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Bob Ouellette

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Everything posted by Bob Ouellette

  1. Did you do any forging after you welded it or is it strictly stock removal after that?
  2. 1 cubic inch sounds pretty small. Maybe 2 cubic inches sounds good though.
  3. What about have a specified starting dimensions? Everyone starts with the same size material and does the best they can in whatever style they choose.
  4. It's the only way that most of us can be sure of our heat treatment. I didn't have any rope, but I hacked up a bunch of 2x4s and small trees trying to take over my raspberries and it was still shaving sharp.
  5. The level of finish wasn't very high. No polish, rough handle. It passed though!
  6. Hey all. I just completed the destructive ABS performance test with a knife I made, just to see if I could do it ( I have no aspirations for the ABS). I was thinking about how before I had a grinder and every blade took much longer and involved quite a bit more physical labor, I'd try to finish every blade I made as best I could. I didn't want that extensive amount of time to feel wasted if a blade broke or didn't do what I needed it to do. After I got my grinder and made a few blades, time wasn't as much of an issue because the effort to get to different steps was so much less. Now, I have n
  7. Thanks! Who was your teacher? That sounds like an incredible pain, not that the torch method isn't a pain itself.
  8. The recipient of my 8" chefs knife I made recently asked if I can make a knife with a black blade I have a couple ideas of how to do it, but I don't know what's best. I could do a baked on oil finish, like seasoning a cast iron pan or one of any number of recipes of hot blueing. What are your thoughts?
  9. Thanks Alan! It really is a whole other level! Not only do they have to match flat, you have to bend them and then twist them so that everything matches and is level throughout the scroll. A major headache and I have no idea how they did it without torches.
  10. The large scroll is 5 or 6 parts forged and welded together. The pair of scrolls was 2 pieces.
  11. Thanks Alan. I plan on having individually adjustable burner valves, so I'll put the inlet in after the pipe turns down towards the burner.
  12. This is a curved fireplace screen I started when I was in school, about 10 or 12 years ago. I was reorganizing my shop and got tired of the unfinished pieces laying on the floor, so I started working on it again when I refilled my oxygen bottle. I figured I'd share the large, non knife related project I've been spending time on. The scrolls are forged flat, then bent and twisted on a form to ensure that they curve consistently over the entire piece. I have a bit more tweaking and some small pieces to do before assembly.
  13. I'm planning on building a forge that will have an adjustable chamber size. I'm planning on having 2 ribbon burners. The first will always run when using the forge and the second will be turned on whenever the chamber is opened up for larger projects. A hard fire brick will be used to adjust the size of the chamber. My questions are, first, what is the best way to infect the fuel? Second, what size openings should I cast into the burner? I'm going to use a blower mounted under the forge table to force air into the burners. The burners will be about 3" wide and maybe 7" or 8" long.
  14. I think my best piece is this 8" chef's knife. It's 1084 with a buffalo horn bolster and dyed and stabilized maple burl handle.
  15. I love that guard! That's a good looking forging, too.
  16. Thanks, Rob! No problem! I just found out a sujihiki is a double beveled version of the yanagiba.
  17. Thanks Alan! I'm going to clamp it between plates immediately after quenching. It's a practice blade made for a left handed person. Yanagibas are single bevel blades with a hollow ground on the opposite side of the bevel.
  18. Nothing has ever made me want to avoid inlay more If this knife was for me, I'd make the handle a bit shorter, but who knows what the end user would find most comfortable.
  19. Thanks! I like trying new things with handle shapes. I think the birds head works well with European style blades. As for the jeweler's saw, I'm going to avoid trying to cut through such thick material. I'm certain that played a part in it.
  20. A while back someone asked if I could make a yanagiba for them. Having never made anything that long before, I told them I needed time to practice the shape (as well as get comfortable heat treating stainless, but one thing at a time). So this is my left hand practice blade from 1084. First, I drew the blade out to have an idea of how much material I'm going to need. I'll usual trace out a copy to use as a forging guide. I started with about 10 inches of 1/4 x 1. I shouldered about 1 3/4 for the tang and forged in the single bevel 4 from the heel before tur
  21. Thanks guys! Joshua, I think my brain was shutting down for the night and didn't want to proof read. I'm using my phone and sometimes extra words sneak their way in. I fixed it in the post.
  22. Here's another update! I cut the slot in the buffalo horn bolster with a jeweler's saw. Not the most fun by itself, but my blade snapped on the down stroke and I put the broken end of the thick blade through my fingernail. So after cutting and filing the hole to fit the tang, I drilled out and slotted my block of dyed maple burl. It had a nice, snug, tap it on with a light hammer fit, do I decided to drill the rivet hole. After drilling, I fit the copper rivet and tapped it into place. Everything was tight, so I decided to forego epoxy and just leave it with the mechani
  23. I'm glad you understand because I haven't been able to find an example. I think my forging has improved since I've done a blade with a ricasso.
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