McAhron

Good job! Another safety note,move that propane tank at least ten feet away,boooooom!

Thanks for the pics Chris.I almost felt like I was there.

Towing straps and tie down straps work very well and are so easy to just wrap around the parts instead of having to fabricate shielding and such.They are very strong and will stop anything from flying off.

Wow thats fantastic.Thanks

I havent been shocked.The tube is sealed from the kiln stuff so maybe thats why no fry.

Nice tooling.I've never heard of the iron brush.I did a search and all I found were tatoo forums,is that the site?

I cant offer advice an an air jack since my press is hydraulic but I can tell you what happens when a 3/4 grade 8 bolt shears off with 24 tons of pressure.It went 6-8 inches deep into a readwood tree many feet away.If it had hit me I could have been killed.After that I built shielding around everything that can break loose to minimize possible damage from something breaking.

Nice pair ya got there.

Ellis knife supply has salts and some other salt pot supplies.

You can also build an electric one.I built a low temp salt pot using kiln bricks,kanthal,and a controller off fleabay.It works excellent.I only had to use one element but for high temp I'd imagine two at 220v would be neccessary.Whatever you do make sure you use thick tubing so a blowout is less likely.

Awsome work Dustin.Do you ever frequent the Engravers Cafe or Lindsays Engraving forums?I sure would like to see a pic of the tools you made,it always gives me a kick.

That aught to earn you some bonus points!

Send it to WSSI,alpha Knife Supply,or K and G.

Thanks,another great tutorial!

The knfe network has an excellent tutorial.

Welcome Jim.Good to see your life has smoothed out and your back to work.I hope all is well and look forward to your posts.

Beautiful work J.I hope Im not the person who gave poor advice(hearsay).The advice I gave was for making bladesteel.Either I didnt catch the fact you were using 304/316 or it escaped my mind If I had reealized the mix I would have recommended higher temps for both welding and forging.I hope I didnt cause to much loss in time and materials.Did you recess the caps on the can?I have only had one can ever rupture that was recessed and had many failures before recessing the caps.Also stainless responds best to small manipulations.Such as several heats for twisting,heat and twist a 1/4 turn,and repeat until enough twisting is done.I try and only take 1/8th bites with the press.Well anyhow it sounds like youve got all the bugs worked out.It just makes me fell sick to think I gave bad advice.I try to only give it whith things Ive had great success with and Ive done quite a bit of stainless damascus for blades and sincerly hoped to help you.

Awsome Chris.That guard came out super nice with a beautiful pattern and deeply etched.The blades outstanding too.

Excellent! I use my mill for surface grinding also,but also only could go to 80grit. Thanks for this post!

Cool Chris,Sorry about calling you Mark.

About time she sold.In a better economy she would have sold quickly.

IM certain he'll go bananas' for it.

I've never had a water quenched blade nose down like that.Oil quenched always do.I'll do a little research and if I find an explanation I'll respond again.As far as tempering 350ish is a good start for a tanto but probably a little low.Cycle it twice and do an edge flex test(brass rod)if she chips go higher.

Mark, finger nail polish works great.

Cool J, glad to see everything worked out.