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Karl B. Andersen

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Everything posted by Karl B. Andersen

  1. That's the take-down finial. Unscrew that and the knife disassembles.
  2. Well, I am apparently about 1 year back on my knife orders. A good customer of mine came up to my table last year at the Janesville, Wisconsin, Badger Show with a drawing of an Elmer Keith knife, and asked me if I'd make my rendition of it. I just got it done, and we're only five days from the next! Badger Show. (Just in time for delivery!) It's not a knife for everyone. In fact, I wasn't sure I even wanted to do it. At first glance, it looks like a brick with a handle on it. But, I went ahead and proceeded with the project regardless. I am amazed that I actually, along the way and right up to this point, acquired a bit of affinity for the knife designed for Elmer Keith by Gil Hibben. It's actually called the Elmer Keith Skinner. From Wikipedia: Elmer Merrifield Keith (March 8, 1899 – February 12, 1984) was an Idaho rancher, firearms enthusiast, and author. Keith was instrumental in the development of the first magnum revolver cartridge, the .357 Magnum, as well as the later .44 Magnum and .41 Magnum cartridges. Keith was a prolific writer, writing both books and magazine columns. During the 1950s and 1960s, he was especially well known for his regular monthly columns he wrote for Guns & Ammo magazine, and American Rifleman typically exploring the performance of the latest new gun offerings, especially those firing large, heavy bullets pushed to high velocities. In fact, the Elmer Keith Skinner was given in the 1960s as a premium for a subscription to Guns and Ammo magazine. :eek: As I researched this knife, I began to discover that it had/has quite a following and any of the originals are highly sought. And Hibben Knives still, to this day, has this knife as one of the most sold knives from the company. Do a quick Google search on Elmer Keith Knife and click on IMAGES to see many originals and custom renditions. As an aside, Elmer Keith, who spent most of his life in Idaho and Utah, had a hunting cabin in the mountains. When they cleared out the cabin after he died, they found an Elmer Keith Knife in the cabin that had seen PLENTY! of use in all of his hunting and outdoor activities. So, I was asked to build this knife as an Andersen Forge Take-down. Damascus blade - 1095/15N20. Hot-blued fittings and Stabilized figured Walnut. Not something we see often around here. I hope you all appreciate my efforts creating my rendition of a cutlery icon:
  3. Agreed, Scott. Awsome knife there, Cody. Homerun.
  4. Thank you, Mr. Knickmeyer. And everyone else, as well. Beautiful knife. Remarkably sharp margins on the migration zone, I thought it was a nickel barrier layer. Good work. Hank
  5. Ray - fantastic stuff there friend! I am looking forward to seeing you again. I hope I can remember to bring you a little gift.
  6. It's nice to get something forged up, especially in a new shop. Congratulations. As regards the use of the word "San Mai", it doesn't simply mean a three piece affair of two different steels. Forging together two carbon steels does not necessarily mean the same thng as San Mai. San Mai generally refers to knives with the hard steel hagane forming the blade's edge and the iron/stainless forming a jacket on both sides. In stainless versions, this offers a practical and visible advantage of a superb cutting edge of modern knife steel with a corrosion resistant exterior. More expensive san mai knives have a similar quality, containing an inner core of hard and brittle carbon steel, with a thick layer of soft and more ductile steel sandwiched around the core so that the hard steel is exposed only at the cutting edge. Nowadays stainless steel is often used for Japanese kitchen knives, and san mai laminated blade construction is used in more expensive blades to add corrosion resistance while maintaining strength and durability. Anyway, welcome to Minnesota! Maybe you could make it up to Scott Roush's place in June. See the events forum.
  7. Ric, I thought of you almost every step of the way. I Had this big block of 420 someone had given to me 3-4 years ago and finally forged it down to use on this one. Then, after a long search, I was actually able to come up with a few 1/4" thick bars to use in some future projects. You are not confused, you are correct - I was in Illinois, in fact, only about 3 hours south of Janesville. This past October, I moved my entire operation north to near Warba, Mn, out in the sticks. Rather remote, in today's world. -26 this morning. See you in Janesville.
  8. I think that is the layer of 1095 where the carbon defficient 420 stainless has sucked most, if not all, of the carbon out of the carbon rich 1095. This, in essence, besides a few of the other alloys, renders the top skin of 1095 mostly just raw iron. Thus, it etches out differently than the other components. I could see 5 distinct zones of migration as I traveled through the layering.
  9. A little something I worked up for my next show in Little Rock in two weeks. 1095/420 San Mai:
  10. I really have no idea. I've been running that burner for maybe four years. I use a 100 gallon tank. 1 fill lasts 7-8 months.
  11. Yes - this is the picture of the exact burner I am using in the 12 inch forge. This was in my old shop, and I have shortened it some, but still the same basic assembly. I use it in both forges.
  12. It's always been a struggle to properly and evenly heat longer blades with my 12 inch forge. So, I lengthened one. Rather than just go larger in diameter and vastly increase the volume to heat, I used the same 12" body but welded in 6 inch webs to effectively lengthen the heat zone. Now my Bowies and Fighter get heated right. Here's the constructed forge body: And here is the forge AFTER! it has been running at welding temp for 15+ minutes. It's lined with 2" ceramic blanket and heavily coated with Satanite. 1" wool on the floor covered with 4" of clay cat litter to catch flux. 2" wool in the ceiling:
  13. Don't see a handle like THAT! everyday! Sweet, Peter.
  14. Troy, check out this video to better explain this knife:
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