Jump to content

cdent

Supporting Member
  • Content Count

    216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cdent

  1. It probably isn't what you're thinking, but a surprising lot of folks use a wood band saw to cut knife thickness metal. There's a bunch of info on friction cutting around. Basically, you buzz the teeth off any blade then heat from friction does the cut. I think if you go that route, you have to dedicate the saw to metal only and it's not really precision cutting. Be careful to clean up any wood dust that's in there because things can get pretty hot. Maybe still works out better to look into one of the portaband saws. Good luck with it, Craig
  2. It may not be what you're looking for, but you might consider one of the horizontal saws that are set up like a chop saw. Usually, they can be swung up vertical and locked to use like you are thinking. For cut off, if you have it set up, some of them you can walk away and do something else while gravity pushes the arm through the cut. Also, many of them have liquid cooling that can make a big difference in blade life. Prices can be very reasonable if you have time to hunt around for a deal. DoAll would be nice though.
  3. I like the lines of the top one and the positive looking grip. First thing I thought before reading your comments was camp machete. Maybe offer an option of less of a point just in case someone's thinking about a bunch of hacking away. Some folks might like a lanyard hole. Bet that would come in handy for spring turkey season, maybe with some kind of edge guard. Thanks for showing it, Craig
  4. One kind of subtle design theory that one of the high end grinder makers is using, I believe to manage that belt jump and "banana" effect is to put the tracking wheel closer bottom. Supposedly, that's where the belt is under more tension and responds better to tracking control than on the top where resistance against the platen may cause less tension on the part of the belt that's coming off the drive (tracking) wheel. Not picking on your design at all, just came to mind when you described your issues. I'd agree that stiffer and beefier couldn't hurt if you suspect flexing. Thanks again fo
  5. Just a thought, but can your design bring the two platen idler wheels closer together. A little shorter platen would probably cause less drag/friction, and you can get the belt to wrap with more contact percentage around the drive wheel. I've tried, but not an expert or pro, various ceramic tiles (no granite) for backing on the flat platen and I believe the thinness and possibly less friction of the various high heat glass may be a slight advantage. I haven't run into chipping or breakage. Mostly, I just wanted to mention that I appreciate you taking the time to share the project. Take car
  6. JJ, Appears fine, but I thought to mention and you probably would know that it may seem to perform very differently in a forge. I'd stick it in your forge and see if it performs like you hope. If it comes up just a tad short, you might consider a flare from one of the forge component vendors. Bet it'll work just fine, Craig
  7. Thanks for developing the topic Ric. I'm glad the Sarver unit is still available, and I'll keep a watch out for your updates here. Take care, Craig
  8. I believe there's a thread by Nick Wheeler on another forum, and I think Steve Culver has a tutorial on his website for that type of small wheel mod. to the KMG. It may be quicker and easier to build from scratch or go the KMG route than to try and adapt a basically two wheel style grinder. Hope you can cure that case of tool envy, Craig
  9. Very interesting idea, good to know there're viable options that are easily doable. I always assumed (I know) that the density of the investment needed vacuum. Maybe more flash or surface finishing without vacuum, but I never thought to try any other way. If someone prefers vacuum, the bay has occasional great deals on vacuum investment mixers, try 'whipmix'. They usually come with the mixing bowl and have a vibration 'arm' built in. Doesn't help with the casting part, but the vacuum tank concept is another great idea. Take care, Craig
  10. Since you're tearing it up anyway, maybe add in a water (hydraulic) hammer just before the filter. Congrats on the kitchen project. Almost done has to be a good feeling, those can be never ending. Craig
  11. Hi Geoff, Would you comment a bit more about the shock issues you were having that led you to hard line your return. Sorry if you had mentioned it before and I missed it. Were you also able to put in that hydraulic hammer that was mentioned in an earlier thread in front of the filter. Since you have a good cushion on the gpm side, could it be that you're developing more pressure than you're thinking. That's a good bit of motor, could it be turning more rpm's than the pump is rated for. I believe it's been sort of figured out that pressure is needed to push through the filter, but it wo
  12. A while back, I did a little bit of checkering with Dembart cutters, and they seem to work well. I picked up a 'jointer' from Brownells, and it turned out to be about the only way I (it's just me) could layout a nice straight starting line or keep some lines straight around curves. A lot of handle materials have excess that needs to be shaped away. Maybe practice on the actual material where you know it'll be ground off, but you can see if it's working ok. For me, practicing on soft wood was very frustrating, a lot of tearing. I couldn't get anything crisp so I couldn't tell if the practice wa
  13. Thanks Jokke. I'll keep a watch out for the new pictures. Craig
  14. Interesting topic and good find Ric. Jokke, does your steam method change the color of the wood, both raw and under your favorite finish. Do you get any color staining from darker woods to lighter ones. Just curious, now and then I luck into some interesting woods that are fresh cut. Thanks much, Craig
  15. Shucks, never met him, but I believe he was a great teacher with amazing things to offer. Heart felt condolences to his family and friends, Craig
  16. Thanks for showing the knife Karl. Fits in nicely with the bluing writeup you did down in 'fit and finish'. I see you can catch a bit of that chatoyance in your pictures. Gotta ask, does internal bolting mean 'I think I have some epoxy around here somewhere'. Nice work, Craig
  17. Just a guess, can't see how you're set up, but a .035 tip in a 3/4" tube can be set up as a standard venturi burner, which can move all the air that it needs. I believe a blown forge can be run at low psi, but it needs to flow a good volume of gas. Maybe try it without the mig tip. Also, there're tons of pics around with examples of blown burners which have some form or another of expansion chamber as part of their design. Even a standard 3/4" venturi burner may be a lot of burner for the size forge chamber. Good luck with the burner, Craig
  18. I looked at the Batson manual from the ABS. I believe it only discusses 'return line' filters, and seems to feel that in that application, there might pump starvation due to filter restriction. Good points, Craig
  19. Hi folks, I stand corrected, at least from what I can gather. I peeked back at a handy manual on the subject, and sure enough it's recommended to hook up the filter on the return line. My thought was to remove grit before it got to the pump, but maybe not. Take care, Craig
  20. Thanks Joe, I was wondering just on a general level, why filter the fluid after it's gone through the pump. Take care, Craig
  21. cdent

