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Karl B. Andersen

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Everything posted by Karl B. Andersen

  1. This stuff is so hard to figure! It's heavy! Shipping will kill us! The best way to go about it, I think is to ship in the flat rate packages. $7.00 for all you can get in it. I just sent two guys 50 pounds each, Shipping was only $7.00 for 50 pounds! Your 1/2" by 3 1/2" stuff is 5 pounds for a piece 11" long. I'd have to have $15.00 for a single piece to make it worth my while, and YOU pay the shipping. If you want to make it worth the while for both of us, buy 50 pounds at $2.00 a pound and I pay the shipping and you end up with a BUNCH! of wrought iron to play with for a long time! This stuff doesn't grown on trees, and I'm not gonna go into here what I had to do to get this stuff! I have a fair supply, and I'm going to take out what I want for my own use. When the other stuff is gone - it's gone. Get what you can afford. I'd suggest getting 50 pounds. Let me know what I can do for you. Maybe this will still leave us up in the air, but I know I just cut up and boxed 100 pounds of this stuff and it's a LOT of work. I have to build a box that fits inside the Post Office's package. I sent about 70 pounds out to Bill Burke in Montana, and when he got it, it was 1/2 gone! The package fell apart despite how well I wrapped it! That's why for larger amounts I have to build a box. It's just not a cut and dried project. So, back to where we were, send me, say, $20.00 and I'll send you a piece of the 1/2 X 3 1/2 so you can see what you want. After that, if you like it, if I were you, I'd get 50 pounds! I can sell 50 pounds maybe 20 times and then I'll be done.
  2. I'm in central Illinois. The Post Office works!
  3. Let me tell you what I've got. I have 3/4 round. 1 inch round. 1 inch square. 1 1/4 square. 1 1/2 square. 1/2 by 3 1/2 flat. 3/4 by 3 1/2 flat. 7/8 by 4 flat. You're either gonna have to have a forge to heat it up and beat it flat or a decent band saw to cut it to size.
  4. I've got to put those miles somewhere in my mind where they make sense! Guess I didn't ever consider how big Texas really is. When I did my Intro To Bladesmithing the two instructors were Bailey Bradshaw and Bruce Fuller. Both Texicans! Fuller was a hoot! I gotta get off this computer. Went to the Chicago Custom Knife Show today and I'm wore out! Later. KBA
  5. Chuck, I'm in central Illinois. Was this young fella's name Jeff? Sort of a lanky blonde kid? Ed had a nice young apprentice out there this summer. Was rather helpful, actually. As I recall, he was from Texas. The only time I ever stepped foot in Texas was when I did my Intro course in the ABS at Washington Arkansas. When I was on my motorcycle somewhere out in Wyoming this Summer, I ran into a nice couple on their motorcycle and we got to talkin'. They told me that if you live in Texas, when you hit the state line you're half way home! Is that true? Karl (I couldn't resist putting this picture in! I don't have much sheep horn, but maybe you can see in the middle knife I put some black sheep horn as the but cap!)
  6. Michael, I have all the wrought iron could can use. Any dimension! Just ask. Karl
  7. Thaks. Ed Fowler taught me that out at Willow Bow.
  8. I'm not a mettalurgist, and I don't pretend to be! I'll make that VERY clear. I wish the attached pictures had been taken to show the different hardening zones in these knives. I just attended Ed Fowler's Willow Bow Ranch "Seminar of the High Preformance Blade" in June and this is the heat treating style I learned. The cutting edge is heated by torch and edge quenched three times in a very specific manner in direct relation to MANY other preceeding steps. I must also mention that each blade goes through about 15 different thermal cycling stages. (It takes me 9 days to make a blade!) Anyway, that bottom edge is a very refined grain structure. Then there is that middle section you refer to that is damascus-like in appearance. That is sort of a "transition zone" from the heardened area to the untreated spine. It really shows coarse grain structure. In the close-up of the ricasso area, look toward the front 1/4" of the ricasso and you can see a very fine grain structure of the hardened steel. Right above/behind it is that trasition zone. Look at the close-up of the test blade and you can see that when it FINALLY! broke, it broke right at the transition zone/harden zone mating. By the way, that blade cut until I had blisters on my hand, NEVER chipped out on the edge flex, and didn't break until the 8th 180 degree bend! (180 degree bend means parallel with the floor on one side of the vise to parallel with the floor on the other side of the vise! 8 times.) That's all I can add to this topic. Karl
  9. I havew an AMAZING amount of wrought iron for sale. Made in 1903. Just about every dimension you can imagine! Below are two examopkes. One is a simple etching in ferric chloride after polishing and the second one is a really deep etch and bluing. Let me know. Karl@kbaknives.com
  10. Glad to be here! This'll be my first post - if you'll let me hang around! My latest 5160 forged hunter. I forge my stuff down from 1" stock and find that all that thermal cycling results in a tougher blade down the line. This one is with and elk brow tine handle with a buffalo spacer and butt cap.
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