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Everything posted by Jim

  1. Jim

    THE blade

    That’s the problem it’s up to the cops discretion. If you’re over 30 you’ll probably get away with carrying a pocket knife as long as it’s under 3inches and people friendly i.e. no serrations or black finish.
  2. Jim

    THE blade

    Nice knife Dee looks like a comfortable handle. About the knife laws, in NSW you’re not supposed to carry any knife with out a good reason like it being part of your job. The maximum penalty for carrying a knife is 2 years in prison but considering the amount of kids that get caught I doubt most people would even be charged probably just have the knife confiscated.
  3. I find this site helpful with the Japanese stuff. Btw nice finish on your blade.
  4. I’m just wondering what grit you all finish your blades to before you harden them. It seems to be one of those things that everyone does different. I finish my blades by hand so I like to get as much work done before hardening as I can.
  5. Hard to say probably about 4 one hour sessions at the forge including heat treating and all that, plus a few hours with files and a few more hours finishing the blade all this spread over about two or three weeks. Heres a pic of it in its sheath (made from an old belt) next to a seax I’ve been working on.
  6. Thanks Finnigan, it’s not my first knife it’s about my 10th but all of those were either experiments or small utility knives. The file work looks hard but it’s actually on of the easiest things to do.
  7. I lurk this forum a lot getting as much info as I can. Now that the forums back up I thought I would post a pic of my latest knife to see what people think, I don’t know many real knife people so it’s hard to get feed back. Its forged from a flat piece of 1095, quenched in oil, most of the work was done with files and finished with paper to 1200 grit then a short etch in lemon juice. It has a vine pattern file work on the spine. I don’t know what type of wood the handle is and the pin is brass. Length – 23cm Blade – 12cm Blade width – 34mm Thick – 6mm Any constructive cri
  8. Jim

    Best steel?

    Thanks for all the help. Kevin Cashen's site had some good info on it. I think I will go with the 10xx and just do a lot of testing on small blades. I’ve already read through don site a few times, great info I couldn’t have got into blade smithing with out it. The hamon thing isn’t really important to me I just want it as an option to experiment with in the future.
  9. A hamon is the light colour line along the edge of the blade from where the hardened steel connects to the soft steel. You can make a hamon by edge quenching or using clay on the back of the blade but not along the edge. If you want to see a hamon have a look at some Japanese swords.
  10. Jim

    Best steel?

    Thanks for the info everyone, ill probably go for the 5160 or the 1095. How are theses steels for forming a hamon I’m guessing there both good maybe the 1095 is a bit better? I’m getting my steel from the Australian knife making supplies catalogue. Its probably to expensive ($56aud/m for 5160 and $66 for the 1095) but I don’t know any other suppliers in Australia.
  11. This is my first post here but I’ve been learning from this website for some time. To date I’ve been using mystery steel for my knives. I’ve decided to buy some real steel and was wondering what you people would recommend. I can choose from - L6, 1050, 5160, 1075/80 or1095. If someone with experience with theses steels could give me any info on them it would be good. I will mostly be using the steel to making bowies and smaller knives, And It would be best if the steel works easily because my anvil and forge aren’t the best. All help is much appreciated.
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