite start range...but the fact is that it's slower. Not a lot but a little. I've never used Parks, so I can't say that it wouldn't give me what I'm looking for in a hamon. But I will sa
  11. Here's a katana I completed recently. It's a hira-zukuri (ridgeless) blade forged from W2. Blade length is 27 or 28 inches and included a shirasaya.
  12. Kinda reminds me of a "sampler" -- the old needlework projects women used to do to show off the various kinds of stitches they could do. Great showpiece!
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