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jdm61

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About jdm61

  • Birthday 06/17/1961

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    jdm61cc@aol.com
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    http://www.JMForge.com
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    St Petersburg, FL

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  1. W2

    I have a waki that I forged out a couple of years ago and never finished. I will try to remember what size of round I used.I am thinking 1 1/8 or 1 1/4. I did it on another guy's 100 pound Big Blu that was rather out of tune..
  2. W2

    Wes, I have both round and square that I bought from Don a number of years back when he had a lot. I would be willing to trade for some L6 assuming that you could swing that. Joe
  3. My buddy in Belgium has an small industrial rolling mill that has both rollers powered and is reversible and it works like a charm. With that said, the primary reason i would want a reversible mill is so that I could have the option of running a twisting fixture off the end of the shaft and be able to do both left and right hand twists.
  4. I saw that thread and sent John a PM. Haven't heard back from him yet. Are both rollers powered on his mill and can you reverse it? Thanks
  5. So is anyone making or selling a reasonably priced rolling mill? I know that someone out west is making a super duper one that will also twist up damascus bars, but I can't swing $6500.
  6. Kyle has a horizontal platen setup like a number of folks have built. Ray does use the Uncle Al grinder. I saw it in action at Batson's a couple of years back and it works as advertised. To me, the advantage of either of these systems over trying to freehand on the small wheel fork is that you can get your plunges done and flatten the blade at the same time, not to mention "hand sand" them lengthwise. The "Billy roll" attachment for the Burr King would work too, but only if you wanted to grind vertically with the point down. With that said, Burt Foster does his integrals with a regular platen that has a very rolled edge and IIRC from what he told me, some "registration pins" that act as a work rest to keep everything lines up.
  7. Geoff, another option might be a slightly modified version of the water cooled horizontal platen that Brian Fellhoelter designed for his KMG. I was thinking that since the top piece is removable, maybe you could set it up so that you could flip it around and have your regular small radius for plunge cuts on one end and a bigger radius for integrals on the other end, perhaps with "ears" on both side so that you could clamp a file guide to the tang and hit the same spot every time you ran the blade up onto the platen. IIRC, the one advantage of the Uncle Al machine/fixture is that you can raise and lower the steel platen insert so you can use different size small wheels for different knives.
  8. I would be more worried about it getting into the billet on the flats than the sides. When you weld,and grind, is there still enough filler on top to seal it up?
  9. Dang!! I don't even think that he can buy the stuff that he is making yet!!! LOL
  10. John, I think that a number of guys use what Sid Sudemeier calls "California drawing dies" which are flat dies with the edges beveled over, including the ends, but stillwith a nice flat spot in the middle, perhaps as much as 50% of the die.on the short width.
  11. So even if you went the route of just cutting flat tiles and grinding in the angled faces on the ends, it might still be a good idea to make them more rectangular like you do with the flip and leave them thick so you can work the welds while drawing it out to make the tiles "square" again on the surface of the bar? As for dry welding with foil, I have the standard stainless or iconel heat treat foil. How is that going to stand up to welding heat? I am assuming that you would weld as normal even with the foil by tacking the sides of the pieces together or using a sacrificial plate or both,
  12. Okay, you meant the "Ferry flip" and not the 90 degree flip you do to get W's. this raises another question. On a pattern like the one you posted. it may not matter so much that the pattern does not match up exactly from one side to another, but I can think of some, like the single 4 way radial W's starburst stuff that Mick Maxen from the UK and others do (wild 4 pointed burst with deep black straight 10xx steel filling in around the edges) where it would look better if it was matched up, especially at the tip and plunge cuts. Can you just say cut the tiles off flat and them maybe grind a 20 degree angle into the two ends of each tile that you want to weld up? Also, how do you flux, weld, etc to keep the weld lines between the tiles from showing up when you etch?
  13. Geoff, what do you mean when you say that you "flipped" the billet as a last step?
  14. Hey, Dirk. What was that big, furry creature next to the grinder that looked like it was ready to attack Claude?
  15. Thanks, Alan. I figured that every smith has to do at least one Musso sized knife and one long dueling bowie with a spanish notch at some point, so I did both at the same time.