McAhron

Nice shop Robert,but I would reinforce your forge stand,sure it would survive a landmine but what about a thermonuclear device The other shops are great too. Next summer I'll finaly get some square footage with a new shop and will be getting lots of new toys like a fullsize mill,lathe,and surface grinder,plus some smaller stuff.My current indoor shop is 8x10 and my forge area is the sky.In the shop I have a mini mill,mini lathe,bandsaw,kmg,drillpress,disc sander,oscillating sander,kilns,salt tubes,and all the small stuff/materials.Yep,I only have to step 1 foot in any direction to work.Ok,Ican only step a foot in any direction

Be innovative and build one.You have more than enough money.Check out my log splitter press I posted a ways back.Also check out Dan Pfinstiel(spelling?) press at his web site,Its entirely bolted together,or look at numerous others posted all over the various forums.

Lookin great.Forget a sharpie and buy some layout fluid,goes on easy and resists heat better.

Howard,as to having a steel at .8c and nothing else, would it be possible to do a canister of elemental iron and a pure carbon well blended and then welded up?I have had this idea for quite a while but like so many projects, it takes time to get to.

That looks wonderful.How about a closeup?

Mcmaster Carr has them.

I have a log splitter press.I posted the pics last summer.Do a search. P.S. Does that mean Im a genius?

A fine scotty!

Im 6 foot five and 280.Guess i'll have to join the Fat Ass Blacksmith Society.

AWSOME WORK.Please share your process as inquiring minds want to know.

I only had to attatch the gas line to mine.No modifications were neccessary.

There are several videos on you tube.I dont remember what search entry I used.They show them in use but dont discuss construction.

Have you made any knives?If not,I know with skills like that you will be a natural.

Nice 4 hour blade.Keep on trucking

Looks very close to the 1070/1075xx steel i use.Hardens well and forges smoothly.Descent hamons too.

Dan I add borax to mine at about 6:1.It realy makes the clay stick,does not affect the hamon/clay development,and reduces or eliminates scale.I dont use salts though.Give it a try So hows your hamon study going.Have you achieved consistency?I havent,mostly but not totaly consistant.I as well as others would sure like to see something new you have made,got any pics. If there is a BAKCA show will you make it?Hope all is well with you and yours.Peace,McAhron

Looks a little frontierish.Different is good!

http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?sh...=splitter+press

Ellis Custom Knife Works will be carrying it soon.

I use one in my forge for heat treating.Flux will stick to the ceramic cylinders covering the element.

Over at Brittish Blades there is quite a demand for bare blades.Perhaps you could sell some there.

no pic

Go go godzilla

You have everything you need to get started.Go out and heat that forge up and hammer on some steel.Forge in the distal taper first,then the tip, And then your bevels.You can use a file to clean it up,just look atr Tai Goos knives,he uses no belt grinder or most power tools,almost all the work is done with a hammer,forge,anvil,and files.There are many excelent tutorials on the various forums,read them all there free.

There has been several good discussions at TKN on this. Here you go http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthre...eather+damascus