Bob Ouellette

I've finished it! Here are the final steps leading up to completion. I used buffalo horn and madrone burl for the handle.

Thanks Alan. I think I'll try to use a mill to make the radius on the bar. I burnt up 2 new 24 grit belts getting the bar ground down.

As promised, my new tool! It's an addition to my platen to mimic a 48" diameter wheel. I ground it from .75 x 2 x 8" bar of 4140 and drilled and tattooed to mounting holes into the back of it. With a 24" radius, it'll have a 0.021" deep hollow over a 2" wide blade. I have another piece to mimic a 36" diameter wheel. https://imgur.com/a/MycFLPX

This is a honesuki (Japanese boning knife) I'm working on for a professional chef. I started with .25 x 1 x 5" of 1084. My first attempt didn't get wide enough, so I upset the end. It still just barely made it, do I think in the future I'll add an inch of material, taper the end, and weld it back on itself. I isolated a small lump for the tang (again, just barely enough material for what I want to do) then began aggressively peening to get the width I needed. I got as much peened out as I could before flipping it around and working from the tip to the middle. I ended up with a blan

I have an update, I have 19 chances left. If you have a specific number you'd like, send me a message with your payment and I'll make sure it's yours. 1 Cathy O. 2 Noel Y. 3 Donna K. 4 Noel Y. 5 Teri P. 6 Noel Y. 7 Kat H. 8 Noel Y. 9 Tammy W. 10 Bob O. Sr 11 Becky K. 12 13 Meloni M. 14 Kevin C. 15 16 Kevin C. 17 18 19 Kevin C 20 Noel Y. 21 22 23 Lindsey W. 24 Noel Y. 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Noel Y. 35 36 37 38 Noel Y. 39 40 Kevin C

Thanks Alan!

Have you considered filling the socket with epoxy or another resin to keep fish parts from getting stuck inside? If you left the end open, I'd say that you could just wash it out, but I'd be a little concerned with not being able to clean it completely.

Thanks Rob! I know everyone has a different way of doing things. Now that I have the photos off my phone (and I'll feeling a bit more awake) I'll go back and edit the original post with descriptions of the pictures.

Very nicely done! I really like your weld prep. Nice and clean.

That's a slick knife. How did you seal up the narrow end of the socket? And I'd definitely call that an eating fish with those big sharp pointy teeth!

Very nicely done. I like the drawings too.

Hello everyone! This is an 8" santoku I just finished. It was forged from 1084 with a buffalo horn bolster, a stabilized spalted beech handle, and a copper pin. This is my first time working with buffalo horn and stabilized wood and both are interesting to work with. I figured I'd share how I forge and finish since everyone does things a bit different. I started with 8" of 1/4" x 1-1/2" 1084. I start by setting the shoulder and drawing down the tang. I think it was about 1-1/2" from the end. Next, I put the point on the bar, keeping the blade at 1/4"

Hello everyone! This is an 8" santoku I just finished. It was forged from 1084 with a buffalo horn bolster, a stabilized spalted beech handle, and a copper pin. I am raffling this off for $10 a chance with a total of 40 chances. If you would like to buy a chance, send $10 for each chance with your full name and mailing address via a personal payment at PayPal.me/BobOuelletteJr.

This is 100% flat on the right side of the blade. I'm still trying to figure out if that's the best geometry for how I like to use it, but we'll see. It makes perfect 90 degree cuts if I use even a slight bit of pushing or pulling. Thanks! There aren't serrations. It's probably due to reducing the image size. Here's a larger picture and a picture of my grinder. http://imgur.com/a/RngnCYN The grinder is a Pheer with a 2 HP 220V motor and a VFD. It wasn't the cheapest option, but I didn't want to buy anything twice and the VFD is incredibly handy.

Thanks Alan! I'm finally making the progress in skill and quality I should have made years ago.