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Everything posted by ysforge

  1. A year and a half later, and I'm still sick. Since the last post, I've had 2 heart attacks, all kinds of minor medical problems, and due, at least partly, to ill health, I'm now Divorced. Heavy metal poisoning sucks, wear your respirators, and buy medical insurance!
  2. Man, how did you fit the girl on your desktop in there?
  3. Here's a couple of mug-shots of my getting back into the shop, I'm trying to get content to rebuild my website after the crash.
  4. I'm not particularly fond of the nesmuk style knives, but this one looks pretty good to me!
  5. Here's a shot of Gavin taking a lick on a bar of wrought iron.
  6. The camera didn't focus on the blade, it's focused on the cloth the blade is sitting on. Check your menu, there may be a feature called "close object priority" make sure it's turned off.
  7. Guys, I went to the hammer in here for a few hours this morning, I couldn't stay, but here are a few pictures from the event. Don Fogg explaining and demonstrating grain growth, then demonstrating forging a small integral
  8. looks pretty slick, how'd that old spike harden up?
  9. Cool Bob, I thought it might be One of these days I'll arrange to get that anvil shipped had a series of small dissasters here over the last year or so Thanks, Tony
  10. I use no flux when welding wrought iron, most of the time none for mild steel, but it depends on how the fire's doing that day, and what fuel I'm using, and I always use flux for higher carbon steels. flux, even borax (especially borax) can create monstrous clinkers in a coal fire, and render it useless for the rest of the day if much welding is done early on, so I'll make all my welds at the end of the day if I can help it. I don't know that the borax makes for more clinker in a given coal, but it does make it more difficult to break up and tend the fire properly. propane is different
  11. Mike, I actually just started back to making blades last year after several years without doing it, and essentially doubled my client base overnight! I have found that after someone has bought a knife from me, they want other stuff as well.
  12. Some of the old trade knives where case hardened, and it was part or most of the reason a lot of tribes of native americans would only sharpen knives on one bevel
  13. I do a little of everything, I started out, like most guys, wanting to make knives, but the guy who got me started didn't make any at all, and so I learned iron work, and fell in love with it, it was about a year later that I made my first knife, and about a year after that that I made the second. I make some knives, but make a lot of ironwork as well, and seem to sell about equal amounts of both. I've also been here local for 10 years selling iron though, so I've developed a market. Tony
  14. Mac, I'll be the first to chime in and say, you need to post a better photo, but the blade shape is really pleasant
  15. I don't see no sidewhow..... I suppose the rest is debateable
  16. I think hammer handles are as individual as the smiths who hold them. Mine are carved differently from hammer to hammer depending on purpose. My 4 pound hammer, (general forging, and welding small stuff) which is a cross pein, though I don't use the pein much, is a rounded diamond cross section, with the top cut flat (palm side) an angle cut butt, and slight swell. I like this shape because I can index the hammer automatically as I pick it up. not as big a deal on a hammer that's lop-sided (face heavy) due to the tactile feedback, but on a ballanced head hammer, it can mean the difference bet
  17. I never choke up either, precision comes with practice (bad spelling too, the more you do it, the more consistent the bad spelling is) I carve the handle a little bit, and usually shorten them to about 14" or so, and hold at that distance. A little trick I learned about a decade ago from an old timer; is to rub bee's wax on the handle of the hammer at the point you want to hold it, and you'll find that you hardly strain your arm anymore. I warm the wax till it's got a sheen near the forge before I start in the morning, after that the hand keeps it warm enough to stay sticky. Tony
  18. Don, your work always amazes me. The details are very cool.
  19. Mete, I stopped making hammers for my own use after all of my very special hammers I'd made where stolen along with the rest of the box of tools they where with. I now make hammers once a year or so, about half a dozen, and every year the hammers are different. (this year, wrought iron bodied modified cross piens with vascowear faces and peins) I sell them to folks who've worked with me in the shop, they set the price. it lets them get a special tool, and allows me to teach hammer making. I use a 6 pound hammer for almost everything, but I've got a 4 pounder I've been using more and mo
  20. Alright, a quick update... still poor photo's, waiting on the ones to get here from the pro photographer.... Snapped these before I finished it up; The pommel: Better idea what the hamon's looking like: More later, including the specific signifigance of the piece... Tony
  21. My problem is, I nearly need a holographic image to capture the hamon, it's got multiple lines, and some things look a lot different from different angles... hmmm holography... now there's an idea....
  22. It's from a billet that some folks and I made up nearly 10 years ago, it's the real deal
  23. I'm in the finishing stages of this knife being made as a fund raiser for the lukemia lymphoma society. It will be finished in the next few days, and all the proceeds will go to the society. I appologize for the poor quality of the photo, I should have much better ones tomorrow sometime. What you see: Blade is tamahagane, handle is Gabon Ebony, Guard and main body of pommel are sterling silver. You don't see (yet) 14 karat Gold, and several diamonds in the pommel. I need to finish the knife, including a polish to bring out the hamon line(s) better. Tony
  24. I'd think that a bigger tire would make it hit harder, but slower....? maybe I'm wrong... who knows
  25. Only problem would be that you'd have to thin the sides of the dowel to match for the thickness of the tang, and use a pin or such, otherwise, seems sound to me
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