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Everything posted by will52100

  1. Very nice, love the head's shape. I take it you did a wrapped and welded construction? Mild steel body and high carbon bit? What did you use for an eye drift? I've been wanting to do a few axes, but haven't had the time to figure out how to do a drift for them. I'm wanting to stay close to factory type eye shape so that a future user could replace the handle without too much work or having to have a completely custom handle made.
  2. Thanks, I got it ordered from McMastar-Carr. I did have to order a little over a foot more than I needed, but I can always use good high carbon steel. I generally like using 5160 for bits in my tomahawks. There no worries about the extra going to waste. Then again I've been wanting to try a sword, may have to give it a try. I think if I lived to be 200 I might get all the projects I'd like to do rite now done. Thanks
  3. I found what I needed at McMaster-Carr, thanks. The thickness I at NJSB was .375, was needing .313. Never worked with 80CRV2, though from looking at the specs it most likely would be fine. It's a leaf spring on the linkage for a Clay Spencer in line treadle hammer, main job is to take up shock when jumping on the treadle. Was surprised to find McMaster had 5160, but then they also had the bushing stock and turnbuckle I needed, I just don't do business with them often. Thanks, Will
  4. Anybody have a source of 5160 flat bar, 5/16" thick, by 3" wide, by about 18+" long? This is for a treadle hammer I'm building. All I've been able to find is 1/4" stock. I'd rather not use a used truck spring, besides not knowing 100% that it's 5160, there's no telling about stress fractures or how many miles are on it. Also my plan is to forge the end into an eye instead of welding a pipe for a pivot, and then heat treat the whole thing. Thanks
  5. AHH, now I get it. Hopefully this fall or winter I'll have a go at it. Provided I can find ore around here. Thanks
  6. Good choice on the KMG, the only negative I can say is they come unpainted. Not a big deal, mine's got a nice patina on it, but wish I'd taken the time to paint it before setting it up and using it, but I was in a hurry. Know of one that someone blued. Oh, and grease the bearings, mine come ungreased as Beumont found that ungreased bearing last slightly longer than greased ones in lab test. Of course without grease there loud as can be, a couple shots of grease shuts them up. My first real grinder was a Coote, still have it mounted and still use it. But the KMG is my work horse.
  7. Good reading material, thanks. I've got the dvd "ore to axe". I like how they showed the process, but how do you know when to stop adding fuel/ore? I've got a couple more weeks out on the water, will do some reading and see if I can get my head around it. Thanks
  8. I've been reading throughout the post here, but still only have a vague idea of where to start. Seems simple enough, if time and effort consuming. Anybody got any decent links, or books on small scale iron smelting? I'm primarily interested in making small batches of iron, I would also like to learn how to carbonize iron into steel for cutting edges. Would really like there to be a decent book to read as I work overseas and if I could understand the process I might be able to make some progress. Or if theres a place to take a class on it? Thanks
  9. Looks good, how's it cut? The basic knives can sometimes be difficult, but simple clean lines and classic shapes are always a pleasure to see.
  10. Is the 6 1/2" round or square? 6 1/2" square 16" long sounds perfect laid on it's side as a sword smith or sawyer's anvil. I've got a 4 1/2" post anvil I did out of 4140 and it works great for some things, but I'd really like a rectangular block more like a sawyer's anvil.
  11. Not sure what exactly went wrong, may be that you simply tempered at too high a temp. I don't do a lot of 5160, but ones I do I temper small hunter sized blades at 350, and choppers at 365. It could be your oven is off. I used to use a toaster oven with a large chunk of 1/2" plate in it to even out the heating cycles and I used an oven thermometer to let me know what the oven was doing. The oven settings were about 80 deg. off what the thermometer showed it was actually doing. A good test is the brass rod test, sharpen and flex, if it stays flexed you went too soft, if it chips you nee
  12. Man that is awesome! Love how you did it, and how it turned out!
  13. be carfull of using a drill press as a mill. Most drill presses have bearings that are designed to take loads one way, up and down, where a mill has heavy bearings designed for side to side and up and down loads. Take light cuts and you should be OK, though don't be surprissed if the bearings wear out.
  14. I've got the Midas 1220. It has it's limits, but it does everything I need it too do. If I had it to do over again I'd go with the Granit model, mainly for the half nut and power feeds. I primarily use it for a precision drill press and for milling gaurds. If for no other reason than that it's been a time saver. I have used the lathe for odd jobs around the house, one of which was replacing the cheap pot metal hit a pine cone and they break mandrils on a Crapman lawn mower. I turned out steel ones and welded plates and spacers and no more 35$ broken mandrals. I've probably used the l
  15. Good looking press, like how compact it is.
  16. I'm not sure but with all new steel and pump and cylinder, I think I have around 1100$ in mine. I live way down south and it's hard to find 5" and bigger cylinders that are short enough to work. Same for the pump and motor and such. If I remember rite the clayborn press is about twice that, but then I didn't count my time a labor cost. Look around the internet, there are all kinds of press designs out there, and if you've got access to a welding shop there's no end to what you can build. The book on hydrolic press that the ABS sells is a must have and very informative.
  17. I can't remember the suggested pad size, but I'd probably go at least two feet deep and anchor bolt it down. The slab doesn't have to be supper dense, but it'll ad a lot of stability. You wouldn't believe how much better my 50 pounder runs with a slab under it.
  18. Nice work, one of these days I've got to learn how to forge tongs.
  19. I'd see if he could plug it in and see how it runs. If not and the price is rite, just make sure everything turns and it's not froze up and look on the frame for cracks and repairs. Also does it come with the original dies?
  20. A friend of mine has one and it is very well built. I had thought of buying one before commiting to building one. My personal preferance is, I don't like it. I don't care mainly for the foot control set-up and the automatic return. The main thing for me is that I leave the dies just wide enough apart that I can get the billet in, that saves time and makes things faster and easier. I like the clayborn style better and that's what I built. I guess if I put a hand control or maybe got used to it's operation I'd be OK with it. What it boils down to is personal preferance, all said and done
  21. No worries, I should have had mine built by now, but have to many irons in the fire. I hope next time I'm home to get it at least started
  22. Make sure you post pics when your done.
  23. It's not the end all be all, but for the money is very well made and I dought you'll regret it. If nothing else even if I had a KMG I wouldnn't get rid of mine. I don't know how you would grind a fuller, If I was to put a fuller in a blade I'd probably shape my surface grinder wheel or use my mill. A KMG is aan awsome machine and the price reflects it.
  24. I thought about that, especialy since I have a lathe and mill. I was thinking of two suports and a tire in the rear with a shaft and pillow blocks and a circular plate on front front for the pitman and the toggle arms. Then I came to my senses and realized that it'd be a lot simpler to mount the tire in fron and use one suport and mount the flywheel and pitman to the tire rim. KISS rulled out over enginering it, or over complicating it. I did find some 5/8 ID turn buckles to use as the lower links for ajustment. For the money I'd be hard pressed to make them myself when you take the time
  25. Sorry to hear of your problems with HF, I've dealt with them for nearly 20 years with mostly good results. They've lost and damaged a few iteams but have always made them good, including the ocasional damaged motor(motor still worked but had a dent or something) that they just sent a new one without wanting the old one back. Of course you have to read and understand the amp and horse power ratings or you could very easily wind up with an underpowered hunk of junk. The last piece of equipment I got from HF was a Milwakee chop saw for about the same price as an import. I would add that I'm v
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