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Karl B. Andersen

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Everything posted by Karl B. Andersen

  1. Thanks for the advice, Ric. I ALWAYS!! give you credit in any San Mai discussion.
  2. This one really took me by surprise. I saw this piece of Oak on Chuck Bybee's place and grabbed it - and I am glad I did! Every step of the way in all directions around this handle the material continually changes to something else. It's Oak. Just oak. But it is one of the nicest pieces of handle material I've put on a knife bar none. The San Mai is 1095 and 420, and the take-down guard is hot-blued mild steel - from the junk yard. :eek: I've also tossed in a picture of the blade before I etched it to illustrate how the San Mai jacket - when you nail the heat just right - acts a bit like clay to influence some hamon activity. Hope you enjoy this:
  3. Another one for 8-Q. Hot-blued Ws 1095/15N20. stainless guard and Ironwood gripper:
  4. Nothing special, here. One that I've shown before a few weeks ago - I think. Just did a couple better photos today. A W1 Brute de Forge with Paper Micarta scales and bullseye pins:
  5. I'll post some knives I'm taking to Atlanta here as I get them done. I still have a bit of hot-bluing to do on some, so they will get added in the next few days. Here is the first one mostly completed: I did a kerosene weld on a stack of .090" 15N20 for the blade, which, from preliminary testing, is going to be great. The guard is 416 and the take-down handle is Ebony.
  6. I agree, Alan. Very cool knife.
  7. Sorry to hear that, Michael. I enjoyed our visit last year. Good luck on your new house. Get everyting straightened out this year and we'll see you in 2014.
  8. Good thinking, Scott. Yes, I think we should all be prepared to make an appropriate donation right away for some edibles/victuals. And donate for the outhouse as well. No reason for you to be out-of-pocket for anything. Do you have a fridge in the shop or garage?
  9. You are possibly talking about the store-bought two part epoxy in the easy tubes? Use a fiberglass resin epoxy like West system and it's almost water thin when mixed.
  10. I see the term "San Mai" used often when guys say they've made a San Mai knife and in fact all they did was make a three layer forge weld of, say, Damascus and 1084, or maybe a tool stel core with 15N20 on the sides, etc. All of those components are hardenable. That is not San Mai as the term is used in cutlery. San Mai generally refers to knives with the hard steel hagane forming the blade's edge and the iron/stainless forming a jacket on both sides. In stainless versions, this offers a practical and visible advantage of a superb cutting edge of modern Japanese knife steel with a corrosion resistant exterior. In professional Japanese kitchens, the edge is kept free of corrosion because knives are generally sharpened on a daily basis. More expensive san mai knives have a similar quality, containing an inner core of hard and brittle carbon steel, with a thick layer of soft and more ductile steel sandwiched around the core so that the hard steel is exposed only at the cutting edge. Nowadays stainless steel is often used for Japanese kitchen knives, and san mai laminated blade construction is used in more expensive blades to add corrosion resistance while maintaining strength and durability. The idea behind this is a corrosion resistent and non-hardenable exterior with a simple carbon steel core.
  11. A little better view of the Bog Oak:
  12. A little something I've got made up for Blade Show 2013. A San Mai Fighter. Not only is the 1095 and 420 stainless San Mai pretty dramatic, but the handle is made from Stabilized Ancient Bog Oak. It has been carbon dated at 5460 years old! Here's the description from the fellow from whom I obtained it: These are blocks of Bog Oak from the Ukraine. Very dark black and charcoal coloring with a nice metallic luster. Included with each block you will receive a hard copy of the carbon dating report for this 5460 year old Bog Oak. This is some of the best quality Bog Oak I have ever seen. Bog Oak are old oak trees that settled into the muck in the bottom of waterways thousands of years ago. As it sits in the muck the wood absorbs minerals and turns darker colors. Usually the oldest pieces are the darkest.
  13. Yes - I used clay to ntentionally influence the hamon. Yet, there were some random areas of "rogue" hamon not anywhere near my clay. I'm saying that I enjoy this activity from the very shallow hardening steels.
  14. 1. Scott Roush (willing host of the horde) 2. Dion Grethen 3. Nate Runals 4. John Page 5. Jason Mather (and potentially a buddy) 6. Karl B. Andersen
  15. This guy sent his own piece of Gidgee from Australia for me to use on his knife. I wish a had a whole box of this stuff. The blade is W2 and the take-down fittings are stainless. I like it when W1 or W2 sort of "sneak" in their own little bits of hamon quite unexpectedly. There are at least 6 pieces of hamon on this side that were a complete surprise.
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