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Everything posted by jdm61

  1. I have a waki that I forged out a couple of years ago and never finished. I will try to remember what size of round I used.I am thinking 1 1/8 or 1 1/4. I did it on another guy's 100 pound Big Blu that was rather out of tune..
  2. Wes, I have both round and square that I bought from Don a number of years back when he had a lot. I would be willing to trade for some L6 assuming that you could swing that. Joe
  3. My buddy in Belgium has an small industrial rolling mill that has both rollers powered and is reversible and it works like a charm. With that said, the primary reason i would want a reversible mill is so that I could have the option of running a twisting fixture off the end of the shaft and be able to do both left and right hand twists.
  4. I saw that thread and sent John a PM. Haven't heard back from him yet. Are both rollers powered on his mill and can you reverse it? Thanks
  5. So is anyone making or selling a reasonably priced rolling mill? I know that someone out west is making a super duper one that will also twist up damascus bars, but I can't swing $6500.
  6. Kyle has a horizontal platen setup like a number of folks have built. Ray does use the Uncle Al grinder. I saw it in action at Batson's a couple of years back and it works as advertised. To me, the advantage of either of these systems over trying to freehand on the small wheel fork is that you can get your plunges done and flatten the blade at the same time, not to mention "hand sand" them lengthwise. The "Billy roll" attachment for the Burr King would work too, but only if you wanted to grind vertically with the point down. With that said, Burt Foster does his integrals with a regular plat
  7. Geoff, another option might be a slightly modified version of the water cooled horizontal platen that Brian Fellhoelter designed for his KMG. I was thinking that since the top piece is removable, maybe you could set it up so that you could flip it around and have your regular small radius for plunge cuts on one end and a bigger radius for integrals on the other end, perhaps with "ears" on both side so that you could clamp a file guide to the tang and hit the same spot every time you ran the blade up onto the platen. IIRC, the one advantage of the Uncle Al machine/fixture is that you can rais
  8. I would be more worried about it getting into the billet on the flats than the sides. When you weld,and grind, is there still enough filler on top to seal it up?
  9. Dang!! I don't even think that he can buy the stuff that he is making yet!!! LOL
  10. John, I think that a number of guys use what Sid Sudemeier calls "California drawing dies" which are flat dies with the edges beveled over, including the ends, but stillwith a nice flat spot in the middle, perhaps as much as 50% of the die.on the short width.
  11. So even if you went the route of just cutting flat tiles and grinding in the angled faces on the ends, it might still be a good idea to make them more rectangular like you do with the flip and leave them thick so you can work the welds while drawing it out to make the tiles "square" again on the surface of the bar? As for dry welding with foil, I have the standard stainless or iconel heat treat foil. How is that going to stand up to welding heat? I am assuming that you would weld as normal even with the foil by tacking the sides of the pieces together or using a sacrificial plate or both,
  12. Okay, you meant the "Ferry flip" and not the 90 degree flip you do to get W's. this raises another question. On a pattern like the one you posted. it may not matter so much that the pattern does not match up exactly from one side to another, but I can think of some, like the single 4 way radial W's starburst stuff that Mick Maxen from the UK and others do (wild 4 pointed burst with deep black straight 10xx steel filling in around the edges) where it would look better if it was matched up, especially at the tip and plunge cuts. Can you just say cut the tiles off flat and them maybe grind a 2
  13. Geoff, what do you mean when you say that you "flipped" the billet as a last step?
  14. Hey, Dirk. What was that big, furry creature next to the grinder that looked like it was ready to attack Claude?
  15. Thanks, Alan. I figured that every smith has to do at least one Musso sized knife and one long dueling bowie with a spanish notch at some point, so I did both at the same time.
  16. A couple of my recent bowies. Both have forged W2 blades. The big knife has a 13 1/1 inch blade with a hamon, 1000 grit finish, forged wrought iron fittings, Sambar stag handle and a Paul Long sheath with Nile crocodile skin inlay. http://gallery.me.com/jmforge/100008/DSC_0129/web.jpg?ver=12590284270001 The "small" knife has an 11 inch blade with a Spanish notch, 600 grit hand rubbed finish, lightly cold blued 1018 fittings, Sambar stag handle and a Paul Long sheath with inlay from a VERY big ostrich. http://gallery.me.com/jmforge/100008/DSC_0138/web.jpg?ver=12590284440001
  17. Very nice, Dirk. You need to come to Gembloux this year even if it is as a visitor.
  18. Sorry for the picture, but I am still fighting with my camera and losing!! I made this one a little while back and tested it out on two feral hogs.......they were yummy. 5 inch forged W2 blade, 416 guard and buttcap, sambar stag handle, Treestump sheath. I cleaned up all nice a purty after testing it out,but since it is "used" I will let it go for a bit less. $250 gets your the whole shebang.....knife, sheath, zipper case, PayPal fee and USPS Priority Mail shipping to the Lower 48. Such a Deal!
  19. Sweet!!! I like that old school high layer count damascus!
  20. Sweet!!! I like that old school high layer count damascus!
  21. Very cool, sir!!!! Kind of like an ancestor of the German hunting swords. I can't wait to see what you bring to Gembloux.
  22. jdm61

    New Bowie

    Thank you, sir. That means a lot coming from you. This one was made for a martial artist and we decided on some rather specific design elements. It is light and fast for a 12 1/2 incher, has a narrow blade which helps and balances about 1/4 inch in front of the plunge cut, but it is still a 12 1/2 incher. I am not in great physical shape so I don't swing stuff around with the kind of authority than someone who proctices a lot would, but from my limited experience, 10 1/2-11 strikes me as the ideal size for a knife like this. The trick with a blade this size is not getting it moving so much
  23. jdm61

    New Bowie

    Thanks, Wade. i will say that bending 416 cold was a new experience.
  24. jdm61

    New Bowie

    This is my first attempt at an S guard. 12 1/2 inch W2 blade, 416 fittings, fileworked buttcap, sambar stag. Sorry for the bad picture, but I am fighting with the NEW camera.
  25. Geoff, I haven't even tried leatherwork, so i am using Paul Long for the real fancy stuff and Kenny Rowe for his pin lock and 4 position sheaths for field knives where the customer wants something special. For my smaller knives and users, I am using Steve Shepard, who does a fair amount of work for the Martin brothers and the "off the rack" pouch sheaths from Treestump. I have nothing but good things to say about all of them. The only thing that I have to do with the Treestump products is essentially build the knife to fit the sheath, but that is not a big problem because Mr. Kravitt males
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