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Everything posted by Thunder

  1. Link is down. Thanks for the updated info. T. A. Toler
  2. Thank You Mr. Howard and Matt for the Excellent discussion, I have a copy of the book in PDF format, when looking at it last night, I realized it is copyright free for personal, student, and teacher use. Since all of us fit the definition of student and/or teacher, I have made a download available to others at this link: Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others who Heat Treat and Forge Steel Please scroll to the bottom of the page to find the information, and download link. Again Thanks T. A. Toler
  3. Thank you for the reply Mr Clark If I may - Lets assume that you do Austenitize at 1450 F, would there need to be a hold time involved or would you need to hit the target heat, and then pretty quickly oil quench? This would be a 5160 steel - differential edge quench in 120-130F peanut oil for this discussion. Also please define “Very rapid austenitizing”, my set up is a propane forge about 17” diameter and about 20" of interior height, holds heat pretty steady, if I set the forge at 1450 and put a room temperature blade in to that environment would that constitute rapid austenitizing?
  4. Thanks for the response Matt, After three normalizing cycles, I heat the handle to just below critical about 1300F - red, still magnetic - and then cool slowly in vermiculite. I was just curious about what the same technique would do to the blade portion. On 5160, this technique really helps on drilling holes for handles and lanyard holes, I wasn’t sure about what it might do to the blade portion. I had read other posts about SP annealing 1095 and couldn’t tell if they were talking about the entire blade. Kevin Cashin has written quite a bit on the subject, but not on 5160, I guess the chr
  5. I have read many of the posts here and on other forums and if I missed the answers to these question I apologize, but: How does a Spheroidize Anneal affect the edge of a blade (tool steel 5160) as compared to just regular normalizing cycles alone and a regular anneal? Does the spheroid nature of the carbides help or hinder the edge as opposed to laminar configurations. Or when the blade is hardened and tempered is the spheroid nature lost, and contributes nothing to the final edge? T. A. Toler
  6. Look at page 2 of this thread, L Murdock has made a good drawing of the basic design. Others have posted dimensions. Almost everyone has modified and / or improved the design, use what you need. I do have a web page that has some of the orginal construction information located at this link: Mini hydraulic press I hope this helps. T.A. Toler
  7. I have thought about this very concept a number of times. Air lines could be manifold together and with enough air pressure and CFM that should be fairly easy to fabricate and get the cylinders to push up together. Its the going down, that’s the problem. The main problem for me was the release mechanism to get two cylinders down at the same time, it takes a little practice to get the release on one cylinder, releasing two manually, would slow down the process considerably, unless they were somehow connected so they could both be released in one operation. I though about a lev
  8. Steve m Nice press, beefy! Tom Megow Good to hear you are up and running- the release support really does makes a huge difference in speed. T. A. Toler
  9. The 20 ton Chinese air/hydraulic jack from Harbor Freight about 70-100 us dollars- seems to give good results. Higher tonnage usually means slower speed on the up-stroke, which means less presses per heat. Jacks may need to have air bled occasionally, but mine has stood up well. We are all open to different ideas and if it works its good. But 20 tons chinese made - seems to be a good compromise between price, power, and speed. T. A. Toler
  10. I saw this thread and had to reply. I have done stock removal for years and thought I was a pretty good knifemaker, then about a year ago my son and I took the beginning ABS Class “Basic Forging”, in Old Washington Arkansas. The first day of the class we forged a small mouse skinner out of 1" wide - 5160, (using coal by the way), the whole knife was about 4 - 5 “ overall. It took me all day and part of the next day to forge this tiny blade. My hammer / arm / wrist technique was similar to a scared monkey drowning in the ocean. Hammer and arm flinging all over the place, no control and ve
  11. Well done MBKCo. nice press. Tom I have not had luck with tapered die sets, for blade bevels, this may be the fault of my small air compressor, or my designs I use 2" width minimum flat, my new press will have a much larger anvil and die set area, not yet finished, I am using 2" round cut in half for handle forming, be careful to press straight or it will twist. I have astigmatism and sometimes my straight presses are not straight. Hammer work to flatten areas that bulge. Havent tried patterns yet. blacklionforge - I would think this press would hot punch 2" depends on total area, may
  12. JCWalker - now thats an air compressor! Wow, I need one of those in my shop. T. A. Toler
  13. I am constantly amazed at the variations and interest in this little project. JCWalker, Zsartell your presses look great. Arioch, I am not aware of anyone who has added a pump, I would be concerned about pressure between this little jack and the pump. Also the cost, if you have to buy a pump and motor and fittings then you would defeat the major benefit of this press – low cost and small foot print - however if you already have the pump and motor, and connectors, and can verify the pressures, it might be workable - but be very, very, careful if you do. T. A. Toler
  14. Overall height of press uprights are 26". I haven’t had a chance to make more graphics, left my camera at work over weekend. I'll try to get those made in a day or two. I still havent made the die sets or holders for this press yet. T. A. Toler
  15. Ram bar isn't finished, it will have two outside guides installed as on the old style press. In the graphic the guides are laying just behind the press, in front of the fan. Matt I though about your idea, but felt the uprights would be stiffer if they were welded tight instead of having a center gap for the travel. The center gap may be the way to go - I'm not sure. The top plate size is 1/2" thick X 10" X 4 1/2". Bottom plate is 1/2" x 10" X 4" - Uprights are 4" wide - add 1/2" to top plate - making it 4 1/2" to accommodate the 1/4" guide thickness. That keeps the press area smooth. C
  16. Original press base dimensions 8" X 10" New press base dimensions 10" X 12" I made the base wider so the jack can be centered better, also width gives more room for the ram bar and anvil beam. I have dual uprights and twice as much room for larger/longer die sets. I am not using a movable top beam, I think the adjustable top on the jack will be fine for most of what I do. With a non adjustable beam, I do not have to worry about aligning, drilling, etc - the bolt holes. Also I do not have to worry about the holes stretching bolts failing and the frame is much stiffer. Personal choice, adj
  17. Art I'll measure my press tonight and quote back tomorrow, for the base dimensions. My new press is bigger than the first one I built. The new base is wider and may be deeper I havent had a chance to test the new one yet. T. A. Toler
  18. I look forward to seeing your design and results. T. A. Toler
  19. here is how my die set holders look: little lips to hold the die sets and upper magnet to keep top die from shifting. 1/2" plate steel for top die set, 1" X 2" lower with stops to keep plate at 1/4" thickness Crude but works pretty well. On my next press they should look much better. I have a new press in the works, should be a month or two before I can get to the shop to complete it. T.A. Toler
  20. Very nice press! Excellent documentation, I especially liked the slideshow. T.A. Toler
  21. If you can - Post some pic's when you get the chance. I beam construction, Wow! sounds beefy : ) T.A. Toler
  22. The noise you hear might have more to do with my weak compressor than the jack, I can barely make 100 psi or more like 90 psi at the jack. These jacks are rated for 125. A new compressor is a priority for me. I almost have my new jack built. I also have been working on a fluidized bed built around a 4” X 24” pipe, if it works - and so far it has been challenging – I hope it will make an alternative to salt pots. Lots more work to do before I show it to anyone. T.A. Toler
  23. I would stick with the 20 ton. T.A. Toler
  24. Matt - Nice looking press, I like the bolt shield idea - safety first. Everyone has new and great additions to the original idea. Truly a group effort. Great work Matt. T.A. Toler
  25. HSjackson Could you post a picture of the damaged leg, also did the weld break or did the base metal break, where did the break occur, side / top / base? A lot can be determined by seeing the failure it self. Thanks T.A. Toler
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