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Jason Krantz

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Everything posted by Jason Krantz

  1. Love the proportions, That silver vine looks great. Can't wait to see more of the hamon and some close ups
  2. If it was beveled then there is not too much to worry about. I bet that thing could punch a hole thru 12 ga mild steel plate. Got a chance to play with it much?
  3. Cool hammer! I think that twist is awesome. But looks aside, if you welded that with a little 112v ac buzz box. which it looks like you did, and if you didn't put a heavy bevel on the shaft top. There will be VERY little penatration. I am just worried that if you hit something solid and that head shears off, it can pop straight back at you. I have a buddy with only one eye. He made a chipping hammer out of an old cold chisle and a piece of round stock, at home with an under powered welder. That was back when he had both eyes, and yes he was wearing PPE. I think that not only will another joint look more impressive but will also be a lot safer Sorry, I hate being the buzz kill
  4. Don, I would like to request a name change also. Please change it to my real name, Jason Krantz. Thank you very much!
  5. just got my power back on, been out since sunday night. That makes for a cold few days. 16" in Marysville and 15degF
  6. you pre drill your stump, set it in the hole, put a block of wood on the anvil face, then hammer it in.
  7. I know that I'm not Andrew, but if he can't get to you... I am also in the great north wet(I-5 ex.200ish)...My ASO is a 110lb stack of mild steel plates That POS suck the life right out of me. Are any of those 4140 blocks large enough to make a stake anvil from. If so what do you want for it?
  8. If water won't get it hard then brine and oil will not either. sounds like your spring tooth blade quenches just fine in H2O, but temper it right away! As for the lawn mower blades. try going a bit past critical temp then quenching in cool water. No pulling it out before its totally cool either. That might harden it up a bit. in really basic terms dealing with plain carbon tool steels quenching goes something like this. The higher the Carbon content the harder it can become. H2o will produce the hardest quench, brine a bit softer, oil being the softest. so in conclusion, if water won't get it hard then brine and oil will not either. try it again. Hopefully it hardens up! If not, at least it was good bevel practice :banghead:
  9. You could burn all day on a 5gal. tank. I honestly have never logged it I burn only a few hours at a time (at most) because thats all I can carve out for my self. My forge is HUGE, and I only refill every two weeks or so. That's with 5 or 6 good lond burns and maybe a few small ones. My guess is that you will get between 6-10hrs in a little can forge(sounds like a weather forcast ). Really, thats not bad for 12$ Mapp is way more$! Thrift store hair dryer is a good starter air sorce. less than 2$
  10. you may find that your dremel is a little underpowered to cut much. but with time it can be done. You will find that the same is true for sanding. I keep mine around for detail work, upgraded to an angle grinder for most other stuff. I tried using a torch for heat treating. It was pretty tuff getting an even heat on both sides and along the blade. but it can be done. You can also build a small HT forge. A little beancan gas one. Or a pile of charcoal on the dirt with a small lung powered blow tube You have the will, you will find a way!
  11. I stand corrected. I have never done it. But will try it soon. couldn't hurt
  12. I have never worked with SS so have stayed away from this one. My mass produced one have served me very well in a raft or kyak/salt or fresh. Skimming rappids or playing around at -90ft. I use a Gerber river shorty. Blunt end, single edge, 1/3 seration, about 3-4in blade, about 8in OA. I can strap it right to my BC or PFD. I have never had it use it in an emergency. But I used it get an abolone(sp?) once. When I started diving I looked at the crowbars they were passing off as knives, and thought 'how am I suposed to kick with that hanging off my calf'. So I just stuck with my Shorty that my uncle gave before my first river kyak trip with him. I like the shears idea. I think you can get them with SS rivets but the cost is higher
  13. Yes, edge quenching hardens the cutting edge and the hot spine draws the temper. It is a differential heat treat. So, no another tempering is not needed. About the grain thing, I do not know. I am still pretty new to this too.
  14. Fine work!! Looks as if you have been at it for years. Thanks for sharing
  15. Has it broke yet? Now that it is hard, did you temper it? My very first knife I did not not know to temper. Well, I thought that quenching was tempering. Till I set that hardend blade on a cold anvil. The next morning it was in two pieces. The next one (a lot of reading later) was forged from the larger half of the first. I did a edge quench in oil. My brother uses that little knife everyday. Sharpens it every month, no troubles.
  16. This is very true! That and most weld shops can't or won't heat treat something that large. I have heard of places that refurbish old anvils. but that was for collectors, so I can only imagine the price
  17. I have not ever used more than 2". But 3" couldn't hurt, if you can spare the mat and the room inside your forge. then coat everything in ITC-100. then I coat the bottom half with Bubble Alumina refractory link I have no trouble with flux eating my forge(cleaning often doesn't hurt either)
  18. That is a wonderful Athame. Simple and direct. Very nice lines and flow. :35: One of my next projects is one for my wife. She was a little upset when I made one for myself and not her Your wife (and Brighid) will be pleased with that one. Well done!!
  19. looks like a sound concept. That size I don't think you will need two burners. Use a door or a plug on the back pass thru when not in use, and a sliding fire brick door on the front. Barring any burner troubles you should have no issues welding in it.
  20. didn't get to weld that billet yet. Yes, they both harden. The saw blade pieces and the banding strip both quench in water fine too (no cracking). The saw pieces took a hit from my hammer laying flat with no trouble, but shatterd when I lifted an end and hit it again. The banding past those tests (I was getting concerned ) So I layed it on edge and hit it. split/cracked it right down the middle
  21. in one of my books the guy put his dull files in battery acid over night to sharpen them. Said it only work once and only gets them a little sharper. Any one heard of this or tried it?
  22. Heat treating is generally required for flexability and edge retention. And of course on a katana, the beauty of a hamon. But that will come with time and a lot of practice Also what steel are you using? How are you shaping the bevels? You have ony been working with black heat? What is your air sorce for your forge? Also you want it hotter than red. I'd say tinker with your forge and get a hotter fire. You may need a lager set up. I don't know what you have. I am a beginner and have only made a few smallish blades. But a set up that works well will save a lot of heartache, I know this for fact :banghead:
  23. Very nice!! I have got to make myself one of those
  24. No worrys about the rant! It is all good info. Good for all who scroung steel. I am not too worried about pattern at this point. A good weld and a billet that I can make a blade from is the goal. Any pattern that I get is bonus I will etch just to see
  25. Thanks a lot you guys. I have one billet stacked and ready to weld. We will see how it goes this weekend
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