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Everything posted by McAhron

  1. Kelly Cupples or Aldo Bruno are two makers who also sell steel.Their both great to deal with.Also Don Hanson sells some great w2 and is a pleasure to deal with.Kellys info is available through Ellis knife suppl,both Aldo and Don sell at Blade Forums.
  2. Looks to me your setup is very efficient.I use way more gas.For forging I'll go through 5-10 gallons a day and more for welding.
  3. Looks like a real workhorse.
  4. Thanks everyone.For the record GeZell's comments didnt bother me as everyone has a right to their opinion. MassArtTom, I would have chose the seat cutter to be different also.This blade is so thick the cutter binds.I would have milled a recess to accept a replaceable razor blade if it was up to me.
  5. Im sorry its ugly to you.I didnt chose the materials or design it.I just donated my time and materials for a good cause.
  6. Thanks Herb.I used glow in the dark sticker material and paint I got at the local art store.You can order sheets of GID material in various thicknesses but I was unable to find anyone selling less than a 4x8 foot sheet.
  7. Heres the collaboration knife David of Great Lakes Waterjet and I did.It is d2 1/4".David did the profile and initial bevels on his waterjet,leaving me with about .060 to remove.I then drilled and tapped her for holes,heat treated it and put a handle on it.I then added LED's,one shining forward and three under the scales.I also added a firefighters shield that I did using files and added a red bicycle like reflector to.I replaced the fragile LED switch with a robust one and hid the electronics/batteries,switches,etc under the scales.Scales as well as the sheath is orange G-10.There is also glow in the dark material between the four g-10 layers so it will glow in the dark.David and I did this for his wife's cousin who is a firefighter whom successfully beat cancer.It was a fun projec __________________
  8. Look awsome.How are you like the palm control?I love my Classic but really want to upgrade it to PC ASAP.Keep up the good work!
  9. A few 4x4's and a sheet of wood would be enough to get some shade.Maybe 20 dollars with nails.
  10. Ive seen several people on the forums build that kiln exactly the way he did and they all stated they like it very much.
  11. Your forge looks great.You could make several small to medium knives or a sword and a couple of knives with that large chunk of 5160.No rivet needed for the tongs.I use a 1/4 to half inch piece of mild steel and peen them in place.Borax is the most common flux.20 Mule Team borax is available at most grocery stores.Anhydrous borax has no water in it like the 20 Mule Team but needs to be ordered.I got mine from a welding co.Take a look at some of Raymond Richards posts as he often shows the square steel and the finished blade in his posts so you can get an idea of how much a piece will lengthen when forged.For instance a 1 1/4 x 1/4 x5 piece of steel can make a 7long x 1 1/2 or more sized blade.To be honest I would start with some thinner steel to learn with as you'll have less forging to do and when you screw one up as most do while learning you will lose less steel.
  12. McAhron


    Ive never had a problem with 10x series steels unless their water quenched.Heck even Japanese masters lose 40% of their blades in a water quench.I would suggest buying a pyrometer to go into your forge so you know the exact temps your forging at.Also use oil to quench.For 1095 if you forge at the right temp,normalize 3 times,quench in oil,and temper immediately you should have a 99% + success rate.I had some problems with 01,l6,and d2 until I figured out the best temps to forge at.Really quite frustrating.Some days you got to just walk away and do something else so you dont put your blades or tools through the walls.
  13. Looks good to me Robert.You could always burnish part of the lighter side to even things up.
  14. Just so you know those kanthal wires are hot.If you touch it with the blade you will short it out and possibly electrocute yourself so dont use the first drawing.
  15. The //www.igraver.com/forum/ and //www.engravingforum.com/ both have excellent tutorials on wire inlay.
  16. While your units are away work on other things.Try drawing some designs up,do research,do file work,etc..Forgings only one part of the bigger picture.Dont assume its a trust issue unless you know they have reasons not to trust you.Its entirely possible their concern comes from love and not wanting to see you hurt,or theyre worried about safety stuff like fires.If its a big deal to forge while they are gone perhaps they or you know a responsible adult to oversee things.Be patient with your parents.You will gain their trust faster by being mature.For instance when your Mom says dont forge while Im gone say something like OK Mom I appreciate your concern for my safety.Do extra things around the house before your asked.Get descent grades in school and other responsible things and before you know it your parents will see the changes and may then give you more freedom.Being a teenager sucks in some ways, your told to act more mature yet you arent given the freedom to go with it so its very frustrating,but usually this comes from love and not meanness.Also, you should build something to shade you in the day so you can have more opportunities to do hot work.Thats a project that could keep you busy while they arent home.To me bladesmithing is a love affair I'll do till I physically cant so dont rush and have fun.
  17. Post the question at Hand Engraving Forums or the Engravers Cafe.Many of the worlds finest engravers hang there.I have never seen bronze inlayed as its so hard but just cause I've not seen it doesnt mean it cant be done.
  18. I recommend you buy a proper crucible.You dont want to spill hot molten bronze.
  19. Awsome,I think theres going to be a lot of envy from his squad.
  20. Another fine work Jim.Did you do a picture tutorial on this one?
  21. Im on Dan W's side here.This is not the first time Dan has had problems.He has tried contacting the maker for months without response.While it is true life throws crap in the way, how is ignoring your customers acceptable?Yes the maker had problems with the city and other issues last time but he posted that all was back on track and that Dan W would be recieving his goods.Unless you are in the hospital and otherwise unable to handle e-mails,phone calls,or letters you have an obligation to converse with your clients,particularly if you've taken their money.Simply ignoring customers is no way OK! As to posting his gripes here on the forums,how else is he to inform others of a makers problems.I feel Dan W has an obligation to inform other prospective buyers of how they can expect to be treated.Also this was the only way to get the makers attention last time.No one likes their name smeared on public forums,however if you dont want to be smeared,dont treat customers with such disregard.An e-mail,phone call,or letter only takes but a brief moment,theres simply no excuse other than a physical disabilty that forbids such a thing,and in that case you should get a friend or family member to answer your e-mails,etc, and inform them of your inability to fulfill your obligation.
  22. McAhron


    Wish my first slippy came out that nice!
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