    Burns?

    There seems to be a concern that whatever heat source that causes a burn can persist. I can imagine damage radiating, but it would seem the temperature of the injured area would decrease quickly with or without help. For a typical shop burn, I'd guess the temperature of the injured area would be at or around body temperature with in seconds, either on its own or with the help of cooling. My feeling is that prolonged cooling would be more for pain control, but is there a 'rule of thumb' that would predict how much cold and how long to apply it would actually decrease the amount of injury.
  22. cdent

    Burns?

    Awe shucks, I kinda like this place. If one does a bit of looking around, you can easily sort the trusting advice. Rises to the top, consistently. Just supposing, Craig
  23. I think Chuck has a great idea for the base of your new post anvil. I was going to do something similar with sand also, but was able to use a bunch of old lead shot bags. You could easily rig up bolts or brackets on the sides of your post and base to use chain to pull the block down hard against that dense base. If you cinch the base and shaft tightly together, it'll act a bit more like a heavier anvil than just the block alone. You'll get a lot less ring out of the steel and you'll feel a lot more work getting done for each hammer blow. It'll also be a very compact package. Take care
  24. As a rookie, I like to watch the phase change to get a little idea if my hammering is smooth and even. I think I can see blips and wiggles in uneven steel as the glow passes through. For me it flashes by kind of quickly in lower carbon steel like 5160, but it's very exaggerated in something like W2, at least the way it looks to me. I usually don't need full darkness, just a dark background and something that's throwing a little shadow. It's part of getting lost in a blade for a little bit, Craig
  25. Maybe, consider other trades. Bet there're a few woodworkers in your neck of the woods that are on the look out for shop space. Might have a similar mindset, but less chance of stepping on toes. I know a local high end furniture maker who has three others renting different amounts of space/shop time, and he and his wife live in an upstairs apartment. You live in a great area. I have relatives that couldn't more than fifteen minutes straight south of you, Craig
×
×
  • Create New...