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Everything posted by McAhron

  1. I had one as my first grinder,hated it!!!!Had a grizzly,then a highly modified grizzly variable speed,and now have a kmg.I LOVE my kmg.My story of multiple grinders is all to common.Buy something good so you wont have to update.If a kmg is immpossible then buy the plans for The No Welding Required Grinder found on this forum as well as Bladeforums and the knife network.They are a kmg clone using a bolt together design.Total cost I believe is around 200-250 dollars with motor.I have read many many posts from satisfied customers.
  2. Lookin cool J.Be sure to not go to 2400 for welding.Soak it at 2250 for an hour and it will stick like butter.I use some asbestos paper wrapped around the billet to make the can removal easier and to burn up any carbon present in the can.I use a plasma torch to cut the corners off and the sides just fall off.Welding stainless is no more difficult than welding carbon in my opinion.Heck I've even done san mai stainless in the forge without a can,its a good way to learn how to get the right mixture for a reducing atmosphere.I get little to no scale in the forge and can watch scale form as its taken out of the forge so I immeadiatly put it into my kiln to spherodize.I have a can inside the kiln that I flood with inert gas so no scale forms,first i purge the can and then run the gas at about a 1/4 pound throughout the cycling.A 30 pound tank will run over a hundread hours if neccasary.You could also use salt pots to anneal but I've been unable to spherodize in pots due to how slow the salts cool.Okay I guess salts would work if I was patient enough to keep an eye on things.The can in a kiln+gas works awsome for mokume too.I know you do a fair amount so maybe give it a try.The can is just a piece of rectangular stainless with a cap and inlet pipe welded on one side and a recessed cap for the other side with a little clay applied each time I load her seal things up.I built a vertical kiln for this purpose and for heat treating long blades so I get no gravitational warp during heat treating.Im surprized many more smiths arent using vertical kilns/forges for sword work and Im amazed more dont use gas in their kilns.You dont use much gas in the vertical set-up with a recessed cap and a minute amount of clay applied for sealing things up.Ive priced it out and the gas is cheaper than foil for stainless and a hell of a lot easier than pulling out an 18" blade and trying to cut the foil off before it cools to far.
  3. How about a two pronged fork with a sharpened edge or something similiar to those fork/spoon thingys with a sharpened edge for eating and for preperation an ulu or small cleaver would be cool.
  4. Sweet.Are you going to use the no-tarnish silver?I forget the name.Ive used it and love it.Great color too.
  5. Well Done.You could always add a pneumatic cylinder in the future too.
  6. I couldnt do Backa because of the rheumatoid.I couldnt even walk this last fall.Im much better now.I went to the show and it was terrible.Very few tables,low sales,a third the size of 3 years ago.I doubt there will be one this year.Its a shame that it has fallen into such dissarray.Sorry to hear the two years went so quickly.I hope all is well with you and yours,McAhron.
  7. Dan if I recall you are using a forge and magnet to judge temperature.Sorry if my memory is wrong.I think temperature and soaking are the two most important hamon factors besides steel selection.I built a 33" vertical kiln for less than 300.It allows me to keep an even and exact temperature range and prevents gravity warp which occurs on long pieces of steel in a horizontal forge/kiln.I have found from experience,testing, and great advice from others that holding the steel at a little less than critical for 5-10 minutes helps hamon activity tremendously.I finally got some parks 50 awhile back and its wonderful stuff.Maybe switching to parks and eleminating the water quench as the water itself is probably inconsistant.I think the less variables involved the more consistant your quenching will be.If you know the steel,quenchent,temp,and soak times and keep a record of your results you will be able to see why something worked one time and not another.I now get fairly consistant hamons in 1095 that follow the patterns in clay.I never was able to before I built the kiln.Now I am ready to give some of the 2" w2 a try.
  8. Go to cnczone.com.They have about a hundred forums there.Got to the Benchtop cnc and manual mills forum and do a search.The x3 cnc from Syilamerica is very popular.Cnczone also has a Syil forum.There is no comparison.The x3 is much better than the little hundred pound machines.At 400 pounds its capable of doing steel well.The hundred pound jobbers cant do steel.Well, thats unless you want to make teenie cuts.I almost bought the x3 but needed more x travel so I got an Industrial Hobbies 1300lbs mill with a 30x12x12 travel.An amazing machine and actually stiffer than bridgeport type knee mills.I cant recommend IH enough.Its a machine you wont outgrow.
  9. I think an air operated jack would work better,My hydraulic press moves at 2.5 inches or about 150mm per second.Power output is relative to the size of the dies,small dies need less pressure than large ones,its all about psi.Although the more power(within reason) the better.Air jacks are cheap here,as are used air compressors.
