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Karl B. Andersen

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Everything posted by Karl B. Andersen

  1. Go to the craft section of Wal Mart and buy the 9x11 sheets of white felt. They cost $.25 each. Cut 'em up and have years of pads for a couple bucks.
  2. I do that to keep the die perpendicular to the tang. The stance is crucial. And make sure your hat is on backwards.
  3. Threading a tang is as low tech as it gets. Stupid simple. Determine the size "screw" threads you want. I use a 10-32 on most of my knives. A 10-32 screws measures about .190". I grind my tang square to .200. Then, grind the corners off to create an octagon. Measure across those new facets to .200". Slowly roll the corners off to make it round. Thread it. When you get done it should look like a screw:
  4. There is no reason to not just thread the tang. It's much easier than attaching foreign objects to it.
  5. At the risk of sounding cliche, I noticed Gary Mulkey's reply after I posted mine. They are very similar in nature and from people who give rather than look to receive. My biggest fun since joining is to teach and instruct at hammer-ins. That's what being a member is to me, and why I find the ABS so valuable.
  6. The cross section of people in the ABS is no more different than the cross section of people on the street. There are gems and there are dick heads. You'll find some of each in the ABS. It should be no surprise.
  7. If you think that membership "......is all about the stamp", you've missed the point entirely. A low level evening on the town or a steak dinner for two can easily cost you 60 bucks. A full tank of gas is 50 bucks. Organizations don't run for free. My circle of incredibly close dear friends went from minuscule to enormous in a matter of a few years. The people and friendships I now share are my benefits. It seems too many people want something FROM the groups they're members of for their dues. I find out on a daily basis what I can contribute TO the organization and its members. What I get personally from my participation in the ABS and the other members far, far outweighs any cost on my part - which is next to nothing.
  8. That is Ringed Gidgee. 3rd most dense wood on the planet.
  9. No, that's 324 layer tight single twist.
  10. I start with 3/8" 1095 and about .270" 410. 1 5/8" wide. I want to stay at welding heat as long as I can, so I draw it out in small increments. This increases migration zones and visual effect. I feel it also helps insurance of homogeneity. A knife like this would have started at about 3 inches long.
  11. Thanks, Joshua. The undulations are from my drawing dies when drawing out the billet. The steel is 410 and 1095. I'm not a fan of 416 when forging. The sulfur - which makes 416 machinable, can get you in trouble.
  12. Hope ya'll had a great Thanksgiving holiday. There aren't too many knives I build that I do not thoroughly enjoy, but I really do like the mid-range sized knives in the 6-8 inch length. This is a 7 1/2" San Mai S.O.B. with a twisted wrought iron guard and a stabilized chunk of Minnesota Black Ash Burl for a handle. Built in full take-down fashion.
  13. Had a great day today. Should have four good ingots in the morning.
  14. Myself and a good friend are leaving for Ric Furrer's on Sunday for a week of learning to make Wootz. Wish me luck and I hope to be making some Wootz knives in the near future.
  15. Now just keep on adding to it and you can have a forging "station" that you can roll anywhere you want around your shop:
  16. I just did another one nearly like it, but just a little LARGER diameter. I gave it 14 twists. My twister runs 28 RPM. So, 30 seconds.
  17. No sir - no torch used on this one. I just heated in the forge. Keep in mind that from the time I pull it from the forge until it is completely twisted in less than one minute. And it's over an inch in diameter, so it holds its heat for that long with no problem.
  18. Kris, it is done at a welding heat. Great attention is paid during the layering process to do everything possible to ensure all welds are consistent and secure. Done properly, when it comes time to twist, we are not twisting a bunch of independent layers, but we are twisting ONE! piece of steel with alternating properties.
  19. They are not expensive. The two I have cost me about 35 bucks 10 years ago. (Maybe 50 today). I still use them on almost every knife. So they cost me $3.50 a year. Pretty cheap for quality equipment.
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