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Andrew Recher

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About Andrew Recher

  • Birthday 06/27/1972

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  • Location
    Central Il.
  1. Nice lookin knife, and that's some crazy looking "double jointed" thumb action you have there! Watch out for the JB and power tools, and especially when fire is involved... Keep up the good work! Andy
  2. Thanks very much. Shouldn't be too hard to put together. I'm thinking of fixing this to the platen instead of to the wheel, as in your CAD drawing. Do most people grind blades directly on the contact wheel? Right now I'm mostly interested in making wooden plane blades, drawknife blades, etc...and I think flat platen grinding makes the most sense for that kind of work. I still have the hydraulic cylinder and stand, It appears to be from a lift gate from a truck. The control valve appears to be broken and it also looks to have an attachment to connect to a compressor (which I don't have).
  3. DJ, I was thinking of installing a ceramic liner, they are pretty inexpensive. I made the depth adjustable so I could glue one on and then push it out to where it just touches the belt. They really make that much of a difference in belt longevity? Chris- I wouldn't mind seeing a pic of your shelf setup if you find a few minutes to snap a pic for me. I think Wayne Goddard mentions a swing away toolrest in the "$50 Knife Shop". I need to look that up and see if there are any good pictures in there. I think I'm really going to like having this machine. I used it yesterday to clean u
  4. After a week or so of flooded basement, I had a chance to get back to this today. Here's a couple of more pics of what I've come up with so far for a platen. It's a little crude but seems pretty sturdy. I plan to fasten a tool rest to the side of the angle iron. Maybe something that I can adjust the angle of, and lock in place. It was fairly simple to make this. I did forge the thicker mounting bracket. The thinner (top) piece I just bent to shape in my new (to me) bench vise. I'll post a picture of the toolrest when I've finished that.
  5. As an update... I've bought a few belts through Tru-grit, and got some part numbers for platen arms etc that I could use to flat grind (which is what I'm most interested in right now). The exploded view diagram PDF from the Burr King website is a big disappointment. Why would a company that makes such a nice product publish such a useless diagram (I think they photocopied a photocopy of an old photocopy). It's nearly impossible to read the part numbers. I think I may try to put a platen arm assembly together myself but I'm not sure how to go about it. I guess I need to sit and stare at it
  6. Yup, I'll definitely be running as is for a while. Though there is an electric motor repair place around here, maybe I can pickup a refurb or something down the line.
  7. Thanks guys, Yeah, I'm pretty sure its a 1/2 hp. Thats what the plate on the motor says and it looks a little small. I'll give Trugrit a try and see if they have that part. It seems like that should be an easy thing to make, however. This thing is so quiet (without belt) I might just put it in the basement-out of the cold. Thanks again, Andy
  8. Here ya go Sam. Excuse the mess... Yes, I was reading this page on the Engnath website. http://www.engnath.com/public/grinder.htm I need to figure out how I want to set this thing up. If I use it, as is, I'm going to need a pedestal or base or something. It's really low now and is at about the top of its extension height. Not a bad score for a couple of Franklins. This thing is heavy! I asked the guy on the phone how heavy it was and he said ohh, around 50 lbs (young fellah). Again if anyone has any experience with this model or a good method of setting it up an
  9. I recently (yesterday) bought a Burr King belt grinder from a fellow on craigslist and am looking for a little info. It's a model #060200 (2" x 72"). It's in pretty good shape but is missing the platen arm (I'm assuming it had one at one time.) There is a sticker on it that says "Property of Blackjack knives, Effingham, IL). I looked them up and it (the web) said they went out of business in 1997 (I think that's what I read). The guy I bought it from said his Dad bought a duplex apartment and this was left in it. It's on a stand that uses a hydraulic cylinder to raise and lower it, which I
  10. Looks like a "gray treefrog" or Hyla versicolor. They can vary quite a bit in coloration, from browns to gray to green. According to my field guide..."the concealed surfaces of hind legs washed with orange". It is not a toad , but is wartier (is that a word?) than many treefrogs. Nice pics, thanks for sharing. Andrew
  11. Yup. That makes a lot of sense. I don't have much experience with CAD software-coming from the drawing/art side of things. Nice knife, by the way. Looking forward to seeing it "in the flesh"...or pixels. Andy
  12. Half Moon, I'm going to chime in on the graphics programs. I prefer Adobe Illustrator for this kind of thing-mainly because I already have it and know it well. There are other vector-based drawing programs out there that are simpler and will do the job as well (Freehand is one-though not neccesarily simpler). Depending on how the PDF is made, you can open it and modify the lines and colors in Illustrator. It might even open your DWG file, i'm not sure about that though. Illustrator is invaluable to me for exactly this kind of thing. If I don't have a stencil for a certain shape of ov
  13. Thanks for sharing the info... I see one of these in my near future as well. No problem with the nuts loosening up? Also wondering if that bottom "fuller" doesn't mar the face of your anvil at all? I was thinking of putting a flat plate under the bottom fuller to distribute the force a little over the anvil face. Looks like it's working really well as is and is certainly easy enough to make... Thanks again. -Andy
  14. Edgar, I really like the look of that cable. I have a few pieces that I want to try but I don't have a good setup for forge welding it yet. I've had a lot of trouble keeping my tangs centered as well and its darned hard to try to correct once they're off. For the handlesI've found that by drilling and then alternating burning and scraping/cutting I can get a tang mortise cleaned out pretty efficiently. That Tru-oil should be a good tough finish too, I'd think. Keep it up, they look great. Andy
  15. WOW, that's being productive. I'd have to say I like the 2nd one (wharnclif) blade the best. That's such a cool blade shape, and your work on the handle shape is nice too (fits together well to my eye). I haven't made any of that style yet but I think I'm going to put it on my list. I also like the blacksmith's knives. The other two aren't as exciting to me. I do like that you seem to take inspiration from blades from many cultures. The pewter casting is interesting too. So that doesn't scorch the wood at all when you cast it in place? Not hot enough I suppose? Geez I guess I
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