  10. E-bay usually has quite a selection,everything from mosiac to random.All the supply companys also have some too.Sales boards on other forums also.If you cant afford/find some,then PM me and I'll look through my scraps.
  11. I suspect an air fuel ratio problem,too much ox.
  12. There are numerous posts and even some tutorials on the building salt pots,Darrin Ellis sells kits.Budget casting supply and E-bay are also good souces for supplies.Local clay and potters supply companys in your area may have what you need too. I got my salts from Darrin,controlers off e-bay and everything else locally.Theyre just kilns( hi and low) built around a 4x36" piece of heavy wall stainless pipe.Salts are dangerous and if contaminated with the right chemicals will explode.I have not heard of the salts themselves to be flammable.It seems I would have heard do to the fact its fairly common for the pots(hi temp) to eventually be eroded through and rupture if neccessary maitnance and inspection isnt performed.Water contamination is also severly dangerous, so care should be taken to avoid this too. I dont know much about horizontal ones, but I can think of many ways to do it using a blown forge or kiln type.All thats needed is even heating of the horizontal tank.I plan to build one too for smaller blades.Heck an electric burner would work for low temps. There is also some great information on gas pots, including some tutorials on electricly controlled ones.
  13. Danger Will Robinson,Danger! You must have mechanical fastners for safety.The amount of energy a press can generate is immmense and dangerous.You also need shielding for the hoses and anything that can pop off under pressure.I told you about the 1/2 grade 8 bolt poping off and loging itself 6" deep in a redwood tree.If it had hit me I would likely have died.A press is a serious piece of machenery and must be taken very seriously. Other than my warnings good job.You will love having a press and there are so many different dies you can make it boggles the mind.
  14. I dont know anything about using tranny oil.Peace
  15. Its a 24ton.I say the bigger the better.
  16. Well back to life this post is.Andy I sent a PM to you.Its no Ron Claiborne press( would buy if I could have afforded it) but I can make any kind of damascus I want very quickly and it splits wood too.The press now has shielding and larger grade 8 bolts for safety purposes.Peace everyone Ps.buy the biggest you can get,although the four way wege on the Northern might take some finagling to get around.
  17. I loved the idea of a defense fund.I bet money would pour in by the truck load if people knew what is happening.Report these dealings on the forums and theorize about a defense fund.In numbers there is strength,bullies always go after the weak and with enough"back-up" I bet fluffy will run with his tail between his knees.I will also make a personal opinion that fluffys products are over priced,over rated, and ugly.
  18. I read no mention of the steels looks in that patent,only an exact recipe.Theoreticly if you changed just one variable from his you would not be in patent violation.Also you made no mention of using,selling, or describing your product as technow%^%ts,therefore you have not violated the trademark agreement either.Call it "damascus like"Tell him to f himself,write blade magazine as well as the other publications,as well as postimg your interactions on every knife forum out there and report only the facts of your interactions,be carefull to use no inuendo,feelings,or any statements outside the facts. I understand fluffys needs to protect his investment,time,and business but this is going to far.I question whether buyers would feel differently about those products if they knew the vindictiveness and un-brotherly attitude.After all many buy custom knives as a means to be part of something.I doubt people would want to be part of that if they Knew. Many makers sell mono-steel knives with a damascus look.Take Ed fowler for example.I dont see him being threatened by fluffy,eventhough it is Ed's thermcycling that leads to a damascus like look in mono-steel.Also the fact the steel comes from Admiral already in that state of banding/dendricts,how could you be held accountable?All you did was follow a common and routine heat treating process that has been used,written about and documented in books,documents and through apprenticeships from well before the time fluffy was born.A patent is supposed to have a unique property to it that differerentiates itself from others.What is unique or different about fluff's process's that enables him to respond legaly?The steel?Exact recipe?Looks?Well the steel he uses isnt unique.The recipe isnt unique or even invented by him as it is meatalurgical practices whithin the rhelm of science and has been used by others before him.And as far as looks go,lets see him sue Damascus India where wootz may have been born a little bit before fluffy was born.I for one will write Blade and the other publications about this subject whith no mentioning of fluffys business name/copyrights/or trademarks.I will adress what is brotherly and unbrotherly about the custom knife business/hobby.Maybe title it the "Dirty Little Secrets Within The Custom Knife World."
  19. I have had it happen in the unhardened area using clay on 1095 and I too used many thermal cycles.Yours looks like fluffys wootz the way the entire blade is even.Very cool.What was the process you used?
  20. Clay planet in San Jose shouuld be able to supply you with all you need refractory wise.Ive built multiple forges and three kilns with supplies from them and from Ellis Knife supply who has castable refractories.
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