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Alex Roy

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Everything posted by Alex Roy

  1. Alright guys, I am about to purchase a rebuilt 10 HP single phase Baldor, 1750 RPM. I am going with a single stage pump. My question for you guys is: Should I try to maximize the linear speed of the ram at the cost of hydraulic force? My calculations show that I can develop 20 tons of force at 2000 PSI (5 inch cylinder), moving at 1.41 inches per second. I could also run at 25 tons of force at 2500 PSI, moving at 1.18 inches per second. I am still doing calculations to determine if the increase in ram speed will offset the heat conduction from a larger force with a slower ram. Let me know what you think, any input will be helpful.
  2. I am considering on going with a single stage pump to keep heat in the billet longer. The filter is a must, I agree. I am probably gonna stick with a 5 in cylinder. As far as the quick change design, I will work on that. I can calculate thermal expansion and work it into the design as well. I plan on doing a lot of design iterations, as it pretty standard. I am feeling like I will likely go with an H frame because I want to maximize rigidity. Also I plan on building in adjustments into the ram guides and so and movement can be rectified easily. I'm gonna work Statics, Dynamics, thermo, fluids, fabrication, machining, metallurgy into one project. Certainly will be fun. Please keep the comments coming, looking forward to hearing from you guys
  3. For entertainment purposes I am working on a press design but would like to get some info from people who use them. I will not be building this for some time, but I have plenty of fabrication and design experience. First I keep reading that the linear speed of the piston should be atleast 1 inch per second. What would be optimal, since I am designing the press from the ground up I have total control over the feed rate, force and pressure. Would 2.15 inch per second be good or would faster be better. I understand that the faster it feeds, the less the steel will cool from die contact, but is there a diminishing return as some point? At which point does the feed rate become so ridiculous that it is hard to control? I would like to run a few experiments to quickly determine what the feed rate of peoples press' but that is entirely up to the individual. Anyone interested in testing this info please send me a PM. I am mechanical engineering student so I have spreadsheets up and working. I intend to fully document the design and building of the project for my portfolio and for entertainment. Some design considerations include: -Quick change dies -Shielding for all plumbing, /w hinges for easy access. -Build in heat exchangers on the reservoir ( maybe with fans) -Adjustable throat/work surface -Shielding for operator -Sound dampening -Throttle adjustment for non forging use (pressing bearings / bending etc.) I know I've gone on a rant with this one. But any specific info would be helpful.
  4. Hey guys, I have not posted for a few years and am actually looking for help with a non knife related topic. I've got a summer internship at a university and I was asked to do the heat treatment for some A2 triangular parts. The parts will need to have pretty close tolerances and I know that A2 has high dimensional stability in heat treatment and that is mills relatively well in anneal condition. So that is the material we are working with. My question to everyone is how would you go about minimizing decarb? The parts will be roughly 1.25 X 2 inches. They will be hardened in a brand new induction furnace with ramp and dwell functions, as well as +/- 1 degree C accuracy. The furnace is naturally ventilated (Open to atmosphere). My thought on the matter was to buy stainless foil, pack ash into the foil and seal it as best as possible. Or using stainless foil with borax or boric acid (anhydrous) inside. The parts need to be surface ground after hardening so the less decarb the better. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  5. I would greatly appreciate pictures and measurements of the clutch, thank you.
  6. I'm gonna be taking machine design and for a project I'd like to be making a pseudo replica of a #4 Beaudry Champion, likely 1/4 scale. I'm having a difficult time finding good images of the clutch mechanism. If anyone know where to look or who to talk to, that would be a great help.
  7. I'm building a KMG clone and I'd like to know what people have for a crown in both there Idle pulley and drive pulley. If anyone could measure or let me know what the amount of crown the pulleys have. Thank you.
  8. Being the fact that Iron (steel in this case) is Allotropic. I am aware that there is a sudden release of energy during the transformation from one lattice structure to another. My interest is that I would like to find a video of the visual increase/ decrease in light being emitted from a piece of steel when it changes from BCC to FCC. Also, if anyone could tell me the technical term for this emitting of light during the transformation, that would be very helpful. Sorry for my long winded appeal for help. Long and the short of it is, if anyone could send me a link of the transformation or tell me what it is called so that I may search for it, I would be very thankful. Appreciate the time.
  9. Hey guys, havent posted in a while. I had surgery on my right arm and it still has not improved. But I've decided Im going to just do stock removal in the time being. So my question for all of you is, what do you prefer as a good, rugged steel, A-2 or D-2. I have selected these too for thier reputation for good edge retention, and the fact that they are easily air hardened. Secondly, since I do not have to hit it with a hammer, I figured I'd work with a richer alloy. So opinions and ideas would be greatly appreciated Thank You. Secondly, I was wondering where you guys get your tool steels.
  10. I like the general overview he did and the way he speaks plainly, doesnt try to jazz it up. Very elegent, simple and useful blades.
  11. The whole phosphorus adding thing was rather back asswards. But it was mildly entertaining and yes, the narrator was a complete fool. Thanks Alan
  12. I have welded up a few billets with my gas forge, without much problem. But I would like to work on my technique to do so in a coal forge. I have made two attempts thus far and have had serious problems with the weld fully taking, I think my air blast may be a little too strong and / or I think I maybe getting small pieces(very small of coal and such in the weld. I know the temp is right, because I use the same temp when using my gas forge and atleast 3/4 of the weld is not more is taking. Im sorry for being so vague with my question, but If anyone has a tryed and true technique or suggestions, please, by all means contribute.
  13. Im in from now untill 9:45
  14. I cant decide which ones are good or not, If I could get a few of your opinions that would be great. I tried using vice grips to make a hawk and I spent half the time picking the peice up off the ground and putting out small fires.
  15. When you see pictures of Mars and think about all of the Fe02 (Iron Oxide)
  16. First thing I pictured made me shiver, but yeah, that is beautiful. Use the word "tiny" of "mini" instead of baby, when refering to knives.
  17. If you quenching in Natty Ice, by all means, but if you touch my Guiness, I will end you. Hell, Keystone is almost cheaper than water, why not.
  18. Why not try using a high nickel welding rod, the nickel inhibits carbon diffusion. This will stop and spot hardening of the HAZ. And instead of striking the weldment after the "normalizing stage", why not just grind it flush. Using TIG would be your best bet also, and you should raise you gas output from 15, to maybe 20. Use a large cup size as well, more gas coverage the better.
  19. Very nice shape and the hamon is very dynamic. Great job, all around
  20. Saw the show on Tuesday, I think it was well done. It was meant for people who know nothing about Japanese Swords and I think that the show enlightened people rather well.
  21. Im am on from 9 - 10 pm EST
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