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Bob Ouellette

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Everything posted by Bob Ouellette

  1. This is 100% flat on the right side of the blade. I'm still trying to figure out if that's the best geometry for how I like to use it, but we'll see. It makes perfect 90 degree cuts if I use even a slight bit of pushing or pulling. Thanks! There aren't serrations. It's probably due to reducing the image size. Here's a larger picture and a picture of my grinder. http://imgur.com/a/RngnCYN The grinder is a Pheer with a 2 HP 220V motor and a VFD. It wasn't the cheapest option, but I didn't want to buy anything twice and the VFD is incredibly handy.
  2. Thanks Alan! I'm finally making the progress in skill and quality I should have made years ago.
  3. I finally grew up and got myself a 2x72 grinder. This is the first knife I finished on it. It's a left handed santoku forged out of 1084. It has a bronze bolster with a curly maple handle.
  4. That looks really nice. How thick did it start out, and how thick did it end up?
  5. A decent set of dial calipers aren't that expensive. You don't have to spend $100 for Starrett and they're super handy.
  6. Very clean and well done. What sizes did you start out with for your mark? Does it read backwards on the other side?
  7. Almost! I'm a machinist professionally, so there are a bunch of little things, along with maturing and being patient and not trying to take a shortcut have really improved my knives.
  8. That is a very interesting video, thanks for sharing!
  9. Thanks @Joël Mercier. I have to go to work today to pick up some paperwork, so I'm going to use our 20" disk sander to add that slight hollow.
  10. Hi all, I forged my first chisel ground blade, a chef's knife, is there any noticable difference in the heat treatment? I'm wondering about the possibility of warping in one direction or another due to the asymmetrical geometry. The knife in question, in case anyone wants a peak.
  11. I took the day off work to forge and file a couple of blades. There's the chef's knife I posted a WIP for and left handed chef's knife for myself.
  12. I like the look of the folder, personally. I think the elk would look good on it.
  13. I'm super jealous of that double horn anvil!
  14. Are you planning on doing any work on them before heat treatment? Also, do you have any specific designs, sizes, or styles you're looking for?
  15. You can see my most recent piece here. What level of grinding are you looking for? I typically forge the bevels into my blades, but I could do a simple clean up or complete the rough grinding. Here is a post with a rough forging (no grinding yet).
  16. If you're looking for HC forged blanks, roughed out, or heat treated, that's something I'm able and willing to do.
  17. Thanks guys! I think my life as a machinist has helped a bit with fit and finish. @Brian Dougherty I hope we both stick around for quite a while. @Alan Longmire I was thinking about that hammer in a few weeks ago. It had to have been 13 years ago this year. I doubt this one can cut thinner, but it sure is a lot more comfortable to use! I still use all of the utensils I won on a regular basis. Only the ice cream scoop isn't aging well.
  18. I haven't forged or finished anything in quite some time, so I'm pretty proud of the way this one turned out. There's a small defect I couldn't polish out, but it doesn't affect the function at all. It's easily my best piece to date. 1084, brass, and cocobolo with a through tang.
  19. If you have files, what you can do is run hollows in the bevels you want to create and file down to them. Don't grind too much though. Essentially what you're doing is making the filing easier and faster because there's less material to remove. It'll save your arms and files a bit.
  20. Thanks Alan. I actually did hardly any correction for banana curvature. Without a power hammer, I try to be most efficient in the direction I move the steel.
  21. Hi everyone, it's been a while since I've been active on the forum, so I thought I'd post a WIP to reintroduce myself. It's good to be back! I started with 8" of 1/4" x 1 1/2" of Aldo's 1084. I began by shouldering 2" and drawing down the tang. On my last attempt, I didn't have enough material at the heel of the blade, so I upset the bar to give it a good 90 corner. Then I tapered the bar before putting the point on it. I use the cross peen of my hammer to begin forging the bevels. I start in the middle of the blade and work my way to the edge. After that, I smooth out the bevels and correct any bends, working my way from tip to heel. More pictures to come as the work progresses.
  22. Thanks Alan! I'm glad to see you've kept things going while I've been away Steven, that sounds interesting about tapering before putting a point on it. I'll have to give it a shot with the next blade I forge.
  23. Hi all, I'm finally getting back into forging and bladesmithing after far too long. I'm curious about when other smiths forge in the various features of a blade. I typically forge the tang first, followed by tapering the point. Next I forge the profile and taper the thickness at the same time. Lastly, I forge the bevels keeping the desired profile as I do instead of precurving the blade.
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